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3/26/2003 12:10:22 PM EDT
I recently bought a colt match target competition.  I have not gone shooting yet becuase the only rifle range near me (NJ) that I know of you need to become a member.  So I have to wait until the first sunday in April.  Now I'm going to stop w/ the blabbing.

The rear site elevation knob does not have the 8/3 setting.  Instead it has a 6/3 setting.  I have turned the knob all the way to the left so it is at it's lowest elevation and it is now on the 6/3.  How many clicks do i need to turn it to get it zeroed at 300meters? If someone could help me i would appriciate it.  Thank you

Craig
3/26/2003 1:16:18 PM EDT
[#1]
What type of shooting are you going to be doing???  

This will answer a lot of questions about your zero(s).
3/26/2003 1:31:15 PM EDT
[#2]
As of now I will be shooting at a range (sillouettes/targets) that has a 100meter, 250m, and 300m.  I would like to have it set similar to the military rifle that i shoot (M16A2 is set at 8/3 and one click to the right) since I alerady know how and where to shoot at different distances.

Hope to hear from you soon!  
3/26/2003 1:58:53 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Ditto on the advice
The TM calls for the folowing:
Run the rear down to it lowest point.
The 8/3 mark houd lineup with the witness mark on the receiver.  If it doesn't, then moveit around to the 8/3, insert a 1/16" allen wrench into the hole in front of the peep site (with the smaller peep UP)and looen the allen screww 3-4 turns, holding the allen wrench in place.
Rotate the lower ring of the windage counterclokwise until it bottoms.  Re-tighten the allen screw.You are now at the 300 meter setting and bottomed out.
Set the front ite so that the top of the post is 5mm above the surface.
This is your military mechanical Zero.
You should be good to go at 25 yds. (They use meters, but yards are close enough for this)
View Quote


Myself, I would change out the elevation knob/wheel to a 1/8" non-marked type, and then zero the rifle for the different set ranges. As I zeroed each point, I would then a sharpie felt tip pen and mark the wheel for the different distances.

Also, I start the elevation knob off three clicks up, then set the front sight to get me close and finish off with the rear sight until I dead nuts center. By having a couple clicks up at the preset first zero, you have some correction room later to lower the impact if you shoot with the wind at your back or shoot at a warmer time (the hotter it gets, the faster the bullet), with out having to screw around with the front sight.

Hope this helps.
3/29/2003 7:52:08 AM EDT
[#4]
Ok - I don't know if I asked this question but - What is the difference between an 8/3 and a 6/3.  Are they at the same elevation or do you have to click left more to go up.

 My guess is I have to click left until the 6/3 has gone completely around.  (thats just based on my guess of the distance of the gap of how high up it goes but I fell that I am wrong.)



Craig
3/29/2003 8:23:48 AM EDT
[#5]
No, the 3 is for the large aperture, your battle sight.  When you flip the rear sight blade to the small aperture, you have just changed for the 600 mark/range.

The two apertures (rear sight peeps) are drilled at different heights, and the combo/numbers jive with each one of the rear sight blade apertures (peeps).
3/29/2003 11:02:29 AM EDT
[#6]
I'm not talking about the battle sights.  I'm just wondering my elevation knob says 6/3 not 8/3.  I know the rifle assigned to me (My military M4) the elevation knob is 8.3 and one click to the left.  I don't know what to set this elevation knob on since it is 6/3 and each click is a half click.

As of now, the elevation knob is clicked all the way down to the right and it stoped at 6/3.  Where do I go from here?
3/29/2003 12:57:47 PM EDT
[#7]
Craig, you have lost me, and feel that we are going in circles.

1. Are you trying to just zero the rifle for 100 meters.

2. Trying to understand why the knob is marked 6/3. The rifle zeroed at 300 meters with the large peep, when the rear blade is flipped to the small peep, will be zeroed for 600 meters (if you are using ammo that is calibrated to the sight). When the rear sight blade was made, the offset of the two peeps (hole positioning on the two blade) was made tighter than on an 8/3 rear sight blade set. Also, with the rifle battle zeroed at the 300-meter sight, then rifle shoots flat enough to hit a human size target from 100 to 300 meters

3. Trying to use the numbers on the wheel to change the zero on the rifle, once the rifle has been zeroed for the 300-meter range?


4. Setting up the rifle to shoot target, and trying to figure if you can use the numbers on the wheel for the set ranges.

5. None of the above, and I am wondering aimlessly, with out understanding what you’re asking.
3/29/2003 2:44:17 PM EDT
[#8]
I think i'm looking for number 3.

I'm trying to zero the rifle to shoot at a 300m range.  Once it's set at 300m I'm good.  I'm just trying to figure out what to set the elevation nob to zero.  

(this way I can shoot at 300m targets.)

Hope this helps explain what i'm looking for.


Craig
3/29/2003 5:44:23 PM EDT
[#9]
[url]http://groups.msn.com/TheMarylandAR15ShootersSite/zeroingmethods.msnw[/url]
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