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Posted: 4/14/2016 5:55:25 PM EDT
[#1]
I built one of these. Get the 7075, it's worth the extra $19.
http://www.80percentarms.com/products/80-lower-receiver-type-iii-hard-anodized-billet-ar-15 |
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Posted: 4/14/2016 7:51:42 PM EDT
[#2]
I don't. I Type 2 at home
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Posted: 4/14/2016 8:48:37 PM EDT
[#3]
I believe getting anyone else involved in your 80% build moves it into the realm of illegality.
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Posted: 4/14/2016 8:52:39 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I believe getting anyone else involved in your 80% build moves it into the realm of illegality. IMO, as long as it's done before you complete the "20%", it's not a firearm. Manufacturers sell the same lower with or without the lower and the same "20%" has to be completed. The anodizing or cerakoting, or painting as far as that goes, does not complete any of the functionality of the lower. The finish is for protection and technically is not needed for use. |
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Posted: 4/14/2016 10:53:33 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I believe getting anyone else involved in your 80% build moves it into the realm of illegality. I don't believe having it painted/anodized after I completed the milling process is actually helping with the "build". Technically the "build" would have been complete. It would be just like sending a regular lower to get painted and engraved, which as far as I know, is not illegal. |
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Posted: 4/14/2016 11:17:37 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Technically the "build" would have been complete. It would be just like sending a regular lower to get painted and engraved... Also, you won't get the "hard coat" protection of the Type III on holes and stuff, unless they're already drilled before it's applied. |
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Posted: 4/15/2016 9:34:09 AM EDT
[#7]
So to answer the OP's question, and just as a fyi I haven't personally used them but they are always recommended and hold a FFL to do this type of work
US Anodizing But you may need some type of mark on the lower for them to enter it into their log book (this is typically up for debate but a lot of the FFL smiths are requiring it to cover their six) |
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Posted: 4/15/2016 10:15:24 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So to answer the OP's question, and just as a fyi I haven't personally used them but they are always recommended and hold a FFL to do this type of work US Anodizing But you may need some type of mark on the lower for them to enter it into their log book (this is typically up for debate but a lot of the FFL smiths are requiring it to cover their six) US anodizing is the answer. You shouldn't need to have the lower marked, but I would contact US Anodizing to be sure. If you do need some sort of SN on it, pick up some 1/16" number punches from brownells and stamp a number on your pistol grip tang. |
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Posted: 4/15/2016 3:03:21 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Exactly right. It's totally legal. Also, you won't get the "hard coat" protection of the Type III on holes and stuff, unless they're already drilled before it's applied. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Technically the "build" would have been complete. It would be just like sending a regular lower to get painted and engraved... Also, you won't get the "hard coat" protection of the Type III on holes and stuff, unless they're already drilled before it's applied. That's my thought as well; that's why I didn't buy the already anodized 80%ers. I said to myself, well what about the holes I'm drilling into it, they won't be anodized or painted. |
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Posted: 4/15/2016 3:03:36 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So to answer the OP's question, and just as a fyi I haven't personally used them but they are always recommended and hold a FFL to do this type of work US Anodizing But you may need some type of mark on the lower for them to enter it into their log book (this is typically up for debate but a lot of the FFL smiths are requiring it to cover their six) Thank you! |
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Posted: 4/15/2016 3:03:51 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
US anodizing is the answer. You shouldn't need to have the lower marked, but I would contact US Anodizing to be sure. If you do need some sort of SN on it, pick up some 1/16" number punches from brownells and stamp a number on your pistol grip tang. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So to answer the OP's question, and just as a fyi I haven't personally used them but they are always recommended and hold a FFL to do this type of work US Anodizing But you may need some type of mark on the lower for them to enter it into their log book (this is typically up for debate but a lot of the FFL smiths are requiring it to cover their six) US anodizing is the answer. You shouldn't need to have the lower marked, but I would contact US Anodizing to be sure. If you do need some sort of SN on it, pick up some 1/16" number punches from brownells and stamp a number on your pistol grip tang. Thank you! |
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Posted: 4/15/2016 7:06:51 PM EDT
[#12]
Did I read that right, 350 dollars to anodize a lower? You could do it yourself for far less.
Sorry edit to say that was for NFA lowers... Still 100 dollars is still a lot, I mean you can type II anodize yourself fairly easily and it's not exactly a high stress part. |
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Posted: 4/15/2016 7:37:38 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Did I read that right, 350 dollars to anodize a lower? You could do it yourself for far less. Sorry edit to say that was for NFA lowers... Still 100 dollars is still a lot, I mean you can type II anodize yourself fairly easily and it's not exactly a high stress part. $100 is a good price for an in-the-white lower being type III anodized. I think that $100 includes a bead blast to clean up any perfections and dry lube on the inside. |
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Posted: 4/16/2016 10:57:47 AM EDT
[#14]
Nasmyth TMF INC in burbank
They charge by the lot And They do type 3 
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Posted: 4/16/2016 10:59:30 AM EDT
[#15]
There's also a black oxide place in burbank next to Costco. It's called "black oxide".
