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Posted: 11/19/2007 6:02:58 AM EDT
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Here's my setup: Stag Arms upper, 16" bbl, carbine gas system Double Star Lower, CMMG Parts kit Mags: PMag, USGI (D&H) Initially the problem I had after assembly was that each time fired, the casing would eject but the next round would not feed. This last time out, I fired several hundred rounds (before having fired about 40-50 max). I had replaced the buffer spring, hoping that would be the issue. I have two buffers, I assume they are carbine buffers because they came with 6 pos carbine stocks (both new). At first, it fired a mag or two without issue. Then the same problem started up again. I tried the other buffer, same issue. To make matters worse, I started getting double feeds now as well. The problem isn't as frequent anymore - I can sometimes go a whole mage or two before it craps on itself again. I'm sure you'll agree this is still unacceptable. Any help would be greatly appreciated...other wise I'll have some AR parts for sale soon! |
As far as I can tell, it's not doing anything to the next round. You get the ejected case, go for your 2nd shot, click...pull back charging handle...empty chamber. |
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Distance of the ejected case? If 10 to 15 feet, you have normal cycle speed. If less than this (a foot or two), and you have a rifle that is short stroking. Regarding short stoking, it could be a clogged or leaking gas system, an action that is not correctly lube with CLP for break in, wrong or weak ammo being used, action binding (hammer wedging), to even the chamber not correctly cleaned or just rough to begin with (reamer marks or rough plating in the chamber). Get back to us with the configuration of the rifle, the ammo be used, the way that you are cleaning and lubing the rifle, and even the conformation that the rifle was assembled correctly (how-to manuals are on the start page bottom left if you need to go back and confirm this). |
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It's spitting the cases pretty far, seems to be the same distance I remember my M16 tossing them. Cleaning with CLP. A few wet patches down the barrel, a few strokes with a nylon bore brush, then the chamber brush, then clean up with dry patches and q-tips. One final wet patch before putting away. Light touch of CLP on the bolt and bolt carrier. As far as I know the rifle is assembled correctly. Granted it was my first time doing one from scratch, but in the end everything looks good. Ammo I've used: Remington UMC .223 FMJ Ultramax Reload .223 SP Federal .223 HP All ammo *seems* to give about the same results. |
How is it not feeding now, Top round in the mag not being stripped at all, Top round in the mag being stripped, but the carrier jamming up with just the tip of the bullet in the feed ramps (carrier locked up via the hammer catching the FP collar), Top round in the mag being stripped, with the tip of the round well past the feed ramps, but the rim just not clearing the mag lips (weak recoil spring or burs on the mag feed lips_. Bolt just not locking up/home (head space problems or weak recoil spring), Spent case left in the action, and just binding up the works (extractor dropping the round before the end of rearward stroke (not enough tension and/ or a bur on the extractor), and it (spent case) and live round jamming up the works. The mag double feeding two live rounds at once? |
Yes, this happened several times with both the PMAGs and D&H USGI mags. |
Just Note: When the catch is installed correctly, the end of the threaded section will be flush with the face of the button (read some times you have to rotate the button 180* in the receiver to thread correctly). Also, have you tried to just pulling the mags apart and give then a good cleaning with CLP. |
| Just wanted to follow up on this. I tightened the mag catch (did have to flip the button 180 degrees). Finally made it to the range yesterday. Fired 8 mags without issue, so the problem appears to be resolved. I appreciate your help guys, amazing something so simple was causing my so much damn grief! |
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Newbie here, not sure if this is an issue or it suppose to happen...or if i need to tighten the mag catch....here's the scenario: -rifle's cocked and on safe. -i put in a magazine, and i pull the charging handle to chamber a round -but the magazine falls out. tight the mag catch? i notice sometime when pulling the charging handle back, can't get a round to chamber. -total newbie, my 1st firearm...haven't even gotten a chance to take it to the range yet. It's a Stag model2. thanks for any info! |
First off, Welcome to the site!!! As for loading a full mag into the well with the B/C locked home, after putting the mag in the well, give the bottom of the mag a good palm slap to confirm that it's seated/locked home. To add, when you charge the weapon, do not ride the charging handle back forward. Pull the CH all the way back and let it go/fly. |
Thanks Dano523, I'll wait for some dummy rounds to come in before i try it again. |
Don't play that game!!!! You can dry fire the rifle all you want on a empty chamber, and snap caps just end up getting scratched to hell when reloaded too many times through the rig, and then to just stick in the chamber. Live fire is going to be the key to if the rifle is functioning correctly once the rig has been broken in from such. |
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i couldn't wait, so i tried it out. I slapped the mag in, and it did hold...is this normal? or was i babying my rifle too much? I chambered a few rounds wid the charging handle and it worked great! a few more questions if you don't mind. what do you mean snap caps? primer? because i do notice there are lil dimples after chambering, i've read it's normal. I do notice the actual bullet has some scratches on it after chambering, is that normal? These "dimpled" rounds should be ok to fire? Thanks, GT |
Yes, you typically have to slap that puppy. It's a serivce rifle, not a Weatherby  Snap caps are practice rounds that can be used for dry firing. He's just saying you don't need them. On an autoloading weapon, they are fairly rough on the cartridges, so yes, you'll often see dimples or small scuffs, etc after chambering.
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