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Posted: 4/28/2005 6:09:27 PM EDT
Just as the title says. Anyone using Militec oil or grease on their AR's? I have used it on my P-7 pistol and think it does a pretty good job as a dry lube. I baked it into the metal surfaces on my pistol and it seems to clean much easier after shooting now. What are your thoughts on using it on the internals of the AR's. I was thinking about using it on my bolt, carrier, and chamber areas. 
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It's not too bad as a lubricant, but you still need the "C" & "P" portions of the C(lean) L(ubricate) P(rotect) equation in your cleaning regimen. It's just much easier for me to use the CLP and take care of everything in one step. It's never let me down and the MiliTec is a relatively new product (and at least in my mind - unproven). I can't quote you any failures of any kind on any of the weapons I used it on. I guess I can only say it didn't "feel right" to me. I know that's not very scientific, but that's the main reason I don't use it anymore. |
| I use it exclusively as the lubricant on my competition 45"s. It's suppossed be a "metal conditioner", meaning the more you use it the better it gets. I've yet to have a failure contributed to a lube issue on either of my 45"s after 1000's of rounds. But.....I use good ole' CLP everywhere on my AR's. Yet to have a failure from them either. |
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Someone at work had a sample, so I ordered some and used it for a while. It did seem to dramatically reduce cleaning times on guns. For example, I cleaned a Beretta with one cleaning patch after 100+ rounds. I had no malfunctions or corrosion issues, but I live in a mild climate. Then I read that some folks had problems with corrosion. I don't know if they applied it correctly or not (with heat)... probably not. Still, I don't use it anymore. I use Break Free CLP and Shooter's Choice for cleaning, and Break Free LP (no solvent) for final lubrication. |
Its the gun man.Ive got one that runs no matter what,even dry.Sweet pistol. |
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I was introduced to this stuff when I purchased my Barrett .50BMG. Their break in procedures REQUIRE that you use this stuff after every round. It really seemed to work well and works even better if you use a heat gun to "activate" the stiffening process. I did some experiments on raw steel and the results were actually quite impressive. I decided to use it on my match AR-15 and it really works well on it as well. Use it on all exposed metal parts especially. I am shooting less than 1/2 MOA with that AR now. You will need to shoot a couple extra fouling rounds if you use it in your barrel. If you have one of the super-tight Kimber 1911's it works WONDERS on those too. Do a little research. Our troops HATE CLP and are begging for militec in the desert. I have tried it and it only does a sub-standard job of everything. Use something good like Sweets for cleaning, lube with militec and wipe it down to a film. That's the only way to do the job right. |
 Jeez, you must not've followed the instructions properly. It clearly states that one must bathe the rifle in Militec only when the Moon is in Taurus. One must apply using only one's own hair while burning black candles and chanting "Cetilim..Cetilim". Apparently for true match results, application should be done only by a vestial virgin at midnight or noon. The weapon should then be baked at 350' until golden brown, and served over rice. If you're not precise, your shit will just rust away as the Gods of War and Lubrication reject your paltry sacrifice.
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  Stop it Winston your killing me.You made me blow Pepsi through my nose. Actually I think the baking makes the corrosion gods very happy. |
 I dont think it had much of an effect.Have you seen the stuff thats on the website lately? I almost got a brain bleed reading some of it. We better shut up or our picture's and posts will be on there.  
