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Anyone tried the Heavy Duty Jig with a Juggernaut Tactical 80% lower (Link)? When dry fitting the jig, the side supports appear to touch a few places of the lower (that are non-standard) in the front to rear axis. I did not use any painters tape in these areas. The screws all went in without binding, but it is snug. Also, from the top, it appears that the side support screws are slightly biased to one side.
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Originally Posted By troy_v:
Those should work without a problem. |
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Originally Posted By K1rodeoboater:
I'd actually disagree with you. The extra material that goes rear of the magazine well looks like it'll cause the jig to not fit properly to me. You could easily modify the side plates to fit it thought if you wanted to. Originally Posted By K1rodeoboater:
Originally Posted By troy_v:
Those should work without a problem. The modulus reps have stated that the HD jig was designed with lot of adjustability for various billet lowers. I'd suggest contacting Modulus. But my money is on it fitting. |
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Originally Posted By The_Schweitz:
Anyone tried the Heavy Duty Jig with a Juggernaut Tactical 80% lower (Link)? When dry fitting the jig, the side supports appear to touch a few places of the lower (that are non-standard) in the front to rear axis. I did not use any painters tape in these areas. The screws all went in without binding, but it is snug. Also, from the top, it appears that the side support screws are slightly biased to one side. http://www.jtactical.com/assets/images/1634017658.jpg http://www.jtactical.com/assets/images/5421256647.jpg I saw your email asking us about this just recently. I apologize in the delay of the response as we have been closed since Friday. Max will be getting back in touch with you on Monday morning to sort through any problems you are having. I would address your issues but Max is really the technical representative and will get you sorted out. |
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Be sure to check out our BRAND NEW Heavy-Duty Universal AR-308/AR-10 80% Lower Receiver Jigg. This product now brings all the great features from the Heavy-Duty AR-15 Universal 80% Jig to the AR-308/AR-10.
We also just released a BRAND NEW Billet 80% Lower Receiver with all the high end features including; integrated trigger guard, super flared mag well, two finger mag well grip, threaded bolt catch pin, rear detent tension screw, threaded rear takedown detent hole etc. etc. 
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Originally Posted By ModulusArms:
I saw your email asking us about this just recently. I apologize in the delay of the response as we have been closed since Friday. Max will be getting back in touch with you on Monday morning to sort through any problems you are having. I would address your issues but Max is really the technical representative and will get you sorted out. Originally Posted By ModulusArms:
Originally Posted By The_Schweitz:
Anyone tried the Heavy Duty Jig with a Juggernaut Tactical 80% lower (Link)? When dry fitting the jig, the side supports appear to touch a few places of the lower (that are non-standard) in the front to rear axis. I did not use any painters tape in these areas. The screws all went in without binding, but it is snug. Also, from the top, it appears that the side support screws are slightly biased to one side. http://www.jtactical.com/assets/images/1634017658.jpg http://www.jtactical.com/assets/images/5421256647.jpg I saw your email asking us about this just recently. I apologize in the delay of the response as we have been closed since Friday. Max will be getting back in touch with you on Monday morning to sort through any problems you are having. I would address your issues but Max is really the technical representative and will get you sorted out. Thanks for following up. With the holiday weekend, I thought I might as well try here as well to see if anyone else had some first hand experience. I'll keep an eye out for the email. |
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| Anyone tried out the Heavy-Duty 308 Jig, yet? |
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Originally Posted By BlackWeapon:
Is anyone else having a problem with the HD15 jig is off by a millimeter or so to the left? Makes the hole for the trigger offset too. It has done this on a New Frontier billet and also a forged of a different brand. If you look at your FCG pocket and trigger slot, you will find that they are centered on this line. That is what is important. Having two different wall thicknesses is common and not relevant. That is the beauty of our jigs unique mounting system. By mounting via the buffer tube mount and front take down pin, it puts you dead smack on the "Y" axis. If you use somebody else's jig, that simply clamps on the sides, it will put the pocket centered between the two plates whether or not that is the center of the rifle. |
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Originally Posted By BlackWeapon:
Is anyone else having a problem with the HD15 jig is off by a millimeter or so to the left? Makes the hole for the trigger offset too. It has done this on a New Frontier billet and also a forged of a different brand. Edited to ad: Well I have done some research and have read that Modulus is not selling jigs or jig parts anymore (since summer of 2017). Wow. I spent a lot of my hard earned money on that jig...did one lower and found that a poor quality jig screwed it up and now I can't get any replacement parts for it! I can't do anymore lowers with it without screwing them up too so I guess I have to give a big thumbs down to Modulus. I guess I will spend more money and get a 5D Tactical jig. |
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Originally Posted By BlueMax76: I have a similar problem with mine. My pins (trigger and Hammer) and the safety are crooked in the lower. Just looking down over the top of the lower it is plain as day they are not straight across the fire control pocket. The left side holes are to far forward. I took the two steel left and right parts of my heavy duty jig and put them together and the holes do not line up. can I get my sides replaced? I was just on your web site today (04/18/2018) and you don't even have jigs or individual jig parts shown on your site. I sent an email about this problem several weeks ago and no response. |
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Originally Posted By wtjosaas:
Just pulled mine out and checked it. Looks good. I have only done 1 80% lower with it but I didn't have any issues. I have a few more on hand so wanted to make sure my jig was good. |
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Originally Posted By mre1974:
I have one of these jigs that I have not been able to make the time to use to attempt to complete an 80%. How did you check to see if the side plates line up correctly and are in spec for use? I was thinking of using purchase complete lower to do this by assembling it in the jig then check with the appropriate drill bit. Just wondering if there is another way to check them before spending any time trying to complete one only to find out it will not function. TIA Originally Posted By mre1974:
