Hookecho, where to begin?
B/C was new and looks about right for the amount of rounds you put down range
BUT, the retard that installed the key was clueless.
First, use acetone or finger hail polish remover and clean off the loctite that is littering the B/C. Next check the allen screws to confirm that they have been torque to 35 in lbs, and stake the carrier key (there is a topic posted in the main section of the trouble shooting forum that will cover staking the key).
Next on the top 10 count down is the use of Rem oil in the rifle. Rem oil with teflon is a LP only, and about as useful as LSA. What is lacking in the lube is a real time cleaner (Read CLP stands for cleaner, lubricant, and protection). Simple put, the use of standard gun oils does nothing to dissolve the gunpowder fouling as it build up in the rifle, which results in the rifle jamming very quickly. Wal-Mart sells the large spray cans of BreakfreeCLP for around $8.00. If you don't find it in the sporting goods section, look in automotive.
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Basic lowdown on a quick clean and lube.
Pull the B/C from the rifle.
Pull the FP retaining pin, and drop the FP, cam, and bolt out of the carrier. Push the extractor pin out, and pull the extractor. Spray the whole mess down with a coat of CLP, and threw then in the CLP cap to soak.
Now using a copper solvent like Sweets, clean the copper out of the bore and the bake on fouling from the chamber. Once the bore/chamber is clean, spray CLP down the gas tube, and a good shot into the barrel extension. Now dip a cleaning patch in the CLP (from the cap that the bolt parts are soaking in), and wipe down the inside of the upper receiver to remove the old fouled CLP. Now pull the buffer, and wipe it and the spring down. If these parts are not heavy fouled, then don't worry about the inside of the receiver extension, and just put the lightly coated CLP buffer and spring back in the rifle.
Now breaking out the Q-tips, start with the outide of the gas tube and work your way forward/down cleaning the barrel extension. Once you have the front section of the upper cleaned, give the bore one more shot of CLP, then chase the mess with clean patches to drive all the goop forward and out of the muzzle. This flushed out any Bore cleaner/solvent that you might have left in the chamber/barrel as well as the old fouled CLP that you have pushed into the chamber. Finish the upper off, by attacking the muzzle inside the FS with q-tips to get as much as you can of fouling cleaned from it.
On the lower, a few Q-tips soaked in CLP on the FCG should resolve any fouling located there.
Back to the B/C, By now the CLP has disolved most of the fouling and it should wipe off, but in needed, use your finger nail to get the fouling off the bugle section on the back of the bolt (it should flake right off). Since the CLP has soaked into the gas rings, don't worry about pulling them, just wipe off what fouling you can. Now with the B/C back together, give a quick shot of CLP down the key to lube the inner gas section, then give the rest of the B/C a light coat (on everything), and put it back in the upper. With the rifle back together, work the action a few times to migrate the CLP, the finish off the cleaning by wiping down the outside of the rifle with a rag (if the outer parts are dry, a quick shot of CLP will give them a protective coat before the wipe down). To really sum up cleaning the rifle, only the bore/chamber gets cleaned, and the rest of the rifle just gets an oil change.