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Posted: 4/19/2016 8:17:00 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank you! Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: So to answer the OP's question, and just as a fyi I haven't personally used them but they are always recommended and hold a FFL to do this type of work US Anodizing But you may need some type of mark on the lower for them to enter it into their log book (this is typically up for debate but a lot of the FFL smiths are requiring it to cover their six) US anodizing is the answer. You shouldn't need to have the lower marked, but I would contact US Anodizing to be sure. If you do need some sort of SN on it, pick up some 1/16" number punches from brownells and stamp a number on your pistol grip tang. Thank you! I emailed victor@usanodizing and ask him: "Can you anodize a completed 80% AR 15 lower that I completed into a firearm without any markings on it?" He sent me this back (in a PDF, copied here): INSTRUCTIONS Check List For sending your new "prototype” lower receiver for Anodizing: 1. Make sure your receiver is clean and free of any oil, or cutting fluid. 2. Make sure all sharp edges are rounded or de-burred. 3. Allow for .0012 -.0020 film thickness (build up) during machining. 4. Make sure the receiver is stamped or engraved with the following; Manufacture’s Name, Model, Caliber, and Serial Number. 5. Evenly blast the receiver surfaces with 100 grit @ 40-50 psi. Repeat Evenly! 6. After surface prep, do not contaminate the surface with finger prints or oil. 7. Package the receiver with clean packaging material, not newspaper. 8. Provide the following items with your receiver: A. Let us know what color to anodize your receiver, Black or Gray. B. Include a Prepaid return shipping label, so we can ship the package back. C. If you are a licensed dealer or manufacture, please include a copy of your FFL. D. If you are not an FFL holder, please include a copy of a valid picture ID. The address on the picture ID, must match the return shipping address. E. Include payment via Check or Money Order. The price to anodize your lower receiver (Per MIL-A-8625F, Type III, black or gray) is $75.00, plus shipping. If you need us to do the surface prep, add $25.00 for the extra labor. If you do the surface prep, we are not responsible for un-even color or texture. Please allow approximately 4-6 weeks for processing your receiver. Any deviations from our instructions listed above, can result in delays. Or worse, we will not be able to return the receiver directly to you. Notice: If you reside in a State that restricts you from sending your receiver out for finishing, please do not send it. Or, we cannot send it back! Please check with a local Federal Firearms Licensed dealer (FFL), State Police, or BATF for more information. |
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Posted: 4/19/2016 9:46:04 PM EDT
[#17]
Ridiculous!
You have to... Mark it Grit blast it Ship it Pay $75-$100 FOR ONE RECEIVER Possibly go through an FFL Screw that, either Cerakote, Duracote, or Anodize it yourself. Google home anodizing. |
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Posted: 4/19/2016 11:05:11 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I emailed victor@usanodizing and ask him: "Can you anodize a completed 80% AR 15 lower that I completed into a firearm without any markings on it?" He sent me this back (in a PDF, copied here): INSTRUCTIONS Check List For sending your new "prototype” lower receiver for Anodizing: 1. Make sure your receiver is clean and free of any oil, or cutting fluid. 2. Make sure all sharp edges are rounded or de-burred. 3. Allow for .0012 -.0020 film thickness (build up) during machining. 4. Make sure the receiver is stamped or engraved with the following; Manufacture’s Name, Model, Caliber, and Serial Number. 5. Evenly blast the receiver surfaces with 100 grit @ 40-50 psi. Repeat Evenly! 6. After surface prep, do not contaminate the surface with finger prints or oil. 7. Package the receiver with clean packaging material, not newspaper. 8. Provide the following items with your receiver: A. Let us know what color to anodize your receiver, Black or Gray. B. Include a Prepaid return shipping label, so we can ship the package back. C. If you are a licensed dealer or manufacture, please include a copy of your FFL. D. If you are not an FFL holder, please include a copy of a valid picture ID. The address on the picture ID, must match the return shipping address. E. Include payment via Check or Money Order. The price to anodize your lower receiver (Per MIL-A-8625F, Type III, black or gray) is $75.00, plus shipping. If you need us to do the surface prep, add $25.00 for the extra labor. If you do the surface prep, we are not responsible for un-even color or texture. Please allow approximately 4-6 weeks for processing your receiver. Any deviations from our instructions listed above, can result in delays. Or worse, we will not be able to return the receiver directly to you. Notice: If you reside in a State that restricts you from sending your receiver out for finishing, please do not send it. Or, we cannot send it back! Please check with a local Federal Firearms Licensed dealer (FFL), State Police, or BATF for more information. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
