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Posted: 12/26/2014 9:15:39 PM EDT
| First of all I'm new to all of this, forums and the ar15's. I've been around guns all my life just not semi automatic. I went out today and fired some rounds I reloaded myself and I let my brother fire it and it double fired. Now i have no clue what caused it but I want to give all info so I can maybe help who's helping me.I was using 50gn Hornady vmax with 24.5 gn imr 4064 and cci sr primers. Now I had no signs on my brass of anything being excessive. The one thing I noticed was that'd the second of the two that fired didn't have the normal firing pin mark at all, it was elongated and half moon shaped to an extent kinda like the bolt edge maybe I don't know. now I don't believe it was the bolt at all because it was all closed when it went off because also on the primer you can see where it looks like the firing pin wasn't what made the second go off because you could see where the primer from the pressure (normal pressure) formed back into the bolt a little because the firing pin wasn't out. So it looked the exact opposite of what it's supposed to with the exception of the indentation I mentioned above. Oh it an Olympic arms assembled by them and I've hade a couple hundred through it with no problems until today. Everything up until today was factorys. And now this happened with my reloads. Coincidence or not I don't know please help. Any info I left out please ask, I want to make sure it's safe before I shoot it again. Single shot sucks haha. |
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Quoted: First of all I'm new to all of this, forums and the ar15's. I've been around guns all my life just not semi automatic. I went out today and fired some rounds I reloaded myself and I let my brother fire it and it double fired. Now i have no clue what caused it but I want to give all info so I can maybe help who's helping me.I was using 50gn Hornady vmax with 24.5 gn imr 4064 and cci sr primers. Now I had no signs on my brass of anything being excessive. The one thing I noticed was that'd the second of the two that fired didn't have the normal firing pin mark at all, it was elongated and half moon shaped to an extent kinda like the bolt edge maybe I don't know. now I don't believe it was the bolt at all because it was all closed when it went off because also on the primer you can see where it looks like the firing pin wasn't what made the second go off because you could see where the primer from the pressure (normal pressure) formed back into the bolt a little because the firing pin wasn't out. So it looked the exact opposite of what it's supposed to with the exception of the indentation I mentioned above. Oh it an Olympic arms assembled by them and I've hade a couple hundred through it with no problems until today. Everything up until today was factorys. And now this happened with my reloads. Coincidence or not I don't know please help. Any info I left out please ask, I want to make sure it's safe before I shoot it again. Single shot sucks haha. |
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Quoted: Sorry but what is out of battery? out of battery means that the bolt isn't closed all the way. its designed so that the firing pin wont reach the primer if the bolt isn't all the way closed and locked. I think everyone here is of the conclusion that your primers/reloads are at fault. Did you remove the pocket crimp? |
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Double sound like a high primer that was not seated correctly in the case when you where reloading.
With a correctly seated primer, and the floating firing pin, you will get a light indent to the primer face on bolt lock up/loading (will not cause the primer to be ignited), while with the primer not seated correctly (too high), it can cause the light indenting of the primer on loading to become enough to ignite the round instead. Yes, the firing pin can not reach the primer until the bolt is locked up, but with a higher primer, the normal light dimpling becomes enough to cause the primer to be ignited as the bolt is locking up. As for your loads, take the time to understand power burn speed, and what is a good power to keep the burn rate correct for the 5.56/223 rifle. Don't get me wrong, love 4064, but is a power with a slower burn rate is better suited 69gr bullet in the 223, then the 50 gr bullets you are using. With the 50 gr bullets, you looking for a power in the burn range of H-322. http://www.reloadersnest.com/burnrates.asp |
| Sorry it took so long to get back I've had trouble with the site because of being new to it I guess. I do agree with what you all say, I just want to understand what left the odd shape on the primer. And I read more on the crimping and have a swagging tool for my press in the mail and have quit reloading for the .223 until I get it. Which has given me time to load almost a 1000 rounds for my 40 and 45 :). But anyway the indentation left on the primer wasn't centered like the pin, and it was kinda half moon shaped. I can't measure it with my calipers for more info cuz I lost that one case around here somewhere, I'll look for it again and see if I can't get a picture to show the mark. Now how do you go about measuring that the primer is .001 inside the pocket? Now dano I agree I need to do more reading on burn rates, but as I'm sure you know powder is ridiculous to find and I had bunches of 4064 from my first rifle 12 years ago when I started all this realoding at 16. I moved up to w748 because of the amount of space in the case 4064 took. Ball powder was bragged about on other sites so I got two pounds and am messing with it. I hope it's good to use with the light bullets. I just don't think I have the barrel twist for heavier bullets, yet anyway. Thanks for all the info, I learn all I can about guns from my grandpa, but we target shoot and he is set in his was with bolt actions. Don't get me wrong I love my .308 but this AR is a blast. I just have a lot or learning to do. Thanks for the link though dano, I'll do some reading on burn rates for sure |
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