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Posted: 7/6/2016 6:22:30 PM EDT
| So I got an Easy Jig a while back and just now got the time to work on a lower. I noticed after a bit of milling that the jig is noticeably to the left of the lower and one side is thinner than the other. Has anyone else seen this before? |
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this one? Got a pic of your lower? |
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yes |
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Billet or forged lower? Who made the lower? Maybe it is out of spec and not the jig's fault. I've been cutting lowers from several different manufacturers with the same jig and my FCG pocket walls are usually within .001" to .002" of each other. Tightening the bolts in the proper sequence helps. Tighten the bolts that come down though the top of your spacer plate, FCG pocket template, and router surface first, then tighten the two bolts that go through your front pivot pin and rear takedown pin. Also- don't over torque the two bolts at the bottom of the jig side walls. These should be just snugged after the top ones are tight. |
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Ok now I see your pics. Have you made it to the step where you allow the shank (smooth part of course) of the end mill to touch the fire control pocket template? If I remember right, that is when you get to about 2 1/2 hash marks down on the depth guide. If you have not made it to this step yet, then you will see some irregularity. It is not until you made a full cut with the shank of the endmill against the template that you will see the final thickness of your fire control pocket walls. |
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Quoted: The lower is from 80% Arms themselves. Make sure the collet is really tight on the router also. What speed are you running? http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/685954_Router_speed_for_cutting_80__Lowers__my_experience.html |
| Well I feel like a dumbass now. Talked to 80percentarms through email and after a few back and forth messages the guy told me it is normal for the back of the trigger pocket to be different sizes. This statement made me pull out my AR and check it. Well what do you know, it is different too. |
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OP, can you slide a standard trigger and hammer down in the lower to their normal positions? I suspect you can't.
My suggestion is to put the top plate back on with the screws a little loose. Push it to one side as far as it will go and tighten the screws while it is in that position. Do a finish pass with your router. Then, loosen the screws and push the top plate as far as it will go in the other direction and tighten the screws in that position. Then, do a finish pass with your router. For that matter, you could just push the top plate towards the thicker side and do a finish pass, then check to see if a standard hammer and trigger will fit. If they do then don't worry about the other side. |
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