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1/10/2010 2:41:08 PM EDT
Just brought my new build to the range and had  a few problems. The lower is a tactical innovations, the upper is the fully assembled  M-4 daniel defense which I purchased from PK Firearms. The ammo was Brown Bear steel case. Every 10 or 15 rounds I woud fire a round, but the next round would not chamber. I was able to pull the charging handle and continue for another 10 or 15 rounds.
I did pull the bolt once, wipe it down and re-oil and the problem disspeared for a mag or two. I had the gun wet with oil the whole time, was using different GI 30 round mags. The gun seemed to be ejecting fine, but I did not pay much attention to where the  casings landed. The bolt also failed to lock open a few times

I was using the same ammo( brown bear) in my 20 inch Oly Arms a-1 rifle. It ran perfect in the 20 inch.

Could it be possible that it has to break in?
1/10/2010 7:16:11 PM EDT
[#1]
in my experience, break in will run much smoother with brass cased ammo instead of steel cased.  let everything work in and self polish for several hundred rounds and then see if your gun will eat steel cased ammo or not.
1/11/2010 8:19:16 AM EDT
[#2]
Ditto on factory case brass ammo for break in, and since you used the turn oil, what are you using to clean and lube the rifle.

If you are going to Hoppes to clean a chamber/barrel, make sure that any residual traces of it are out of the rig (read make sure to flush it out with something like CLP).  Also, make sure that you are using a chamber scrub brush to clean the chamber.  The coating on coated ammo will be be disolved by any standard barrel cleaning solvents, and it has to be scrubbed out by hand (via the chamber brush).


Regarding lube, CLP is what you should be using to not only clean the "none bore areas", but to lube the rifle as well.  If you need a source for CLP, BreakfreeCLP in the large spray can works well, and is a value in itself (under $10 for a 16oz spray can)
1/11/2010 9:17:10 AM EDT
[#3]
I did not clean the rifle before shooting, but I did thouroughly oll it. I used CLP while at the range to keep it wet. It appeared to be short stroking, but not every round. Someome at the range told me that I should have dissassembled and cleaned/lubed the bolt before shooting. Does this ussually make a difference??
1/11/2010 10:13:27 AM EDT
[#4]
Yes, when the rifle is assembled, protective grease (and shop debris that it attacks) remain in the chamber/bore/parts; all which needs to be removed through a good cleaning before the rifle is fired.
1/11/2010 1:34:05 PM EDT
[#5]
Thanks for the info. I hope the cleaning solves my problem. I feel that you may be correct. When the gun was first fired. I fired one round, a new round chambered, but did not go off. When I inspected the primer, it was not dented. This happened for the first 4 rounds then then the problem went away. I assume that the firing pin was hanging up on grease or debris.

When I got it home and dissassembled, the firing pin did not move freely in the bolt until I cleaned it.
1/11/2010 2:13:49 PM EDT
[#6]
A new rifle should always be cleaned before initial firing.  Extra oil, preservatives and other "crud" could be in the barrel and this could cause a problem, or safety hazard, if not cleaned first.

You can also potentially effect future accuracy by shooting the barrel with all that stuff in there.

Lots of shooters want to run out and shoot their new rifle, but take time to break it down and clean it before hitting the range.
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