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Posted: 12/19/2006 10:47:44 PM EDT
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Hello all. First time posting here. Be gentle please. Hope I am in the right place. Purchased a new DPMS AP4 Carbine directly from DPMS a week ago. I am now in process of tricking it out and and adding the goodies to it. I purchased a new sling end plate adapter that replaces the end plate. I have the original CAR Stock wrench and another M4 stock wrench I picked up at the gun show this past weekend in Dayton, OH. The problem is that the lock ring is so tight... it will not budge at all. I have an armorers block in a vice with the lower attached to the block. Stock end mounted to the right side of the vice and am pulling the M4 stock wrench towards me. Following the threads this should be the direction of the threads for removal... Right?? My bench is moving from this... and its a huge toolbench! Do they locktite this nut on there? Is it really supposed to be this tight?? I have placed the wrench on the nut and even gone so far as to try striking the wrench with a hammer. Is there something I am missing. I am removing the buffer and spring before trying to loosen this. I had an armalite AR-15 back a few years ago removed the stock once for a thorough cleaning and never had this much trouble with the lock nut. Any info anone has would be a great help. One more thing. Has anyone else experienced slow shipping with DPMS? I ordered this rifle the day before Thanksgiving and was told it would ship the Friday after (2 days later). After several calls over the next 3 weeks, being given 4 new expected delivery dates (it will ship early next week) and a threat to cancel the order, they finally shipped it out. It cost me an add'l $85 for overnight as I purchased it to take out of town that weekend. I still have an order that as of now is almost 3 weeks old waiting for a Handguard tool and a delrin punch that I have yet to see. I love the rifle, the quality seems excellent but the customer service from them has left a bad taste in my mouth now. This locknut problem is just another issue I am getting more and more agry about. I should have cancelled the order and just went with the RRA or the Mp15 I wanted to begin with. Thanks for any hepl on this one! Joey |
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www.gggaz.com/index.php?id=138&parents=38,48 Or if the castle nut is not staked, Heat the castle nut with a torch (keep it moving so you don't discolor the anodizing) until you smell a sweet smell (600*). If the castle nut was loctite'd, this will break the bond. Next, use a three-point carbine stock wrench, and add a cheater bar/extension to it. Now with the lower in the vise block, and backing up the receiver extension so the mag well is not taking the full brunt, spin the castle nut back (counter clockwise when looking from the butt stock to the muzzle). And if the castle nut was installed with loctite, bank on the receiver extension being installed the same. Oh, and if it was staked, pretty much the same drill, but no torch needed. |
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Dano, Thanks for the tip. I used a heat gun to warm up the lock nut. After it got heated up it came right off... Noticed what looked like silver graphite on the lower side of the buffer once I got the nut off. I am assuming this is the lock-tite that they used. Thanks again! |
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I am having the same problem, and have stripped one of the catches for the wrench already. I tried heating the ring with a bernzomatic for 15 minutes or so and then going at it with no luck. My lower and stock are DPMS also. How can I tell if the ring is "staked" or not. Please help. If I can't get it off, I will just find another one and Dremel this one off. |
Mine had a residue of silver graphite looking loc-tite on the bottom side of the buffer tube. But it was not staked. Purchased mine in Nov 06 so if yours is close, id say its not staked. Try holding a hair dryer to it especially the under side. I heated the tube with the heat gun as well. Good luck! |
Me personally, before I got a dremel close to the buffer and reciever, I'd put it ina vice block, heat it up really good and put a pair of vice grips to it. Run the hair dryer on it for about 5 mins or so to really get it warm. I dunno. I just dont have enough confidence in my hands to put a dremel that close. |
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I got it off. Ended up buying a bench vise and just used a pipe wrench to get it off. A little heat and a 10 inch pipe wrench got it with no problem. Now....I knew to watch for a spring that was going to pop out when I took off the plate. I pulled the spring out to make sure it didn't shoot out into nowhere. I didn't know that there was something else that would fall out of the hole. I assume some kind of pin? Anyone know what this looks like because that is now gone and I don't even know what I am looking for. |
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