So to answer the OP's question, and just as a fyi I haven't personally used them but they are always recommended and hold a FFL to do this type of work US Anodizing But you may need some type of mark on the lower for them to enter it into their log book (this is typically up for debate but a lot of the FFL smiths are requiring it to cover their six) US anodizing is the answer. You shouldn't need to have the lower marked, but I would contact US Anodizing to be sure. If you do need some sort of SN on it, pick up some 1/16" number punches from brownells and stamp a number on your pistol grip tang. Thank you! I emailed victor@usanodizing and ask him: "Can you anodize a completed 80% AR 15 lower that I completed into a firearm without any markings on it?" He sent me this back (in a PDF, copied here): INSTRUCTIONS Check List For sending your new "prototype” lower receiver for Anodizing: 1. Make sure your receiver is clean and free of any oil, or cutting fluid. 2. Make sure all sharp edges are rounded or de-burred. 3. Allow for .0012 -.0020 film thickness (build up) during machining. 4. Make sure the receiver is stamped or engraved with the following; Manufacture’s Name, Model, Caliber, and Serial Number. 5. Evenly blast the receiver surfaces with 100 grit @ 40-50 psi. Repeat Evenly! 6. After surface prep, do not contaminate the surface with finger prints or oil. 7. Package the receiver with clean packaging material, not newspaper. 8. Provide the following items with your receiver: A. Let us know what color to anodize your receiver, Black or Gray. B. Include a Prepaid return shipping label, so we can ship the package back. C. If you are a licensed dealer or manufacture, please include a copy of your FFL. D. If you are not an FFL holder, please include a copy of a valid picture ID. The address on the picture ID, must match the return shipping address. E. Include payment via Check or Money Order. The price to anodize your lower receiver (Per MIL-A-8625F, Type III, black or gray) is $75.00, plus shipping. If you need us to do the surface prep, add $25.00 for the extra labor. If you do the surface prep, we are not responsible for un-even color or texture. Please allow approximately 4-6 weeks for processing your receiver. Any deviations from our instructions listed above, can result in delays. Or worse, we will not be able to return the receiver directly to you. Notice: If you reside in a State that restricts you from sending your receiver out for finishing, please do not send it. Or, we cannot send it back! Please check with a local Federal Firearms Licensed dealer (FFL), State Police, or BATF for more information. "Make sure the receiver is stamped or engraved with the following; Manufacture’s Name, Model, Caliber, and Serial Number." - So I'm guessing he doesn't do completed 80%ers. Back to the drawing board! 
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Posted: 4/19/2016 11:45:41 PM EDT
[#19]
I Google searched and found a few more. Some are large batch/commercial services.
Maybe contact Apex Anodizing. You can send an unmarked 80% lower to an FFL to be marked. When they receive it, there are no markings....so how do they log it in their books??? I assume they mark it with whatever you tell them to from an enclosed letter of some sort. Seems like the same process for refinishing. |
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Posted: 4/20/2016 12:39:40 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ridiculous! You have to... Mark it Grit blast it Ship it Pay $75-$100 FOR ONE RECEIVER Possibly go through an FFL Screw that, either Cerakote, Duracote, or Anodize it yourself. Google home anodizing. I agree, it would have ended up costing me a couple of hundred dollars just to do one! 
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Posted: 4/20/2016 6:39:51 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I Google searched and found a few more. Some are large batch/commercial services. Maybe contact Apex Anodizing. You can send an unmarked 80% lower to an FFL to be marked. When they receive it, there are no markings....so how do they log it in their books??? I assume they mark it with whatever you tell them to from an enclosed letter of some sort. Seems like the same process for refinishing. Just like we have with all those pre 68 unserialized firearms for the last 45+ years. "N/A" |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 6:38:04 PM EDT
[#22]
Too much trouble for all that!
I just Duracoated mine and they are fine. Its not like they wont function or the finish will fade faster. Anodizing just hardens the metal up some. Unless you plan on entering your lowers in a demolition derby, just paint them up and go on. They will last just as long as anodized. |
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Posted: 4/23/2016 8:17:13 PM EDT
[#23]
I've heard through the grapevine that Synergy in Titusville, FL shoe able to suit your needs. Unsure on price but I heard one guy got 10 or 12 done for $65
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Posted: 4/24/2016 4:47:12 AM EDT
[#24]
I go local. The guy who owns the shop is a family friend who knew me before I could talk well enough to say his name.
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Posted: 4/24/2016 10:32:55 PM EDT
[#25]
guys the difference between type III ano and anything else (not sure about Cerrakote) is HUGE.
type III's hardness is comparable to a Opal (not a Opel) . comparable because you can't use conventional hardness testing methods as the aluminum underneath deforms. it's actually very difficult to drill into. can you live without it? of course you can, plastic lowers abound, even wooden ones. should you? your call, not anyone else's. as far as Victor and US Ano goes, try to find a unhappy customer. i figure the lower's going to be around longer than the money would anyway. |
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Posted: 4/25/2016 3:04:58 AM EDT
[#26]
When I've blasted my type III lowers/uppers, they take considerably more time to remove than cerakote.
I now only lightly blast the metal to etch it and help the cerakote bond. |
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