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Posted: 5/12/2017 6:42:45 PM EDT
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Hello All,
I took my new AR15 to the range today and had a weird issue. By the way this is my first build. The rifle fired the first round great, but when it came to the second round I got nothing. I pulled the charging handle to extract the unused round. The third round went off without an issue and then came the fourth round and the same dam thing nothing. I pull the charging handle again to extract the unused round. I looked at both unused rounds and the rifle puts a light strike on the primer, but not enough of course to fire it. I ran through about 40 rounds and the same with every other round that happen. Any help with this issue would be helpful. Thanks, Brett |
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So, if I'm understanding you correctly, the rifle is cycling fine (as in, you pull the trigger, one round fires, the BCG then travels rearwards extracting the empty case and chambering the next round), but you're not able to fire the newly chambered next round?
Are you getting a dead trigger? Or can you feel the trigger release the hammer yet that next round isn't firing? You'll usually get a light dimple on the primer of every chambered round due to the floating firing pin. If you're getting a dead trigger (which it seems like you are, considering the FCG seems to work fine during hand cycling), it sounds like a FCG problem (possibly disconnector) resulting in the hammer following the BCG home when chambering a round during the normal cycle of operations. |
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Start here and toggle down to the photos I post to check the install on the parts, including which way the hammer spring should have been installed.
On the disconnector spring, it should have been installed large coil side down into the trigger slot under the tail of the disco. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_66/241858_New-Trigger-and-hammer-pins-walking-out--Why-my-rifle-is-not-igniting-the-primer-.html If the FCG was installed correctly, then next test is to check the hammer rear sear and disco sears for edge burs. Short check here is to fire the first round, cycle the selector from fire to safe, then back to safe and see if you get the second trigger pull. If this is allowing the rifle to fire on the shot after the live feed, then clean up the burs. https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_66/676009_Disconnector_hanging_on_Hammer_lug_after_firing_one_round.html Lastly, if the above did not solve the problem, then as you fire the first shot, and before you pull the trigger again, look to confirm that the front of the carrier is tight against the face of the barrel extension. If the two are not tight together, then the bolt is not fully locked up, and this needed to be resolve. It could be that you have not pulled the rifle down to a cleaning stage to do a detail cleaning on the rig, including scrubbing the chamber with a chamber brush/CLP by hand before the rifle was first fired to remove the assembly/storage grease, the correctly lubed the bearing areas of the upper receiver with CLP as well. Note, the buffer and buffer spring should be removed to be CLP cleaned, and they when reinstalled, a light coat of CLP on them. CLP has a cleaning agent in it, so not only is it a great lube, but prevents the rifle from fouling choking out as it being fired as well. Also, double check to make sure that the gas tube is correctly indexed with the carrier key. To do this as you are cleaning the rifle before it first shot, using only the carrier with key (bolt on installed), dry fit the carrier with key to the upper receiver alone. The carrier should not be binding in the upper receiver channel, and when the front of the carrier gets about a inch from touching the face of the barrel extension, the gas tube should cleanly slip into the key channel. If the gas tube needs to be tweaked to correct the alignment, then tweak the gas tube over the center of the barrel. Lastly, just like a new rifle, new mags should be stripped apart to be given a good CLP cleaning as well. Speaking of mags, crap clone mags will cause problems, as well as not having the mag catch threaded assembly end flushed with the face of the mag release button. To add, if you are shooting reloads, then they should be checked in an ammo gauge. Hence even if the cases where correctly trimmed and sized, it too easy to apply too much bullet crimp to end up with the shoulders of the cases bulged and will not chamber correctly in the rifle. The sling shot of the manual first loading may be enough to get the bolt to lock up, but when the rifle is self loading, may not instead. |
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Brett, before you hit the range, do a couple of function checks with the rifle unloaded.
With the carrier locked back on the catch, hit the catch release to allow the B/C to slam home, then pull the trigger to confirm that that the hammer held on the trigger sear, and that when you go to pull the trigger, it releases the hammer to strike the FP. Do this test again with the B/C crashing home from the bolt catch release, but hold the trigger back as the B/C is crashing home. Now when you release the trigger, does the disco release the hammer to the trigger so on the trigger pull, the hammer is fully released to strike the FP. If during this test the trigger can not be pulled after it has been released (after the B/C crashed home) flick the selector from fire to safe, then back to safe and see if the this allows the hammer to be pulled to strike the FP. Again, the hammer spring installed the wrong way should only cause problems with either light primer strikes, or the trigger pin walking out to cause problems instead. Since you did not state that the trigger pin was walking out, leads be to believe that the problem is still present, that the problem may not be solved yet. |
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