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Posted: 9/22/2010 9:05:54 PM EDT
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I'm having issues with my AR-15 that I built up a few months ago. I built the lower using a Firebird Precision lower and a RRA NM part kit. It was working great until a couple of weeks ago, when I noticed that the trigger wasn't resetting properly. If I take up the first stage and then let off without firing, the trigger doesn't always reset the first stage and stays against the second stage. Sometimes it resets and sometimes it doesn't. Additionally, the take up of the first stage feels gritty/rough.
I have close to 500 rounds through the gun and never noticed the problem until a couple of weeks ago while shooting the last high power match. I had a friend help me out today with stoning the seer contact surfaces, and that seems to have helped some but didn't eliminate the problem. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar issues, and how you resolved the problem or if you have any recommendations. If there's time, I'm going to see if I can't have a gunsmith I know take a look at it this weekend. Thanks. |
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Polishing the front, where hammer than trigger meet, is not going to do much to help your reset issue.
The quickest thing for you to do would be to contact RRA and have them repair/replace it. There are other places to polish, if you do not want to go this route. The easiest thing for you to do would be to upgrade the FCG, but I do not know if you want to do that. |
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Probably the best course of action is to send the unit back to RRA, and hope they will replace or repair it. They may not because you altered the unit when you stoned it.
A reset issue like this is usually a sign of a dirty unit or one that's binding. Something is preventing or impeding the trigger from moving freely. That might be as simple as a unit that's got fouling or bits of brass shaved from cases in it, or one that's dry of lube. Remove the unit and soak in a jar of lacquer thinner or acetone for 30 minutes or so, or use one of the spray gun scrubbers. If you have access to one, an ultrasonic cleaner is great. Put an inch of water in the tank and stand a small jar in the tank with enough lacquer thinner to cover the trigger unit. If you have compressed air, blow it out. Dry by warming the unit with a hair dryer. NOTE I said WARM not HOT. Use a hair dryer not a heat gun or torch. This is needed to insure all solvent is dried from the interior of the hammer and trigger pin holes. Apply a good coat of CLP Breakfree to the unit, making sure to get plenty in so it'll work it's way into the trigger and hammer pins. Drain the excess, and test the trigger. The other cause of reset issues like this is binding, usually of the trigger pin and trigger caused by a bent pin or a distorted or sticking trigger spring. This should be addressed by RRA. |
| Thanks for the replies. I contacted RRA already. Their response was that I could send in the trigger for them to see if it is out of spec, but since it wasn't their lower that's all they could do. Which didn't seem like much of a solution; that's why I decided to go ahead and try stoning it. I cleaned and relubed the FCG before I called them, but it didn't help any. |
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If you already stoned the trigger RR may deny any warranty.
When you separate the upper and lower, does the trigger do the same thing? Use your thumb to catch the hammer so you don't damage your receiver. Try one more test. With the upper removed from the lower or the action open, cock the hammer, pull up the first stage, if the trigger stays in that position, then carefully touch the hammer and see if light pressure on the hammer lets the trigger reset. I had a similar problem with a two stage trigger and found that the lightest pressure on the hammer "freed" up the trigger to completely reset. I wound up cleaning the trigger assembly very well, applying grease to the contact parts and then working the trigger/hammer by hand to smooth things out. After setting/resetting the trigger several hundred times, the problem went away. |
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