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Posted: 7/9/2018 11:08:24 AM EDT
[#1]
someone with a waterjet or plama table could knock out the patterns pretty quick
but flatspot may have IP |
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Posted: 7/9/2018 1:09:18 PM EDT
[#2]
What do you figure the cost in brass? 3-4x the price of steel?
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Posted: 7/9/2018 3:17:38 PM EDT
[#3]
.125 brass sheet is ~10x the cost of steel
12x12, 11 gauge steel- 10 dollars 12x12, 11 gauge brass- 112 dollars |
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Posted: 7/9/2018 3:30:16 PM EDT
[#4]
I'll lay one out when I get home, see how small I can get it.
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Posted: 7/14/2018 10:28:31 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
.125 brass sheet is ~10x the cost of steel 12x12, 11 gauge steel- 10 dollars 12x12, 11 gauge brass- 112 dollars  Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 8/11/2018 7:26:43 PM EDT
[#6]
Update. Got the propane torch out today, had picked up a soldering kit from WalMart last week.
Sanded, blew off the parts clean, fluxed the two surfaces, clamped em together w/ vice grips, and wiped the excess flux off. Heated w/ the pipe torch, applied solder, heated some more, applied more solder, heated some more. Let it cool, popped the vice grips off, pieces fell apart. Fluffy tells me I'm supposed to clamp, then flux. Will try again. Right now I'm just trying to get the pistol grip boss pieces together. |
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Posted: 8/12/2018 11:36:15 AM EDT
[#7]
What about this ?? Lock Tite green. I know solder is permanent but it appears this is as well.
kwg https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37424-Strength-Retainer-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTIG |
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Posted: 8/12/2018 2:01:46 PM EDT
[#8]
You might be leaving particles of sandpaper between layers. Use a stainless bristle welding brush. Dip the parts in acetone.
Are you getting the parts hot enough? Pics of the separated pieces. The solder should wick in if the temperature is right. |
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Posted: 8/12/2018 2:10:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What about this ?? Lock Tite green. I know solder is permanent but it appears this is as well.
kwg https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37424-Strength-Retainer-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTIG |
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Posted: 8/12/2018 2:16:13 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You might be leaving particles of sandpaper between layers. Use a stainless bristle welding brush. Dip the parts in acetone. Are you getting the parts hot enough? Pics of the separated pieces. The solder should wick in if the temperature is right. It's a pain to post pics here now that I got Google out of my life. I'll see about getting some up when I get a chance. Didn't look as if there was any solder on the inside between the pieces. Could they be too smooth and I clamped them too hard, so there was no space in between? Do I need to rough them up w/ a file? When do I apply flux? Before or after I clamp? Fluffy says afterwards. |
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Posted: 8/12/2018 10:00:39 PM EDT
[#11]
The underlined part I quoted could be part of the answer.
You want the flux gooped on there. In brazing & soldering you cant have too much. It cleans the surfaces and helps the solder bond. Apply flux before clamping Try on a small piece. Keep the flame on the pieces. Dont apply solder until the flux begins to liquefy and smoke off. @1:14 https://youtu.be/jtvOkI_pvMI Quote HistoryQuoted:
Update. snip Sanded, blew off the parts clean, fluxed the two surfaces, clamped em together w/ vice grips, and wiped the excess flux off. snip . |
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Posted: 8/12/2018 10:08:54 PM EDT
[#12]
Ahhhh. Ok, part will covered in flux next time. May have a chance tomorrow before margaritas.
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Posted: 8/13/2018 10:46:13 AM EDT
[#13]
multiple step solder fabrication requires multi hardness solders
or the cherry heat from step 4 will cause step 1 to slide and fall off |
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Posted: 8/13/2018 11:09:05 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: multiple step solder fabrication requires multi hardness solders
or the cherry heat from step 4 will cause step 1 to slide and fall off |
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Posted: 8/13/2018 1:46:49 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That could be a problem. Maybe I can flux the whole thing, clamp it, lay solder on every joint, and then pop it in the oven? Look into solder/brazing paste, which is a mix of flux and solder. Butter everything up, position it, and then apply the heat. |
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Posted: 8/13/2018 2:08:49 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So if I screw it up, I really could stick it in the oven @ 550, bake for 87 minutes, and have a fresh start. If I could build a jig that would hold all the parts in place w/o risk of being soldered into the lower, we really could have shake & bake lowers, no? Very handy for car trips from Pennsylvania to Maine, for instance. Melt the solder off your lower, drive through New York w/ your jigsaw pieces until you get back to a free state, recoat it w/ solder, pop it in the jig, bake on high for 87 minutes? |
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