I just bought a new PWA AR-15, so far i have shot 14 rounds through it and it hasnt cycled one time. Most of the time it wont even eject the spent round. This is my first AR so i dont know if i got riped off or if there is a simple way to fix it please help. Thanks

What kind of ammo you using?

First, check to see if the bolt carrier key screws are tight.
Out of curiosity, what kind of ammo are you using?

I would check the ammo first,and make sure you are not using anything but brass.Second i would check the mag,if it is an aftermarket,they are the usual suspect. thirdly,check the bolt/carrier assembly for loosness between the bolt and carrier/what i mean here is the bolt should not slide in and out like a greased pole,there should be a bit of resistance if not,you may have a used bolt with bad gas rings.the last thing i would check would be the gas port,but this should be done by a knowledgeable gunsmith.

Well dude:  Its not "new", just new to you.  PWA went bankrupt and its assets were bought up by RRA.  Unless by some freak accident a dealer never sold it until now? Since it is very likey to be a pre-ban but could be post ban, a partial ser# would help, also the particulars about its configuration.  Whose upper, BBL length, stock, etc... I just built a low# PWA with a "new RRA mid length upper for a customer.  The stock has a problem but the gun runs fine.  You got ripped off only if you paid too much for the lower, ie $1,200 or more.  Chances are you didn't, and probably got steal.  Are you interested in sending it out for repair?

It could be the gas rings are aligned, or the gas system clogged with lead from a 22LR adapter.  Or the extractor is broken in half at the pin hole.  Lotsa possibilities so you have to help us to help you.  We really need a lot more info to help you out.  Do you have access to an AGI video on the AR?  Do you have the USGI service manual?  Please post as much info as you can and be prepared to learn alot!

I'd check and see if the gas system is even intact and not clogged with something like maybe metal shavings from manufacturing.

Here's a thought...was the gas port drilled in the barrel and is the sight base properly aligned over the hole?

One way to find out would be to take a syringe and inject acetone (which leaves no residue after it evaporates) into the gas tube, tilt the affair so it flows down toward the sight base, and see if any acetones flows out the end of the barrel.   If it does, the gas system isn't blocked.  Or not completely, anyway.

I wouldn't fire the gun again until the acetone had completely evaporated, though.  A few hours should be quite sufficent.

CJ

I was using Winchester 45 GR Varmint rounds and the clip is an aftermarket one cause the guy i bought it from at the gunshow forgot the one for it. I paid 700$ for it and im am prety sure it had never been fired before because he took it apart and showed me all the parts. Not sure if it is a preban or not but doesnt have a folding stock. I think the guy said something about the stock was off an A3 or something but im not sure.

Read this post,

www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=66&t=140491

I just went and tried some 55 grn bullets with no luck it still wont eject the empty shells. the bolt will only open about one to two inches and sometimes not at all. Not there is a crack stating to develope in the housing around the forward assist, anyone know what might cause this? This is my first AR so i dont know much about them but the bolt doesnt seem like it slides back and forth very smooth, i was hopeing that was cause it was new? PS I have been using some CLP oil on all the moving parts i can find in the bolt and the gun. Any sugestions would be appericated thanks.

Quoted: I was using Winchester 45 GR Varmint rounds and the clip is an aftermarket one cause the guy i bought it from at the gunshow forgot the one for it. .

Well, there's your problem. You need to use magazines in your AR. Clips are for use in Garands.

All kidding aside, check the gas rings on the bolt and make sure they are *not* aligned or have more than about a 1/2 mm gap.

And, based on your last post, I think it's time to have that upper checked out by a gunsmith. If anything is cracking, it's time to have a pro look at it.

What do you mean, the bolt will only go back about an inch and a half?

During firing, or when manually cycling the action using the charging handle?

With an empty magazine installed, does the charging handle come back far enough for the bolt to lock in the open position?


Wait a second...you said there's a crack developing near the forward assist?

Remove the upper completely from the lower, take out the bolt carrier and charging handle, and look at the forward assist mechanism.  Unless you're pressing on the forward assist button, NOTHING should be protruding out of the forward assist's bore into the bore for the bolt carrier.  If it is, it can very well be your problem.  