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Sorry that some of you don't like it. I have tried all sorts of lubricants and I have had the best results with militec. I am a big sceptic but I love to test new products so I did a bunch of testing on raw steel first and it worked very well. I would agree that it definately is not for the guy that likes to blow 1000 rnds of cheap wolf ammo through his AR, hose it down with brake cleaner, hose it down with CLP and call his rifle clean. It would better suit the needs of the AR owner who is looking for greater performance, smoother action, and meticulously cleans his rifle. I have found that a there are quite a few other oils that work pretty well too, but I won't get into that. The only one that I can say truely and totally SUX is CLP. CLP is a lame "snakespit" attempt and an all-in-one. Kinda like weed-n-feed for your yard. The crap does a little bit of everything but it does nothing very good. Just look at the viscosity... it makes WD-40 seem like motor honey. ** A man with a gun in his mouth only speaks vowels ** |
And yet the rifle will run like a cheap date after seeing a sugar daddy, weather you hose it down with CLP or use the right ammount. Ask yoiur self this if CLP sucks so bad why is it the STD that everyone compares it to? CLP works and works well enough. Miltec aint worth dogsh*& to me and a lot of others who cant stomach there bs. |
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Fair enough. If you like CLP, then continue to use it. Lksyotas started this thread asking if anyone was using militec on thier AR's and wanted their opinion. A bunch of us aerospace engineers use the stuff and like it... so, as Lksyotas requested, I am giving him my thoughts on it. I have to appologize for discrediting CLP so bad on my last post. The stuff actually has a very useful purpose. If I were in a combat zone where I need to get my gun field stripped, cleaned up, and ready for action quickly then I would use CLP. It is very good for that purpose. Back in Vietnam, some of the guys would mix a little motor oil and diesel fuel together and use it in a similar fashion to CLP. I actually own 4 bottles of CLP and if it ever came down to SHTF day, I would leave my militec behind and take the CLP. The only real problem with CLP is that there are too many people that believe that it is the best product that they can use to protect their weapons. The liberals weenies haven't succeeded in causing a SHTF day YET so my newest AR is currently being used as a tack-driving range gun and occasionally for dog hunting. It gets nothing but the best and all of my time it needs to keep it pristine. I love going to the range and outshooting all but the high-end benchrest shooters. ** A man with a gun in his mouth only speaks vowels ** |
WOW, sorry guys, didn't mean to start a flaming session here. I just wanted to see what you guys thought of the product. I have used it on my USP and P7 and I think it made my P7 cycle smoother. As for corrosion protection I don't know because I baby my handguns. They are cleaned meticulously after every range trip. Now my AR on the other hand. I may try it after all. I have been shooting Wolf through it and now I am getting FTF from it after a few hundred rounds down range. Perhaps Militec will help ease the problem. I guess we will have to see...
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| I read on a forum that miltech 1 was the "shit" so I spent $30 and bought some... it seems to get the job done... dry the old 1911 might jam, with a little miltech it will not..., now you guys say it is not so good.... I used to use clp but some people said on a forum said to use miltech... now it is no good.... hmmm well some other people said to use mobile 1... maybe after the miltech I will give it a try.... |
| Why a lot of people do not like Miltec is that it is only a lube. nothing else. For what they are charging, I would rather spend my money on a lube that also has rust prevent. For me it is FP-10. BF CLP has FP-10 Beat in rust prevent and from what I have seen on my 1/12 A1 barrel fp-10 cleans better than Hoppes eliete, or I am not using hoppes right. |
| I use Hoppes Elite. I like the stuff. Biodegradable and non-toxic means I can clean in the house now. The bore gel seems to work very well my cleaning times are actually getting quicker and I believe it is because of the Hoppes Elite. For lube I just use Rem Oil. I came here from using shotguns. Never tried CLP. But I've never had a failure from using Rem Oil. So what I guess I'm saying is if it works for you then use it if not then switch to something else. |
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Did not try the Bore gel, just the small pump bottle. For 6 bucks for 2 ozs. The more dangerous cleaners work better. I have an area for cleaning so smaell is not a problem. and I use gloves. If it works for you great. I know mpro7 works great on my pistols it just does not seem to do as good as a job on my ar. |
