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Posted: 5/19/2003 7:38:35 PM EDT
I read on another post that you should not use Simple Green on an AR. I was just wanting to know if their are any other cleaners that can damage the finish on my rifle? And what I can use to remove crayon out of the lettering on my lower (I know, it was stupid ), CLP is not cutting it? Thanks for your help.
Link Posted: 5/19/2003 8:04:09 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Kirk-A3: And what I can use to remove crayon out of the lettering on my lower
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Now that I have never heard of. Try some hoppes #9 and a toothbrush.
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 3:43:56 AM EDT
Denatured alchohol and kerosene are both agressive wax solvents and thats all a crayon is,wax.If it's really stuck steam might help. Had you been cleaning the weapon with some type of solvent without proper ventilation immediately prior to this episode?.....wow
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 4:02:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/20/2003 4:03:15 AM EDT by curt]
After you've cleaned up you should have your mother put the crayon box waaay up high where you can't reach it..now go clean up your room young man. BTW lacquer sticks or model paint are best for coloring in the lettering.
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 1:54:41 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Kirk-A3: I read on another post that you should not use Simple Green on an AR. I was just wanting to know if their are any other cleaners that can damage the finish on my rifle? And what I can use to remove crayon out of the lettering on my lower (I know, it was stupid [banghead]), CLP is not cutting it? Thanks for your help.
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Just a question, did you not like the look of the crayon or what? Did it absort dirt and look like crap or just the look in the beginning? I did this with my Eagle Arms preban and love the look. The white contrasts nicely with the black and really makes the rifle stand out. But to each his own.
Link Posted: 5/20/2003 2:22:38 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/20/2003 2:23:20 PM EDT by Kirk-A3]
I did like the look and I used the crayon as a non-permanent test run just to make sure. I was just inquiring as to the best way to remove it so I can rework the lettering with a lacquer stick or paint as was suggested above. [^]
Link Posted: 5/24/2003 10:51:55 PM EDT
The real question is....Did you stay within the lines?
Link Posted: 5/25/2003 6:25:22 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 5/25/2003 6:31:09 AM EDT by JTinIN]
Big issue with Simple Green (and similar type cleaners which can be used with water and are not the classic solvent cleaners) is that they can cause corrosion of the aluminum over time if trapped in a joint or small crack (this is a big issue in the airline industry where can get between two aluminum items which are attached together and thus one can not remove the Simple Green due to being in the bottom of the small crack made by the joint - have seen examples of parts that failed due to this. The examples make a nice demos for "why no Simple Green" or other non-approved cleaners is allowed with in the fence ;-). If one was very careful and did not get cleaner into the various pin holes, then rinsed very well afterwards ... you would probably be safe using on the external surface. Other option would be one of the orange cleaners (which might actually work in the wax a little better). Talked to Break Free on using their cleaner / degresser in the ultrsoncice and the reply was that was ok on aluminum if diluted 10 to 1 (I am still thinking on this). Regards John To e-mail shoot the X's out.
Link Posted: 5/25/2003 1:02:04 PM EDT
Originally Posted By Kirk-A3: I read on another post that you should not use Simple Green on an AR. I was just wanting to know if their are any other cleaners that can damage the finish on my rifle? And what I can use to remove crayon out of the lettering on my lower (I know, it was stupid [banghead]), CLP is not cutting it? Thanks for your help.
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I use Simple Green but *ONLY* on the carrier and bolt (non aluminum), after it is removed from the rifle. SG is great at eating up the carbon and is much less harmful to you. It is biodegradable and I use it in the kitchen sink with hot water. After drying everything, oil it and put it back together.
Link Posted: 5/25/2003 1:37:42 PM EDT
I'll give you credit Kirk, you have gonads for posting this. Even though these guys know what you were trying to do it will catch a few funny posts. There's a solvent out there call "Ooops" that comes in a small can that will take crayon right up. It's usually sold at Lowes, Walmart, etc.
Link Posted: 5/26/2003 3:11:42 AM EDT
Thanks for the information TJ. I will go out and get some today, I still have a little residue in the bottom corners of the lettering. And a good poke in the ribs keeps it entertaining.[beer]
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