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Posted: 8/15/2008 10:53:27 PM EDT
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I have a RRA lower that I put the JP Enterprise spring set to lower my trigger weight. I was using the lower on just a .223, but I now own a RRA 6.8 upper. When I went to the range, some of the rounds did not fire after being struck by the hammer. I believe that the JP spring is too weak and is causing the problem. It is safe to just put the stock hammer spring in the trigger group and leave the rest of the JP kit in the group? |
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I placed the original hammer spring back into the trigger assembly. It seems like it makes the trigger a little heavier. It is still way lighter than with all the stock springs, but it is heavier than the trigger with all the JP springs. Makes it middle of the road. I have not been to the range to test it. I just want to make shure that it is safe with the stock hammer spring and the JP trigger spring. The gun will be used by my 7 year old this year on his first annual deer hunt in Texas. I will be with him on all his hunts, but I was just worried about the safty. |
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I called Brownell's today and they confirmed that re-installing the factory hammer spring but leaving in the lighter JP Trigger and Disconnector Springs will be safe and functional. It will result in a heavier pull weight (as you noticed/mentioned in your post). I am glad to note from your post that it is still a better pull weight than all factory springs.
I called Brownell's and asked them this question as I was having light strikes on some milsurp ammo at the range on my AR10 and I had heard of light strikes on some milsup ammo with the JP Springs. I am looking into installing a speed hammer from JP to resolve the issue rather than going back to the factory hammer spring. I haven't decided to until I research it some more, but that might be an option you could look into. It is safe to to go back to factory hammer spring as you inquired, though. NA26 |
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Quoted:
I called Brownell's today and they confirmed that re-installing the factory hammer spring but leaving in the lighter JP Trigger and Disconnector Springs will be safe and functional. It will result in a heavier pull weight (as you noticed/mentioned in your post). I am glad to note from your post that it is still a better pull weight than all factory springs. I called Brownell's and asked them this question as I was having light strikes on some milsurp ammo at the range on my AR10 and I had heard of light strikes on some milsup ammo with the JP Springs. I am looking into installing a speed hammer from JP to resolve the issue rather than going back to the factory hammer spring. I haven't decided to until I research it some more, but that might be an option you could look into. It is safe to to go back to factory hammer spring as you inquired, though. NA26 That 'speed hammer' has less mass and will NOT smack the firing pin as hard as a regular one would. Swapping the hammer spring back to the stock one is a better solution and has worked fine for me as well... Think about the weight of the hammer and how it acts when striking the pin... |
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Are you sure the speed hammer will not help?
The force the hammer will strike the firing pin with, is the kinetic energy imparted to the hammer from the spring. With a lighter hammer, the velocity is going to be much higher. K.E. (kinetic energy) = 1/2 M(mass)*V*V (velocity squared). So kinetic energy will increase much faster since the velocity part of the equation is squared, I agree the mass will be less, but if the hammer is moving enough faster, the actual force from the hammer on the firing pin to the primer with may be higher. |
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My take alone, so take it with a grain of salt.
Trigger spring is very little of the math of pull weight. Lower it too much and any fouling in the FCP trigger pin area is going to cause a trigger return/reset problem. Hammer spring is much more of the pull tension weight and where I like to address the issue. Regarding lightened hammer with lightened hammer springs, most of the time it is not the mass/tension of such being the problem, but the protrusion of the FP out the bolt face that needs to be addressed. Working range for protrusion is .032 to .037, and with the lightened units, making sure that you have the full .037 protrusion resolves the issues on even the hardest of primers. |
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Quoted: This is not correct. jepp2's response is right on the money. You can swing a telephone pole or a baseball bat at the same speed, hit the ball and the ball will fly the same distance. A speed hammer's sole purpose is to speed the hammer up to increase the chance of better ignition. I'm pretty sure that is the way JP markets their product also. Of course putting the factory spring will do the same thing as it is a stronger spring and will also speed the hammer up.Quoted: I called Brownell's today and they confirmed that re-installing the factory hammer spring but leaving in the lighter JP Trigger and Disconnector Springs will be safe and functional. It will result in a heavier pull weight (as you noticed/mentioned in your post). I am glad to note from your post that it is still a better pull weight than all factory springs. I called Brownell's and asked them this question as I was having light strikes on some milsurp ammo at the range on my AR10 and I had heard of light strikes on some milsup ammo with the JP Springs. I am looking into installing a speed hammer from JP to resolve the issue rather than going back to the factory hammer spring. I haven't decided to until I research it some more, but that might be an option you could look into. It is safe to to go back to factory hammer spring as you inquired, though. NA26 That 'speed hammer' has less mass and will NOT smack the firing pin as hard as a regular one would. Swapping the hammer spring back to the stock one is a better solution and has worked fine for me as well... Think about the weight of the hammer and how it acts when striking the pin... |
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