Cracks anywhere in the upper receiver are not tolerable.  The receiver must be replaced and the old one scrapped.  You sure as heck don't want it to fail catastrophically while firing it.

Another test:  Remove the bolt carrier, and with the upper completely off the rifle, place the back end of the bolt carrier against the buffer plunger.  By hand, press the carrier back into the buffer tube and see if it'll go all the way to where the gas tube gooseneck  stops it.  It should be possible to push it back that far by hand.  If it doesn't go back that far, something's not right with the buffer and buffer tube assembly. Press in the detent pin, remove the buffer, and inspect all the buffer assembly components.

And did you check the gas tube to ensure that it's properly connected to the gas port in the barrel?

CJ

Shootfar,   STOP...take a deep breath...exhale.....ahhhhhhhh!

Good.
Now let's get down to the orderly and coherent business of fixing your new [albeit non-functioning] gun.

AR's that don't work are not that uncommon these days.  Too many think they know way too much.  Your gun will work.  YOU will fix it [with a little assist here] and we've all been through something similar.

OK, so let's see what we've got so far:

(1) An AR.  Who cares what brand.  Milspec is all we care about at this time.
2) THere is a crack at or about the Forward Asist.  Can you be more specific?

I like the post by CMJOHNSON to open up the top and make sure the carrier moves freely, and the Forward assist is not protruding into the path of the carrier.
Easy one:  
Unoad the gun.
Pull the rear takedown pin.
WIth the gun cracked open and th emuzzle pointing down, pull back the charging handle and just let go.
Does the bolt/carrier fall down into the upper receiver and doe the bolt engage? Even with a little push the last 1/2"

Hey Royce
1 The crack is a hairline about a half of an inch long on the outside of the housing, doesnt look like it would have much to do with performance.
2 I did your test and the bolt carrise seems to move freely and smooth. The bolt will almost lock back into place but not quite it just needs a little push to lock it in.
I kinda think i might have a problem in the gas system but i really dont know much about this stuff yet. I am getting a lot of really good info so far though.

Here's the most basic test of all:

Insert an EMPTY magazine.  Pull the charging handle back ALL the way and ride it back slowly.

Does the bolt stay open?  Is the bolt latch holding the bolt by the face of the bolt as it should?

CJ

Take a photo of the Bolt ass.,inside of your upper and the crack you talked about and post them.
Maybe if some of us can see it we would see if some is wrong.

99% of AR15.commers love to help out but (for me) it's very tuff to do that if I can't hold the gun in my hands and look at it.

But I will say this sny crack would a gun back to the dealer right away on ifs ands or buts.

Quoted: Hey Royce 1 The crack is a hairline about a half of an inch long on the outside of the housing, doesnt look like it would have much to do with performance. 2 I did your test and the bolt carrise seems to move freely and smooth. The bolt will almost lock back into place but not quite it just needs a little push to lock it in. I kinda think i might have a problem in the gas system but i really dont know much about this stuff yet. I am getting a lot of really good info so far though.

Ok, lets solve your problems.

1. Pull the carrier and check the forward assist.  Is the forward cam sticking out (inside the upper receiver)?  If so, it is catching the carrier on the way back and would explain the crack in the upper.  If this is the case, you will need to pull the forward asst. and check it for burs. The cam should not protrude into the upper receiver unless you press the button.  Also, depending on the crack, you may need to buy a stripped upper and replace your cracked one.

Now for your gas system, pull the bolt/carrier and separate the two.  Spray CLP into the carrier key and see if it freely runs into the gas chamber.  If yes, then keep going. Install the bolt all the way in and try again This time the CLP should not run freely and none should leak out around the key base to carrier.  If it does, then you have a leak at the two and will need to lap the carrier/key together to seal the leak.

With the muzzle pointed down, spray CLP into the gas tube. It should run freely down the tube and out the gas port inside the barrel.  If your not getting flow, let the rifle sit for a while (muzzle down) to let the CLP clean the fouling from the gas tube to barrel port.  If after 10 minutes, the CLP has not cleared the blockage, then the sight tower and gas port are miss aligned or truly blocked.  You will need to remove the sight tower and check the two holes for blockage and alignment.

Let me know what you find.

Here is the manual if you need it.
old.ar15.com/books/TM9-1005-319-23.pdf