Warning

 

Close
Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Cancel Confirm
AR15.COM
AR Sponsor
8/18/2008 2:52:32 PM EDT
Ok so I have a S&W MP15T and it had about 1000 trouble free rounds through it. I went out last week and shot on about the second magazine it had a failure to feed every round requiring me to rack the charging handle then use the forward assist to make the round go home. I figured hell it's been riding in my truck all summer it just probably needs a good cleaning.

I took it home gave it a good cleaning oiled it up good and went out and shot it today. The first mag went great no problems, the second it started doing the same thing and did the same thing through out the day with my other 10 mags. So it can't be a mag problem right.
                        Well what do ya'll think it is?
8/18/2008 7:07:26 PM EDT
[#1]
wolf ammo or other steel cased? if so,switch up to brass ammo and let us know.
8/18/2008 7:18:28 PM EDT
[#2]
PMC Bronze I have shot about 600 rounds of it before trouble free
ETA: what is the quality of this ammo
8/19/2008 5:20:55 AM EDT
[#3]
Chamber gets cleaned with copper solvent (sweets is my choice) and a chamber brush. Once cleaned the bore and chamber are left in a dry state unless the rifle is going to be stored (CLP will work for short term, Grease for long term storage, and yes, theses need to be removed before the rifle is put back in service).



The rest of the rifle get cleaned and lubed with CLP (read upper bearing area's, including the receiver extension area and buffer as well). If you need a source for CLP, then BreakfreeCLP in the large spray can is the best buy way to procure such.

Also, while you are already reeking of CLP, pulling the mags apart and given them a good CLP cleaning is not a bad idea as well (even more so if they are new).
8/19/2008 7:50:54 AM EDT
[#4]
PMC bronze is .223, not 5.56 so it's not as hot as mil spec stuff but good ammo nonetheless.  

Need a better description of the problem...are you having trouble getting the fired case out (requiring you to use charging handle) and then resistance going into battery (forward assist)?  

How do the fired cases look?  Can you (carefully) hand cycle a few loaded rounds to see if the ramps are chewing up any part of the bullet / neck / shoulder of the cartridges when chambering?
8/19/2008 12:03:23 PM EDT
[#5]
The empty catridges were ejecting fine. The bolt would cycle back eject the empty out and the bolt would close. I would go to pull the trigger for the next shot and CLICK. I would then pull back the charging handle and realease it letting it fully "fly" forward I wasnt easing it down by no means just properly letting it go. The bolt would then hang up around the back of the cartridge. I would then push the forward assist to make the round chamber and it would I would fire and have to repeat these steps to get another round in the chamber.

As far as 223 not being as "hot" as 5.56 I understand that but I never had a problem with this ammo before.

I really don't know what to do I was hoping you guys would be like oh yea you have a problem with ______________ .This is how to fix it.
8/20/2008 11:59:30 AM EDT
[#6]
It sounds like it's short stroking.  You'll want to check your gas system for signs of leakage.  Look for soot around the front gas block and gas tube.  Also, check the gas key on the carrier to make sure it's still tight.  Check your gaskets on the rear of the bolt, make sure that the gaps in each gasket are evenly staggered around the circumference.  Last thing you might want to look for is an obstruction in the gas tube or gas key.  Let us know what you find.

If these are all okay, someone smarter than myself will have to step in....  
8/20/2008 4:28:10 PM EDT
[#7]
I'm also having short stroking problems with my M&P 15OR. I cleaned the gas key good and it still won't completely lock back on an empty mag, even with XM193.  I switched out the bolt carrier with one from a CMMG upper and ta da, it works. S&W is sending me a shipping label so I can return the weapon and have it looked over. The inside of the S&W gas key doesn't seem to have as large an opening as other gas keys, almost seems like a production flaw.
8/21/2008 10:35:15 AM EDT
[#8]
This is interesting.  It seems like there are several threads now with similar issues of the S&W.  We have several in our department and just had one go down with the same symptoms last week.  The rifle was sent back to S&W and they returned it with a clean bill of health....after several mags, it started doing the same thing.

I pulled the BCG and replaced it with a Bushmaster BCG to get rifle up and running (it ran fine after that), but still haven't resolved this to my satisfaction.

I'll be interested to see how these turn out...
8/24/2008 5:49:27 AM EDT
[#9]
hello everyone,  I also have a s&w M&P15T, and it is the worse gun I ever bought.  I have had issues with the  spent shell ever clearing the bolt,  it just turns 90 degrees and sticks in the bolt area.  I contacted s&w and sent the thing back. They felt it was a gas block issue. After  1-2 months, the gun returned.  I shoot about 50 to 60 rounds in it when it started up again.  It seems as it heats up, it gets worse.  I never thought a 90 dollar sks would be more reliable than a 1100 dollar ar-15, but it is in this case.  I have a colt ar-15 that  shoots like a top with the same ammo, 55 gr fmj winchester. I suppose I will send it back to smith and see if they can get it  right again, or am I doing something wrong?  It is such a disappointment that I fear  this gun will most likely be traded in on something else, and it will never be another smith and Wesson  ar-15.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I am not a gunshmith, but have been a Tool and Die maker for 31 years.  I don't think I am stupid and it is not rocket science either.  But something is wrong with the gas system I think.  Buying new, you should be able to shoot thousands of rounds thru that gun without any major problems, or am I  asking too much of a  expensive gun?  Help anyone????

thanks for letting me grip cause it is all I have left in me with this problem...
8/24/2008 5:58:29 AM EDT
[#10]
oh, one more thing.  Smith and Wesson  said that they changed the gas tube and gas block on my rifle.  is there an issue with aluminum gas blocks?  I heard something about Smith using  aluminum in the place of steel for the gas blocks and if that is true, could that be a factor?  I think I should have spelled gripe the right way the last post. thanks a bunch.   Bob
8/24/2008 12:16:45 PM EDT
[#11]
I was thinking about buying an M&P.  Decided to search and see what I could info I find.  
Based on this thread, I'll have to think a bit harder.  