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I'm still wondering about Ballistol.. To believe the hype it's completely non-toxic (Germans have wiped it on their kids scrapes for years), cleans out everything but unobtainium, and does a good job as a lube and protectant. They sell it for veterinary use. I just wonder about it's performance in something like an AR-15 in regards to lubrication. I'm certainly not about to squirt any on my Kimber 'till I read at least 3 more pages of scientific gobbledygook saying my baby won't rust, wear, or otherwise shit the bed with ballistol. |
Here is a post on Ballistol and my feed back on it. www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=7&t=232968 Also check out the Ballistol-Klever site.They have a bit more information on the product. www.klever-ballistol.de/ If you want more details click the email link and ask Dr.Zettler directly.Very nice fella. Its a darn good product.The uses claimed by the manufacturer are pretty much on the money for the most part.It cleans powder,lead and copper well enough.I have yet to have any corrosion issues with it.See my posts. The non-toxic claims are pretty much true too,but there is isobutyl alcohol in it.Could cause some issues with sensitive lungs if you read the MSDS. The Ballistol aerosol contains isohexane I believe.So to lessen the solvent content I use the Ballistol liquid only.Its the original formula and works as it is and I do not like aerosol oils. Ballistol does not cause my skin to have fits like some other clp's.Neither does FP-10 though... Break Free CLP aerosol kills my skin by the way. The Ballistol oil is not at all hype at all,you just gota read through all the information,most of which have been provided by consumers.It works very well as a gun lube as it was designed.I have not used it as a wound dressing  ,but it works very well on just about any gun part and that includes the wood and leather slings.I can say that for a fact.As I said in my posts I do not think its as long lasting as the newer synthetics,but it will certainly work.It also has the advantage of being able to neutralize corrosive compounds and dissolve copper,which the new synthetics does not.So it has an edge in that area. Ballistol also aids in removing rust extremely well.Found that out by using it on some rusty muzzle loaders. It does not use chemical inhibitors either.It uses a vegital oil as an oxygen binder and the alkaline to neutralize acidic compounds. I had some concerns about the Ballistol and aluminum due the the pH of 8-9.I contacted Klever and they said in thin films as used on gun parts there is no concern of damage to anodized aluminum or blued/browned steel.They did advise not to soak(dunk tank) aluminum parts in a container of Ballistol in warm conditions or the anodized surface could be damaged.There was some information posted on the web site about this for awhile but I no longer see it available. Also it might be advisable to not use Ballistol on authentic color case as found on some older Colt six guns. I consider the Ballistol safe and effective. HTH |
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Hell, vegetable oil is a good lubricant. Plus you'll smell like a french fry once you heat the gun up good and it starts slinging the oil around. I tried Militec cause I got some free. Their demo using a bearing tester (if you've seen it you'll know what I'm talking about) is a classic snake-oil show. I'm turned off by their marketing scheme and disinformation campaign. I'd like to know just how many military units are BUYING any Militec rather than just using their free samples. Since it doesn't prevent corrosion you still have to use something else, so why use two products when you can get everything you need from a good CLP? |
| I got the oil/grease freebie sample. Didn't think too much of the oil, I didn't find it's lube properties all that great, certainly no better than BF. I like the grease, use it on my M1's and M14's. I haven't bought any of it yet, the grease sample has lasted me almost 2 years now and I still have half the container left........I threw the oil in the garbage. |
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I found this interesting. Mil Tec testamonials. Note that the link that states "MILITEC-1 Worked Perfectly In 140-Degree Heat.Mil Spec CLP Has Proven To Catch Fire At These Temps". Is that actually true? Can CLP catch fire at 140 degrees? I don't use CLP anymore but it would seem awful strange that the stuff would catch fire at that low of temperature. |
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I just got a 16oz bottle of it for almost nothing, so I guess I'll use it on something. I have used their free samples in the past on some handguns, but found it a mediocre lube. It didn't appear to be any slicker than anything else. I've used CLP (BreakFree and others) for years and have been satisfied. I am using FP10 right now and it's a good product. I have plenty of it and will continue to use it. |
You are past 140F at the bolt and chamber of a rifle after a single 30rd mag fired slowly, so I seriously doubt this is the case. The MSDS lists the flash point as 201F; but I am thinking that is probably for large quantities of it since you can hit temps around 600F inside the rifle with heavy full-auto use. |
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