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Posted: 9/7/2006 8:40:17 AM EDT
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I'm having extraction problems with both my ARs. One is a CAR built on a PWA lower, the other in a PWA A-1 lower with a M&A 20" A-2 upper. The CAR has a brand new Bushmater bolt, while the A-@ has the bolt that came with it. Both guns fail to extract; it could be one round out of a mag, or it may shoot a couple of mags and then have a failure. The mags I use are new OKay or Brownell mags. Ammo has been some Guatamalian M193, American Eagle or Win M855. I have had it suggested to use a #60 O-ring on my extractors. I haven't tried that yet, but any other suggestions? Thanks for the help. |
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With extractor in hand, Check the gripping edges of the extractor claw, and the ends of the case rim relief channel. If milling burs are found, remove them with a stone or small jewelers files. As for the O-ring and a new barrel, it can't hurt, and if it does solve the problem, then after a few hundred rounds, pull the O-ring (band-aid) to see if it is still needed. If it is, then it's time for a new extractor spring. As for a wolf extra power spring and an O- ring too, if you use this combo, be forewarned the extractor is under so much tension, than on the load/bolt lock up, it can slightly bends the case rim forward (extractor climbing over the top of the rim) and the slightly bent spent case rim can be problematic if you own a tight case holder in your reloading equipment. |
| Once you have tried all the band-aid fixes and want to fix your rifles correctly and permanently so you won't be plagued by extraction problems down the road rebarrel with chrome lined barrels. The military learned that in the late 60's. Particularly for rapid or automatic fire the chrome lined barrel is an absolute necessity for reliability. |
Chrome plating it's self has nothing to do with the rifle ejecting or not, it's the overall chamber conditions, and yes there are currently more than a few plated type barrels that have problems ejecting brass. Trust me, more than a few of us here how could send you new chrome plated barrels that are a nightmares due to the chamber grooving at reaming, and just plated over the mess without correcting the problem, which just puts the last nail in the barrel's coffin. The band-aid method of using a O-ring is to allow the chamber to self polish out through live fire for a few hundred rounds without extraction problems, then the O-ring is pulled and thrown away once the barrel has worked out it's own problems. |
No, the buying market has gone from accepting the norm of 3MOA on a battle/service rifles/barrels, to expecting their range/safe queen specials to print SUB MOA with even the worst of ammo. Because of this, the commercial manufactures have chambered the barrels on the tighter side (cross wall dimensions) to one up each other in the accuracy department. Simply put, if I'm shooting 600-yard match, then a tack driver match barrel is a must, but if the rifle is going to be a service/duty weapon, a 4 MOA barrel with a looser chamber to instill reliability during adverse conditions still puts then all in the same hole at 10' for the full mag burst if needed. |
OK...I get the gist of that, and it makes sense.....but why don't they beef up their extractors to make them work more reliably |
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That's the $64,000 question.. IMO, it may have to do with the spring suppliers - there's probably still tons of standard springs in wherehouses, and not all rifles are getting this since I suspect it may also have something to do with the plating thickness, which can vary (in chrome lined barrels at least). So not too much motivation I guess. I was getting it with my new Bushy, and I just stuck a Wolff spring in there and it's been 100% since. But others I know who picked up Bushys too never had a problem at all. |
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