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Posted: 2/22/2003 7:18:01 AM EDT
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The trigger pin of my preban eagle will not stay in place. the legs of the hammer springs are resting in the groove of the pin but it still walks. Anyone have any ideas? Should I replace the pin? |
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Retched_Rick, If the pin is new, it should be fine. Chances are the hammer spring legs may have been tweaked, and when you pull the trigger, the C-cut on the ends of the hammer is lifting the spring out of the channel. Swing the lower open, and then check the spring against the end C-cuts when you pull the trigger. Confirm that that the spring legs stay inside the slot in the trigger pin and are not lifted out due to the edge of the c-cuts. Also, if you mean that the pin will slightly wonder in the receiver, that is normal on a stock spring, but you don't have to live with it. What you can do is slightly bend the spring leg (very ends of the legs) to press against the sides of the receiver. This will keep slight tension on pin and center the trigger/pin in the receiver. Don't go buck wild, you only want slight side pressure, and not enough to allow the spring leg to walk out the pin slot. Dano |
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Dano, Thanks for the response. The pin actually walked out of the trigger pin hole while rapid firing. As you can imagine the rifle was rendered useless. I had to pop open the lower, release the hammer into the fired poistion and push the pin back in place. I will chek it out per your dirction and post the result. |
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The only problem with the E ring type is when the pins spin (they do), they will rub the anodizing off the receiver underneath the e-clips. The better solution if your going to run retaining pins, is to use the type with the reinforced bars on the sides. Granted that they may over kill for all but the 9mm, but the design does not allow the pins to spin, and reinforce the hammer pin, via the sidebars. If you use this type, there is not wear to the outside of the receiver. Dano |
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Run with what Dano said and if the spring is jumping out of the groove in the pin then you can either; change out the pin if the groove appears shallow, SLIGHTLY deepen the annular groove in it, or cut the pertinent area on the hammer spring so that it engages the groove better. Check the groove in the pin first tho, sometimes the parking (or plain old maker's error)leaves the groove shallow. Sometimes you'll find hammer springs made from a thicker gage wire and they won't stay in the grooves. |
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Considering that I have internally shimmed all my triggers/hammers to take out the horizontal drift of the parts, for me it wouldn’t work. It would require that I remove the current shims, and replace them with the E-clips, which would need to be lapped to the correct thickness to work both as a shim and a retainer. To add to the problem, the pins would still turn, and now the internal anodizing would be scraped and start binding up my shims/pins, due to the tight tolerances. Also, due to the deep slot needed for the E clip, and the pressure points being outside of the added slot, the pin would stand a greater chance of snapping in half at the added E clip groove. As Tweak pointed out, the stock system works great, but sometimes due to shitty parts, the pin/spring width needs to be fixed to work correctly. But, if you can come up with a system that would work, by all means, go for it!!! You would be surprised on what you can design and sell. Hell, If anyone would have told me that you could market a set trigger system for a AK rifle a few years ago, I would have told them that they were crazy. Now looking back, Ron has made a killing selling his Red Star triggers for the rifles. I just goes to show that if I would had traded in the Magic 8 ball for a Crystal ball, I may have been rich and retired by now. Dano |
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