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Posted: 2/1/2005 9:38:57 PM EDT
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Hey guys, I tried to find the answer to my question in the search function, but after much frustration I gave up. Anyhow, I have a rifle that was sold to me as an RRA M4A3 configured gun. I have since come to the conclusion that it is actually just a RRA lower on a Model 1 kit. But that's a separate issue. The problem that I'm having with it is the trigger is just too damn hard. It breaks nice and clean, but I really have to press on it. I'd estimate the pull to be at least 7-8 lbs. After a few mags the finger pressure becomes distracting because of the fatigue. Is there an easy way to lighten this trigger up? A lighter spring perhaps? I wouldn't mind putting in different trigger parts if that's what this is going to take, but I'd rather not have to go out and buy an expensive target grade trigger if I don't have to. This gun is just for plinking and stress-relief blastin'. Other than the trigger issue the gun is quite accurate and has functioned 100% with the three different types of ammo that I have run through it, including Wolf. I thought the trigger might break in eventually but I've put at least 500 rnds through it now with no change. I'm sure this has been covered many times, but after spending 20 mins looking I just broke down and posted. Thanks for the help! |
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any change to the FCG short of the dubious practice of polishing the T/H pins can lead to errors in timing which on a bad day will cause a runaway gun. make sure that the parts can move freely in the lower and that the hammer displays a positive angle when then trigger is pulled. |
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There's always this old standby alteration: www.geocities.com/molonlaberkba/triggerjob.html Mike |
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Tweak - the FCG operates smoothly, there doesn't seem to be anything binding. I agree with you on the drawbacks of taking metal off the FCG surfaces by polishing, or changing angles. I've heard too many stories about folks getting in trouble over that. I'm not sure what you mean by a "positive angle" on the hammer though. mr_wilson - I might give that a try. It's worth a shot anyway since the springs are so cheap. Have you tried it? Does anyone have any feedback on that JP Reduced Power spring kit? Thanks for the replies guys. |
Yes I have used this method on several AR15s and never had a FTF, it works. Mike ps - a spare parts kit is advisable, I always kept the stock parts and used the Bushmaster spare parts items I have, incase I wanted to sell the lower later. |
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Yep, when I pull the trigger the hammer does rotate just slightly down before it releases. I've never really taken an AR15 apart to see how the parts interrelate and function. Now I understand why the hammer spring and the trigger spring both add to trigger pull weight. I've built FALs, AK-47s, AK-74s, 1911s, and 1919A4s, all from kits, but I have never built an AR15. So it has always been a bit of a mystery to me how they go together. I keep promising myself that I'll build one but I just never get around to it. Probably because I don't want to shell out money for specialty tools. Thanks for all the help on this guys. I went ahead and followed the directions in mr_wilson's link above. I didn't notice any smoothing out of the trigger pull, probably because the parts have already worn together and is very smooth, and it is not as light as I would like it, but it is noticeably lighter and should be more pleasant to shoot. I think if I want it any lighter I'll have to spend some money on more expensive components. Is that JP Reduced Power spring kit worth the $10? Or is it doing basically the same thing that I've already done? |
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