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Posted: 12/6/2005 4:59:54 AM EDT
[#1]
GM makes a product, something like "Engine Top" IIRC that some guys swear is the same thing as Shooter's Choice. They all say it's much cheaper and you can get it from a GM dealer parts dept. Just make sure you get something that says it cleans carbon, and isn't designed for removing just varnish or gummy deposits.
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Posted: 12/6/2005 5:05:25 AM EDT
[#2]
I have used spray carburetor cleaner on my small parts that get carbon on them for 20 years.
It is made for removing carbon deposits and varnish , and works fine. I shoot a few squirts down my gas tube from time to time also. Probably one of the most effective and cheapest ways to clean the gun. Edited to add: Probably would be best to not get it on any of the plastic parts, because I don't know if it might mar the surface finish if you do. |
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Posted: 12/6/2005 5:20:13 AM EDT
[#3]
I too have used Carb Cleaner in the spray cans for the longest time, but I like to soak my bolt and carrier while I tend to the rest of the rifle. A solution I can use to soak parts in is what I’m after.
I’ve been using a 50/50 mixture of Hoppes #9 and Turpentine or Kerosene but am up to trying something new. |
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Posted: 12/6/2005 5:24:00 AM EDT
[#4]
I may have to hit the WalMart auto section today and really take a good look at some of those fuel system cleaners. |
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Posted: 12/6/2005 8:38:15 AM EDT
[#5]
I have used carb and brake cleaner like others here for years on my firearms....brake cleaner you need to be a bit careful with cause it can make some plastic sticky....
for soaking parts, I use homemade Ed's Red.... |
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Posted: 12/6/2005 8:41:30 AM EDT
[#6]
on brake cleaner you do not have to worry about sticky plastic if you get the non chloro version. |
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Posted: 12/7/2005 8:39:47 PM EDT
[#7]
This a "No shit" guys!
When I went through basic training at Ft Jackson SC in 1974!  We used to get our M-16 so carbin up that we take the lower into shower and run HOT water over them! get all the parts cleaned out, sand was the big one! Just make sure you put a light film of CLP over all the parts!And blow out all the water. It rained real light here 2 weeks ago. Now it's 7 deg, outside. But I wast'nt worried about getting my M4 damp, or wet........It's a Combat rifle! 
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Posted: 12/8/2005 5:34:59 AM EDT
[#8]
Not quite. Running my rifle through the shower is NOT how I want to clean it. And yes, 21 years ago I was in the Army, and like all GI’s I looked for short cuts to cleaning my weapon. What I’m specifically looking for is suggestions on using automotive fuel system cleaners for SOAKING my bolt and carrier in. I’ve been using carb cleaner for years to blast out my lower receivers but carb cleaner is not suitable as a soaking medium, it evaporates to quickly. But to address your shower suggestion: 
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Posted: 12/9/2005 12:27:38 PM EDT
[#9]
It's "Top Engine Cleaner" GM part # 1050002 MSRP is $6.87 for a 15oz can.
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Posted: 12/10/2005 4:54:44 PM EDT
[#10]
Cool graphic. I tried to sharpen it with Photoshop, but it did not improve much. Here is the Photoshoped image.
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Posted: 12/10/2005 10:10:54 PM EDT
[#11]
You guys shoot the lower out with brake cleaner? How do you re-lube the trigger / hammer pins, etc?
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Posted: 12/11/2005 2:22:12 AM EDT
[#12]
When the lower is really dirty I’ll flush the whole thing out using a turkey baster and a 50/50 mixture of Hoppes #9 and Turpentine.
To re-lube I attach the plastic straw to my can of CLP and lube the FCG. The CLP will migrate to where it needs to go. |
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Posted: 12/11/2005 8:46:06 AM EDT
[#13]
How do you sop up all the extra lube afterward? I find myself using q-tips to clean up excess lube and it just comes right back. It's really bad with my KNS anti-spin trigger / hammer pins. The dog bones seem to draw the lube out of the receiver and weeps it all over the exterior. I'm use to my Glocks which don't require very much lube.
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Posted: 12/11/2005 5:10:22 PM EDT
[#14]
I just barely tap the button on the can to get the CLP to flow out the straw, or you can buy the CLP in the squeeze bottle. |
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Posted: 12/20/2005 9:14:08 AM EDT
[#15]
I have seen and heard of several gunsmiths using a small bucket of Simple Green to soak parts in. Also saw it in a video once I think?
Disassemble Drop in the bolt assembly Wait Brush Off Wipe Down CLR and reassemble Put lid on bucket and keep Anyone use or have experience with Simple Green on an AR? |
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Posted: 12/20/2005 10:06:20 AM EDT
[#16]
This is the procedure that I use to cut most of the junk off of parts for cleaning. Simple Green will remove 90% of the crud and old lube. It will not remove lead or copper or really blasted on carbon deposits (it will help cleaning bolts/carriers, but there will still be work left). The remaining heavy carbon will need to be cleaned with stronger (and more expensive) solvents (I like Mil-comm MC-25). Using cheap Simple Green first cuts down on having to use the more expensive stuff to crud cut. I have left parts in Simple Green for days with no ill effects. Just make sure that the part is totally submerged in the liquid. I have had it stain "stainless steel" at the surface of the solution. Hope this helps. |
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Posted: 12/20/2005 10:42:13 AM EDT
[#17]
Ahhh Good Tip! Thanks! |
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