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Posted: 7/17/2006 3:52:08 PM EDT
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What are the best lead removal products? I found this recipe for home made leader remover but I wasn't sure if it is effective: 
Homemade products |
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For shotgun bores nothing works faster. 1 dont spill it. 2 pour it back into a bottle. edit I am not that old and I can rember platting copper rennies in school with the stuff to makwe then sliver in color. as a liquid the metal is safer than there makking it out to be. I know now they will clear out a school because 1 floz of the stuff was dropped on the chem lab floor. to me that is way overboard. |
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Lewis lead remover. Uses a mechanical action lthat eaves a bit of brass---easily cleaned w/ powder solvent (i.e. Hoppe's #9, etc.). Or finish shooting session w/ a few jacked bullets. Not sure what you are shooting, you may be able to paper patch (rifle) and avoid leading altogether. Troublesome, sure, but an enjoyable experience if you like to take your time handloading. Also, a good cast bullet load does not lead enough to worry about, a few patches and it all comes out. Turpentine does not work well. Dave |
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My old HS had a mercury "spill" where the teacher demonstrated the surface tension of mercury on a table. Someone told an admin and they shut down the school for a HAZMAT team to come in and clean the mercury spill. It was a $10,000 clean up bill and the teacher's contract was not renewed at the end of the year. Our ISO training tells us the same thing - a drop of mercury can result in a costly cleanup. I've never mesed with the stuff myself and probably won't in the future. All I have been shooting are jacketed bullets but there are stubborn streaks of white/gray residue stuck on the rifling edges in all of my firearms. It's not as apparent on a .22 bore, but in my Glock 9mm barrel, I can clearly see rough spots on the "rifling" edges which appear to be a gray/white/black substance when viewed at the right angle. My Vepr bore (0.311") shows the same thing. It could very well be in my .22 barrels, but I can't really see it. Soaking my Glock barrel in Carbon Killer for 24 hours did nothing to the deposits. Since they looked kind of white/gray, I figured it might be lead. |
Yes I agree, but that level is a few micrograms per liter of blood. I don't know how much mercury actually fell into Minamata Bay - it was a a relatively small leak event of metallic mercury into the bay. There's the problem, bacteria and other microorganisms like intestinal flora process mercury from its metallic state into methylmercury, which then poisons the crap out you. The idea that metallic mercury is safe is cockamamie.... |
in about 10 minutes.
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Geez.. Mercury?? I figure my exposure to stuff thats going to kill me is already pretty high, I dont think Im going to compound the problem by actively using stuff that i know is going to kill me or cause me to grow another arm.. Mercury isnt safe to handle/use in an open environment without precaution. It's readily absorbed by the skin and through inhalation... I agree, exposure levels play a role..but heavy metals like mercury stays in the human body.. I think I'll pass and stick with using chore-boy.. On a side note, you can flame me for saying this, but maybe there's some 18 year old out there who doesnt know the risk involved.. i just think it's fairly irresponsible to post suggestions that are extremely hazardous to health without some caveat of the dangers involved... it's not like suggesting Brake Cleaner or Sweets 762.. While bad for you, there's plenty of warning on those bottles of the dangers.. I would hate to see someone go and use mercury without a mask or gloves thinking it was just another "remedy" to clean his guns.. For the less informed, here's a brief wikipedia link on mercury: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercury_poisoning and yes, Mercury is A LOT more dangerous than simplying mixing peroxide and vinegar.. there's nothing overtly lethal about those two items, mixed or not.. you can spray them on your skin or wet your fingers in them.. YOU WOULD NEVER WANT TO DO THIS WITH MERCURY.. |
I'd have to find the post, but the last time the peroxide and vinegar method was mentioned, an arfcommer mentioned that the lead changes the solution in to sometihng that requires specific disposal. Bottom line, i'd avoid both. |
Good safety point PistolKidd. Let's watch what we post here in the cleaning forum, we don't want to suggest something that might be unsafe. |
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Kroil Oil and GM Top Engine Cleaner work really well. I really don't have much problem with leading in my AR, but I do experince some leading shooting my Sharps at the Black Powder Cartridge Matches and other silhouette matches. A tight patch saturated with Kroil or GM Top Engine cleaner seems to work better than all the specialty products I have tried. I prefer the KROIL. |
Any lead left over from jacket bullets should easily come off using a 10 min soak with Mpro 7 and a few passes with a bronze brush wetted with Mpro 7. This works for my STI Stainless barrel. |
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If it isn't lead, could it be steel fouling? I cannot detect the same type of fouling on the rifling edges on the .22 cal weapons, but I never shot steel jacketed ammo through those waapons. Only the Glock and Vepr had steel jacketed ammo go through, and both have some type of hard fouling that follow the "rifling" edges. |
| brownells sells something called rimfire blend bore cleaner made by bore tech. put in the barrel with a soaked patch and let set a few, run a brush through soaked in the solution a few times. takes out all lead in about 6-8 passes of the brush. run a dry patch through when you're done. its blended for rimefire or lead cast bullets. works like a charm on lead in any type of barrel. i really like it and its not very expensive either. |
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