Originally Posted By wtjosaas:
Just pulled mine out and checked it. Looks good. I have only done 1 80% lower with it but I didn't have any issues. I have a few more on hand so wanted to make sure my jig was good. |
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Originally Posted By DaveP1: No, there is no avenue available to get your sides replaced, they have stopped selling jigs and have not been on here for quite a while now. Hell even if they responded and said "we aren't selling the shit anymore but here is the end mill brand/part number so you can go find one on your own" I'd have been appreciative of that. Instead I get silence - probably because they are sick of being bothered by all the people who still think they are in business. It's like when people get irritated by the "is it still available" emails when they don't delete their Craigslist ads after something is sold. |
| I just milled my first two lowers with the heavy duty Jig and worked out well but one thing. The edge or the rear take down pocket ended up closer than I would have liked to the buffer detent hole. This was on a Nodak retro receiver. It will work but I would like to have about 1mm more than I do. |
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Hello, Holy thread resurrection ! :-) Very late to the party but finally got around to using this jig today. I've sent Modulus an email about these issues but ... no response. Anyway, when assembling the jig the support screw that is supposed to thread thru both side plates only goes in part way on the first side plate. Any ideas why ? Regardless I continued on since it seemed sturdy enough and mounted in my (wood) work bench vise it seemed square... The drilling seemed to go well and didn't take that long however when I set up to do the routing the first setting for the end mill didn't even touch the lower, much less have to be started in the "A" hole. Is this a real problem ? Should I just continue on, in small steps, to the max depth the depth gauge is built for ? Or, is my lower toast ? :-) Peter |
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Originally Posted By PETERC57: Hello, Holy thread resurrection ! :-) Very late to the party but finally got around to using this jig today. I've sent Modulus an email about these issues but ... no response. Anyway, when assembling the jig the support screw that is supposed to thread thru both side plates only goes in part way on the first side plate. Any ideas why ? Regardless I continued on since it seemed sturdy enough and mounted in my (wood) work bench vise it seemed square... The drilling seemed to go well and didn't take that long however when I set up to do the routing the first setting for the end mill didn't even touch the lower, much less have to be started in the "A" hole. Is this a real problem ? Should I just continue on, in small steps, to the max depth the depth gauge is built for ? Or, is my lower toast ? :-) Peter Which router do you have? Can you post some pics? |
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Hi, I'm using my Dewalt 621. No pictures but I'm 100% sure that the jig is on correctly. I even used my calipers to measure the actual depth of the drill holes and they all came out near 1.25" (if a little shallow) so the max depth from the jig for drilling appears to be correct. I got some feedback from another forum to just move forward and watch the depth as I go. If it comes out shallow then I can increase the depth of cut by whatever it takes (the Dewalt easily let's me adjust depth changes in 1/128" increments)... Anyway, basically my question had more to do with the jig and the depth gauge provided and whether this discrepancy might be related to the jig itself or maybe the lower I have. Thanks, Peter |
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My apologies if I’m not understanding. You need an end mill that is at least 4” long. Many are 2.5” made for a mill, not a router. Is your end mill that long? The A holes (he he) should go all the way through the lower to make the trigger hole. Did they? |
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Originally Posted By tobycreek: My apologies if I’m not understanding. You need an end mill that is at least 4” long. Many are 2.5” made for a mill, not a router. Is your end mill that long? The A holes (he he) should go all the way through the lower to make the trigger hole. Did they? This is correct, if you have a 4" long end mill with a short cut that's what you want. Long enough to get all the way through. short cut so the cutting part never is near the jig plate. If you got the end mill from Modulus it should be good. If you are buying on your own you have to be careful to get ones that will work. |
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Hi, I got the complete set of bits, the end mill and the jig all at the same time from Modulus. It's not the length of the End Mill that started this conversation - it's the fact that when I set the depth of the end mill for the *first* cut, using the depth gauge supplied with the jig, the end mill does not reach the top of the lower. It's at least 1/16" short. When I saw that I stopped and started asking questions since I was concerned all the depth settings would be off and I'd ruin the lower. So, anyway, based on feedback elsewhere I've decided to move forward but only use the depth gauge as a *rough* guide and manually ensure the pocket gets no deeper than 1.25". Kind of a pain but doable. Thanks, |
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Originally Posted By PETERC57: Hi, I got the complete set of bits, the end mill and the jig all at the same time from Modulus. It's not the length of the End Mill that started this conversation - it's the fact that when I set the depth of the end mill for the *first* cut, using the depth gauge supplied with the jig, the end mill does not reach the top of the lower. It's at least 1/16" short. When I saw that I stopped and started asking questions since I was concerned all the depth settings would be off and I'd ruin the lower. So, anyway, based on feedback elsewhere I've decided to move forward but only use the depth gauge as a *rough* guide and manually ensure the pocket gets no deeper than 1.25". Kind of a pain but doable. Thanks, I wonder if your depth gauge is off? Can you measure the depth of the A, B & C parts of it? I can tell you that if I set my end mill to the first hash mark on my Makita, it is below the top of the lower. |
| It is possible your depth gauge is off and the hash marks start too high. The only measurement that really matters is the bottom one on the gauge. Try not to take more than about 1/16” or less off with each pass. Sounds like you have the micrometer you need to check depth. You’ll be fine. |
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Originally Posted By brich2929: Bump You “bumped” a thread that was protected from going into the Archivs |
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