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3/11/2007 4:07:13 PM EDT
Has anyone ever tried using this stuff when sand/dirt is a real problem to contend with? It just leaves behind a good coat of Teflong on parts and is sold in the car parts dept of Wal-Mart.
3/11/2007 6:00:29 PM EDT
[#1]
I personally would not choose Liquid Wrench as a lube, it’s simply too thin. With all the solvents it contains, it would probably work better in a pinch as a cleaner.
3/13/2007 8:17:25 PM EDT
[#2]
I'd be afraid that it would penetrate a primer, resulting in a loud "CLICK" instead of "BANG"!
3/14/2007 2:43:06 PM EDT
[#3]
A lot of guys in my company used and liked Strikhold when they were in one of those hot, dry, dusty places.

Eezox is a dry lube I've heard good things about.

I just use the same lube I always do, and only apply it to the areas that actually rub when corrosion isn't an issue.  I do like the spray on dry lube for the lower receiver though.  Gets all the pins and springs lubed, without making a mess like trying to put a couple drops just were you want it can be.
3/14/2007 5:56:56 PM EDT
[#4]
i would stay away from a penatrating oil, its just to thin. i would use motor oil first.
3/28/2007 1:13:01 PM EDT
[#5]
I was experimenting with ways to rinse crud off the lugs and barrel the other day as I did not want to use brake cleaner. I got some liquid wrench and PB blaster. The LW was thinner, the PB kind of reminded me of breakfree spray. I put hoppes on the areas first, then the chamber brush, rinse with PB or LW, then boresnake.

It seemed to work good and I didn't feel like I was removing lubes from the pores of the metal. They both say they lube and protect. I used CLP afterwards in the usual lube areas.
3/29/2007 11:48:23 AM EDT
[#6]
The only LW product I would even think about using is the newerL4.  The MSDS shows that in contains esters, a decent base oil, ZDP for anti-wear, and a large amount of anti-corrosion additive.  Also, very low VOC so what you buy stays on the gun, and not in the air.

However, their very own Competition site shows that BF aerosol has better extreme pressure abilities than the L4.  600 hour corrosion protection is nice, though.

QUIB is right that most of the standard product (>60%) is solvent.
3/29/2007 2:25:20 PM EDT
[#7]
Well if it's got a lot of solvent in it then it should be good for cleaning, at least it's got to be better than brake cleaner to flush out the crap.
3/29/2007 6:18:18 PM EDT
[#8]
There is a world of SOLVENTS out there, but I have yet to find anything remotely superior to Slip 2000, for cleaning an AR, followed by NCBC, then lube with one of the lubes suggested and recommended for ARs. Cost may be a factor in purchase of lubricant, but HOW MUCH do you REALLY go through? Thirty year old single malt scotch at $100.00 a bottle would not be excessive, considering the amount needed to lubricate a rifle that can easily set you back $500.00 to $1,000.00, or $2,000.00 for some of the Barbied up models.

My suggestion is to restrict yourself to rifle or firearms dedicated lubricants, ideally AR specific or optimal lubricants, and leave the other products for non-critical use-such as door hinges. I have never had a lubricant failure when properly applied and item specific.  
3/30/2007 12:33:41 PM EDT
[#9]
I've heard of the slip stuff, hadn't seen it though, I even scan the cleaning stuff when I am ordering parts and the places I've gotten parts hasn't had any. I guess I'll have to google it or something.


I used LW and PB blaster strickly for flushing out the crap, I wipe it off afterwards and lube as usual. I can't see how that could do any harm, I use the typical gun cleaning stuff, the solvents are to get rid of the crap, mostly out of the chamber and lugs.

That's what I do anyway.
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