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2/2/2003 4:35:19 PM EDT
What is the proper method of removing the buffer tube?  I am trying to replace one and it won't come off.  I am using a wrench, but it keeps slipping and scratching the buffer tube, which I was hoping would not happen. Do I need to put something on the threads of the receiver?  Is there a special tool I should be using instead of the wrench?  Thanks in advance.
2/2/2003 8:49:06 PM EDT
[#1]
Must be a Colt.  They torque the crap out of them at the factory.  I would suggest that if you don't have a lower receiver block that you can place in a vise, then you work off of the "buddy system", and have a strong friend manhandle the lower while you carefully unscrew the buffer tube.  There is no magic involved, and if you scratch a little of the anodizing off-well, no big deal, it's hidden by the stock anyway.  Just be careful not to round off the stud with the wrench.  When you reinstall the new one, put a SMALL amount of moly grease on the threads.  A little goes a long way.
2/4/2003 5:24:00 PM EDT
[#2]

Usually they will come off if you use penetrating oil on the threads and let them set for a couple of hours. However, even that didn't work on one recently. I had heard that putting it into the freezer might work. I did that, for 24 hours, and it did come off after that. (Wrap it in plastic wrap first unless you want your next hamburgers to taste like penetrating oil).

Yep, doorgunner, it was a Colt.

A strap wrench sometimes works if you can get it to grip the buffer tube without turning, but I usually find that a wrench on the end of the tube is best. But it is soft metal out there, and will round off easily.

If you're manhandling it yourself or using a friend to hold it, be careful and don't snap something off, since the pistol grip is probably absorbing most of the force.
2/7/2003 12:08:41 AM EDT
[#3]
Poor mans receiver block is putting the lower in a vice with many layers of leather or other soft material inbetween your receiver and the vice surface.
I've found the best place is to secure it around the threaded rear of the lower. It is sturdy, but don't torque it down to hard.
The bigger the wrench, the more torque you can dish out. I get to do my Colt Preban 6601 whenever my magpul stock arrives. I'm not looking forward to it.
Definately grease the SOB when you install the new one. Never seize stuff isn't to bad of an idea either.
For the absolute worst case, if that mofo is stuck in good. The freezer and heat will do wonders. That's how they get the props off of huge ships, heat it up.
If you can rig a way to make the tube cold as possible, and heat the lower up (even room temp) it will help a lot.
I would not recommend a blow torch. [;)]
-Steve
2/9/2003 11:57:06 AM EDT
[#4]
Automotive starting fluid is very cold and evaporates quickly, I womder if that would help?
2/9/2003 12:40:39 PM EDT
[#5]
A receiver block is a whole lot cheaper than a new receiver. (Just my $100 worth).
2/9/2003 12:53:39 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Automotive starting fluid is very cold and evaporates quickly, I womder if that would help?
View Quote


Um, I wouldnt do it. Ether is a solvent and MIGHT take off some of the Teflon finish if your lower has it.
2/9/2003 1:23:39 PM EDT
[#7]
When I changed my Colt over from the A1 stock to a colapsable I justed drilled a hole through the buffer tube and used a strong screwdriver pushed through to torque it off. Granted you may not want to drill holes through your AR, but a replacement tube is cheaper than a new reciever.

Just for iformation: I used a 3/8th bit about 1- 1.5 inches up from the reciever straight through the tube.

Just remember if you do this: I'm not in the room. [:)]
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