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Posted: 6/12/2006 5:58:21 PM EDT
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I have a WOA tunned RRA two stage trigger in a RRA lower that the pinns keep walking on me. The pinst a tight and are hard to push back in so I know they are not loose. They do not rotate inside their respective holes. I tried reversing their direction as well with no results. Is there anything else I can do? |
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I was going to start a new thread but will just hi-jack this one. On the trigger pins walking theme. Anyone used these  Sold here; Brownells Might solve my problem. Just an older receiver and pins walking out on me. |
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The pins have two annular groves. The outer grove is used to retain the trigger pin via the hammer spring leg resting in the groove (read the hammer spring legs go on top of the trigger pin, not below it resting on the receiver cavity bottom). Now sometimes the hammer spring leg is too thick, or the spring has been tweaked/lightened and the leg will not rest in the groove. If the spring leg is too thick, then it came be filed down to edge point the bottom of it to keep it in the groove. If the spring legs have been tweaked, then they should have been bent at the end of the coil and not down the leg. Bending the spring legs in the middle section of the leg only cants the end of the leg upwards, and when the trigger is pulled, the edge of the C channel on the trigger (the releif cut for the spring) will lift the spring out of the groove. Now in regards to the center annular groove of the pins, this is for the hammer center J spring that is contained within the hammer. If he hammer pin is walking out, chances are the J spring has been lost, and a new one will need to be installed (don't forget to peen the spring to retain it in the hammer). As for an older receiver, again with the springs correctly installed, the pins are going to turn with the parts (pins turning is normal), but the tension of the springs in the annular grooves is going to retain the pins in the receiver. Simple put, I have wrenched on receiver that have seen hundreds of thousands of rounds, and without the FCG installed, you can slide the pins into one side of the receiver, blow hard, and shoot the pins out the other side. The looseness of the holes have no bearing on the pins being retained in the receiver, it is the spring tension of the trigger leg and J spring in/against the pin grooves that keeps the pins in the receiver. And, as for the reinforced trigger pins (the side bars) with side set screws, then only time that I suggest them is for the guys running blow-back 9MM rigs since the rig (action) is just brutal on the trigger pin. |
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Several years ago, before I learned about this site and a whole bunch about my rifle, I had this same trigger pin problem. I confess, I had been playing and thought I had everything back together right. Someone at the range took the time to explain this same issue to me and show me how the legs of the spring were supposed to be. I have never had a similar problem since! Before you go buying extra parts, make sure the parts you've got are in the right places. |
Yes yes... but has anyone here used these 
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Yes, more that a few of us use them on blow back rigs, or on Form 4 RR's to prevent the FCG holes from obliging over hundred of thousands of rounds. The strong point to the system is that the hammer pin is reinforced by the trigger pin, and if/when you snap the hammer pin on the SMG's/ blow back actions, you may still be in the hunt by the pin being retained/held in place. Bottom line is the system was designed not to retain the pins, but to reinforce them. The 9mm back action uses the mass of the hammer against a non-ramped carrier as part of the equation to hold the bolt against the back of the barrel breach at ignition. This means unlike a gas action bolt slowly unlocks and gently lowering the hammer via the ramped carrier, the square edge carrier whips the hammer back and puts a great deal of tension on the hammer pin it's self. Note: I brought this up before, but will state it again on the system. With the pins being retained by the end screws, neither of the pins should be annular grooved. The hammer spring leg does not need to ride in any groove, and since the hammer pin is being retained, the J spring can be removed from the hammer, and would decrease friction against the retained stationary pin. Granted I haven't read about anyone snapping a hammer pin on the unit, the lack of annular grooves would produce stronger pins. |
Um, not sure if your referring to me?? Im just getting the standard size, my trigger is actually a Jewel.
referring to Tight-Line |
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