Seems that my hard-earned cash would be better invested in another brand.  

Thanks for posting all this info and opinions.  
8/24/2008 6:18:06 PM EDT
[#12]
Lurch,  It is a fantastic looking gun and my son loves it.  I just hope it can get fixed as it should be.  If not, It will say something about S&W company.  Up to now, I thought highly of them, but I am having my doubts.  I will keep you posted on the outcome of this problem.  Bob    
8/24/2008 8:17:18 PM EDT
[#13]
I have a M&P and have put nearly 2000 rounds through it. I had a similar issue, but it was due to bad ammo.
8/25/2008 4:00:01 AM EDT
[#14]
I am going to the range with some military ammo today to see if that makes a difference.  I sure hope that is all there is to it.  If I still have a problem with short strokes, anyone have any other suggestions??? I tried Winchester ammo, and that is a problem.  Any other brands might make a difference??  
8/29/2008 5:39:23 PM EDT
[#15]
Hi all,

This is only my 2nd AR,  My first AR I had to sell after a few months with barely 500 rounds through it.  I recently bougth the M&P15T.  So forgive me but I'm still getting use to the way it funtions.  When it shoots it's SUPER ACCURATE at 100 yards.

This is what I've figured out with mines as to why it's short stroking.
I noticed that my bolt was too dry and could not spin inside the carrier correctly.  When the bolt extracts the bullet it extends out and shifts counter clockwise moving the 6 o'clock gear to 5 o'clock position leaving a space at the 6 position.  When the bolt was on its way back the bolt comes back fully extracted still... not retracted the way it's supposed to and since the 6 o'clock gear is in the 5 o'clock posiotion leaving six o'clock empty it misses the bullet and scratches it... failing to feed.  Don't know if it's just my bolt that needs to be super wet, or it's out of spec.  Even when I move the bolt in and out with my hands it feels a little snug not very free.  

I have a few questions I hope some of you can answer about the AR Bolts.  I have searched but did not find anyone really describing the way a bolt should be.

Should it move freely inside the carrier? or should it have a little tension?  Could It be that it's out of spec?  Do any of you put alot of lube in the bolt carrier or not much?

Thanks!
8/30/2008 4:17:30 AM EDT
[#16]

I have a few questions I hope some of you can answer about the AR Bolts.  I have searched but did not find anyone really describing the way a bolt should be.

Should it move freely inside the carrier? or should it have a little tension?  Could It be that it's out of spec?  Do any of you put alot of lube in the bolt carrier or not much?

Thanks!


Pull the bolt carrier group out of the rifle.  Push the bolt in so it is retracted.  Hold the back of the carrier in one hand and give it good "flick" with your wrist.  If the bolt slides into the extended position you are good.  If it stays retracted.....possible problem.

Brian
8/30/2008 4:39:30 PM EDT
[#17]
Brian,

Thanks for the tip!  I followed your instructios and yes it does slide to the extended position.  I also went to the range this morning, had a little CLP in the bolt and it was great up to like 160 rounds and then got my 1st FTF, don't know if it was the Remingnton ammo I was using.  So I grabbed the clp and squirted some more into the bolt and I was able to finish the rest of the 140 rounds without anymore FTF's.  The bolt is dripping wet but it works well.  I was thinking getting a new bolt but I recently read that LMT makes this bolt and that's as good as it gets.  So I guess I'll just keep using it very well lubed.

Thanks again!!!

height=8
Quoted:
height=8
I have a few questions I hope some of you can answer about the AR Bolts.  I have searched but did not find anyone really describing the way a bolt should be.

Should it move freely inside the carrier? or should it have a little tension?  Could It be that it's out of spec?  Do any of you put alot of lube in the bolt carrier or not much?

Thanks!


Pull the bolt carrier group out of the rifle.  Push the bolt in so it is retracted.  Hold the back of the carrier in one hand and give it good "flick" with your wrist.  If the bolt slides into the extended position you are good.  If it stays retracted.....possible problem.

Brian
9/3/2008 7:41:56 AM EDT
[#18]
Well, I just ordered a LMT auto BCG for my M&P 15OR. I wanted to upgrade the bolt to one with MPI anyway, so hopefully this will fix my short stroking (see previous post in this thread). If this doesn't work I'm sending the rifle back.
9/14/2008 4:13:53 PM EDT
[#19]
Well, I finally got to the range today. The LMT bolt carrier ran slicker than snot. Definitely fixed the short stroking experienced with the S&W BCG.
AR Sponsor