AR Sponsor
Posted: 5/24/2015 10:46:05 PM EDT
| I took the new rifle to the range last week right out of the box. It kept jamming in the chamber, talked to another guy, he said clean it well so I did. I took it to the range yesterday and it didn't jam, but now it doesn't kick out the casing after firing. I have to manually eject it after each fire. it's a 1:8 twist, and I am using 55gr ammo. would that having anything to do with it? another guy mentioned that I need to lube the chamber really well and dry fire to work it out. Any suggestions? thanks. |
|
When you cleaned the rifle, did you use a chamber brush to clean the chamber with CLP by hand. Also, did you pull the buffer and recoil spring to CLP clean and lightly lube the parts as well.
When you cleaned the bolt, did you pull the extractor off the bolt to clean the bolt as well? Granted that you leave the key on the carrier (do not back out or remove the the key allen bolts), you pull down the B/C to it parts to give is a good CLP cleaning too. Hence the rifle comes with storage/assembly grease in it (with some debries in the grease as well), and this needs to be removed (CLP will do such), then the upper receiver bearing areas lubed with fresh CLP after the old grease has been removed. So cleaning and lube wise, the rifle gets cleaned with CLP (has both a cleaning and lubing agent in it). If you need a source for CLP, then BreakfreeCLP in the large spray can is less than $10. Now having said this, CLP sucks at cleaning copper out of the rifle bore without a great deal of scrubbing. So on that note, start with cleaning the copper out of the bore with Sweets, dry patch the fouled Sweets out (will be blue), then move to the chamber with a Chamber scrub brush and CLP, followed by the CLP cleaning the rest of the rifle. As for the upper receiver bearing areas, they get Lubed with CLP, but the chamber and the barrel bore stay bone dry instead. The fastest way to lube the upper receiver bearing areas, lube the inside and outside of the B/C on the wetter side with CLP, install the B/C in the rifle CLP wet, and empty cycle the action a few times to migrate the CLP from the B/C to the upper receiver bearing areas (leave the wet B/C in the rifle for live fire). Lastly, what ammo where you using? the steel coated case ammo is not the ammo to first mate the gun in with. Instead, get some Brass case USA for break in instead. |
|
Any information about the configuration of the rifle may help, details like manufacturer, barrel length, front sight base or gas block on the barrel, stock type, buffer type, etc.
When you are having the malfunction of the empty casing being left behind after firing, is it failing to extract, or failing to eject? A fail to extract is where the empty case is being left inside of the chamber, and not being pulled out of the chamber at all when the bolt carrier assembly goes rearward. A fail to eject means that the empty casing is being extracted (removed) from the chamber as the bolt carrier assembly goes rearward, but the empty case is not being pushed out of the ejection port (ejected). As already mentioned, give the rifle a good cleaning, to include the chamber using a chamber brush and a good solvent. If the rifle came from the factory with a packing oil on it, it will most likely be coating the chamber walls, of which can cause empty casings to stock and not extract. Once you have brushed out the chamber and bore, then make sure that the solvent is removed so it doesn't cause casings to stick, I use denatured alcohol to swab it out and remove any solvent/oil etc, the alcohol will evaporate quickly and leave things dry. When you lubricate the bolt carrier assembly, make sure you put a drop of lubricant on each of the 7 bolt lugs, and then on the rails of the bolt carrier, what we send out with rifles and use in armorer courses is Slip2000 "EWL" Extreme Weapons Lube. Use a good quality American made ammunition from a reputable manufacturer (Use new ammo, not reloads), and fed from a good quality magazine (The rifle relies on a good feeding device, so don't skimp on magazine quality). CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" SLR15 Rifles TheDefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
|
Quoted:
I took the new rifle to the range last week right out of the box. It kept jamming in the chamber, talked to another guy, he said clean it well so I did. I took it to the range yesterday and it didn't jam, but now it doesn't kick out the casing after firing. I have to manually eject it after each fire. it's a 1:8 twist, and I am using 55gr ammo. would that having anything to do with it? another guy mentioned that I need to lube the chamber really well and dry fire to work it out. Any suggestions? thanks. New rifle that you built or was built at home by someone else? The gas block may not be lined up properly with the gas port in the barrel. A guy I know installed a cheap flip up front sight and he missed the gas system alignment completely causing the symptoms you have. Tula ammo is junk. If you're shooting USA made ammo what does the fired case look like? What brand of rifle is it? |
AR Sponsor