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Posted: 6/18/2012 3:46:33 PM EDT
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I recently purchased my first rifle, a Smith & Wesson M&P 15 Sport. I wanted to removed the stock sight block and replace it with a low profile gas block so I can use my magpul flip sight and install a free float tube.
I have disassembled the rifle almost completely with no hassle and put it back together, but now that I have a need to take off the front site block I can not get the pins to budge. The top pin above the barrel came out fairly easy, but the two pins going through the bottom of the sight block are giving me trouble to say the least. At first I was following an instructional video online which said that all pins go from left to right, which I found to be false. Now I see that the smaller end of my pins is on the right side. I spent 2 hours with several attempts to hit those pins, to find out I was hitting the wrong side. I now have given the same time on the correct side to no avail. They will not budge. I've tried heating up the area as mentioned in other threads... no luck... I've tried letting a little oil sit on the pins for hours then coming to attempt to knock them out again... still no luck. I don't care if I damage the front sight block process if anyone has an extreme idea that they know works or something lol... I'd love to hear anyone else's feed back or ideas. |
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Nail set punch with a 3lb sledge hammer.
Back up the FSB with a V block of wood, use the nail set punch/sledge to get the pins to start to drift, then switch over to a stand punch and hammer to remove them. Without such brute force (and a punch that is not going to bend), you just end up peen'g the ends of the taper pins, instead of getting them to drift from the start. 
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Quoted:
I havent had any luck locating a nail punch like that at home depot or other local tool stores. I guess I'll have to order them online. I'll post an update tonight after I take another wack at it Ace, Home depot, lowes, All have one piece nail set punches, and the reason that you are going to use this tool, the tapering tip and the fact that it's hardened beyond belief, keeps it from bending/deflecting when struck. As for cutting the FSB down, don't WECSOG it, it going to turn out like ASS!!!!!! WECSOG - Wile E Coyote School of Gunsmithing. About the only what that I cut down FSB's to flush them is to mill them, then bead blast the milled surface to sheen match the rest of the base, then re-parkerize them so the look factory when you are done. Plus, depending which free float tube you are going to install, may have to remove the FSB before you can install the tube anyway. |
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Well I took another attempt tonight with a nail punch like the one you posted and a 4 lb hammer. I did not have any luck this time either. I think I'm going to have to find a gunsmith to take it to.
Thanks for your help guys! I was looking forward to conquering the evil pins myself, but there's no shame in admitting defeat 
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| i do agree with dano that if you cut down the FSB that to do it the right way is to have it milled, but i have cut many FSB's with a dremel and then clean it up with a good file, then paint it with high heat grill paint, they have turned out just fine and if its under your handguard you will never see it anyway, also dano is correct about the FSB having to be removed to install certain handguards. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I havent had any luck locating a nail punch like that at home depot or other local tool stores. I guess I'll have to order them online. I'll post an update tonight after I take another wack at it Ace, Home depot, lowes, All have one piece nail set punches, and the reason that you are going to use this tool, the tapering tip and the fact that it's hardened beyond belief, keeps it from bending/deflecting when struck. As for cutting the FSB down, don't WECSOG it, it going to turn out like ASS!!!!!! WECSOG - Wile E Coyote School of Gunsmithing. About the only what that I cut down FSB's to flush them is to mill them, then bead blast the milled surface to sheen match the rest of the base, then re-parkerize them so the look factory when you are done. Plus, depending which free float tube you are going to install, may have to remove the FSB before you can install the tube anyway. I have had great success with cut down FSBs. Hardly WECSOG results here. Certainly don't look like "ASS". 
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what surface are you trying on?
try concrete or something similarly unyielding as you main work surface and then something pretty strudy as a brace under the fsb like ... hardwood? Bushies fsbs are the most common i see on here with help how do i get it off I've heard of some using industrial presses and making jigs to remove them. |
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Russ4777, in my youth, did a lot of engine porting work (flow and polishing) with a magic wand (air grinder), so yes, spend enough time with any hand tool and you can master it with perfect results .
But to let someone loose with a hand tool like a dremil for the first time, and expect perfect results out the gate, that's a bit over the top, don't you think (hence why I suggested that his results would look like ass)??? |
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I had the EXACT same problem with my M&P 15 2 years ago. I had bought the orange pin block from Brownells and spent several days banging away at it, watching YouTube vids, the whole 9 yards. The last day I literally beat the crap out of it, and it wouldn't come out. Then since I had marred the site and block, I though screw it and tried the banging them out the "wrong direction" hoping to loosen the pins up. And wouldn't you know it, a few hard smacks and they came right out from the opposite side than all the directions, youtube vids, and Brownells block showed.
I then fought lining up the low profile gas block correctly. Luckily I found these directions. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/481447_.html In retrospect, I would have fired up the dremel and followed the advice of the people above. It would have saved me a lot of trouble. |
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If you think you've taken the rifle almost completely apart already, just wait until it is time to install the ring that holds the free float tube. By the way, that probably won't fit over a cut off front sight base, so you need to get it off one way or another.
To do it properly, you need a support block that properly cradles the FSB. Since I didn't want to purchase such a specialized tool, I took it to the local gunsmith who charged me $5 and had it off in 5 minutes. Do him a favor and prep the pins with penetrating oil every day for a few days. I like the term "magic wand". I used to fishmouth .049 wall roll cage tubing free hand with one of those and get better results than a joint jigger. I wasn't just passing the problems on the the welder, because I was also the guy with the TIG. When using tools like that there is a bit of artistry involved and either you get it or you don't. Some people "get it" on the second try, and others need years of experience before they are any good. |
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