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Posted: 11/11/2015 9:32:29 PM EDT
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I bought two Ares billet lowers and tried to finish them using a drill press. Never done anything like that before. On one the chuck came loose and sent the end mill through the side of the receiver. Scratch 5 hours of work and a receiver. The second one turned out great but was very tedious hard work. The Ares jig is very high quality but designed to use with a milling machine, which I do not have access to. It would be elpfull to have a top plate with a drilling template so I could drill out most of the material with a small bit before going to the 3/8" end mill bit. Does anyone know where I could find such a template? The Ares jig looks just like the Tactical Maching jig. Are they the same product with different markings? Does anyone know if such a template is available from any company to fit either the Ares or TM jig?
Ares has come a long way since the new management and I highly recommend them. Thanks in advance for your help. |
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Get some layout fluid and a good center punch.
Scribe parallel lines after you scribe the cavity outline. Center punch every cross line. I think 5/16 (.312) spacing would work swell. Drill to 1/16" above the final depth, And increase 1/32" each pass. Lube with WD40. Swiss cheese it baby, then clean it up by plunge milling. 
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Look on the Tactical Machining website, they make a plate for their jig, that is what I use.
http://www.tacticalmachining.com/80-jigs/80-ar15-jigs/tm1002d.html Do not know if it will fit the Ares jig though |
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Only real issue is side loading a drill press can be catastrophic. There's no drawbar holding the chuck. Only a taper. Worst part is you will have it at eye/face level. Or at the very least your fingers too close to the action.
If you are going to take that chance, and have a Chi-Com X Y vise, spend a little effort cleaning up the ways, lube the well with a high quality grease and adjust the gibs as tight as you can ad still get travel. You will stand a much better chance of completing a usable lower. |
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I drilled my first 80% too deep, but was able to fix it with JB Weld and refinished the area. I'm the only one that would know it was fixed. You didn't fix it. You "bedded" the receiver. Makes it more accurate. Now you shoot 1/4" MOA at 500yds. Your new range story. |
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You didn't fix it. You "bedded" the receiver. Makes it more accurate. Now you shoot 1/4" MOA at 500yds. Your new range story. Quoted:
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I drilled my first 80% too deep, but was able to fix it with JB Weld and refinished the area. I'm the only one that would know it was fixed. You didn't fix it. You "bedded" the receiver. Makes it more accurate. Now you shoot 1/4" MOA at 500yds. Your new range story. Good one!! I have 4 lowers completed and ready for BLACK FRIDAY Deals on gun kits or uppers. |
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Has anyone tried more than 1 type of the router jigs?
I'm about to buy a router jig setup solely to finish out a nodak lower for a clone build, I plan doing 1 of the cheaper lowers before attempting on my nodak. I'm between the 80% arms and modulus arms jig, its the only router based jigs I know of. I know the modulus claims to be better for getting the true specs, but haven't heard anything against a 80% arms setup. I'm trying to decide which one I should get but can't make up my mind, as it stands now I'm going with which ever one I can get cheaper in the next few weeks. If there other good setups I wouldn't mind hearing about them, I have a drill press but have no desire to use it as a mill. From the pictures I have seen, a router based setup produces better results. |
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Has anyone tried more than 1 type of the router jigs? I'm about to buy a router jig setup solely to finish out a nodak lower for a clone build, I plan doing 1 of the cheaper lowers before attempting on my nodak. I'm between the 80% arms and modulus arms jig, its the only router based jigs I know of. I know the modulus claims to be better for getting the true specs, but haven't heard anything against a 80% arms setup. I'm trying to decide which one I should get but can't make up my mind, as it stands now I'm going with which ever one I can get cheaper in the next few weeks. If there other good setups I wouldn't mind hearing about them, I have a drill press but have no desire to use it as a mill. From the pictures I have seen, a router based setup produces better results. I've used both. The 80% Arms jig is a little faster to work with but it doesn't work with every lower out there. I would imagine the nodak lower would be fine with it. I sold my 80% Arms jig and I currently use the Modulus Arms jig. I had to because the 80 arms jig will not work with the New Frontier Arms (AR15 or 9mm) or the Iconic Industries Lowers. The Modulus Arms worked great with both of these. If you are only going to do std mil spec forged lowers and a few of the standard billet lowers (similar to the 80 arms billet) then either jig will work. If you might use a more exotic lower (see Iconic Industries) then you will have to use the Modulus Arms. |
| Thanks for all the suggestions. I do have an X-y vise from Harbor Freight but quite frankly find it nearly worthless. Don't recommend it at all. I threw out the damaged receiver. Has anyone tried the 80% Anderson receivers? They sell a complete set of everything needed including receiver, jig and tooling for $104. I might try that next as its designed for drill press. |
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I do have an X-y vise from Harbor Freight but quite frankly find it nearly worthless. Don't recommend it at all. I threw out the damaged receiver. Has anyone tried the 80% Anderson receivers? They sell a complete set of everything needed including receiver, jig and tooling for $104. I might try that next as its designed for drill press. I'm interested. I for more information. |
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I'm about to buy a router jig setup solely to finish out a nodak lower for a clone build, I plan doing 1 of the cheaper lowers before attempting on my nodak. I'm between the 80% arms and modulus arms jig, its the only router based jigs I know of. I know the modulus claims to be better for getting the true specs, but haven't heard anything against a 80% arms setup. I'm trying to decide which one I should get but can't make up my mind, as it stands now I'm going with which ever one I can get cheaper in the next few weeks. If there other good setups I wouldn't mind hearing about them, I have a drill press but have no desire to use it as a mill. From the pictures I have seen, a router based setup produces better results. I hope you waited.... Because this one is a new to release today: http://www.slickguns.com/product/black-friday-deal-modulus-arms-heavy-duty-universal-ar-15-jig-17999 |
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I hope you waited.... Because this one is a new to release today: http://www.slickguns.com/product/black-friday-deal-modulus-arms-heavy-duty-universal-ar-15-jig-17999 Quoted:
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I'm about to buy a router jig setup solely to finish out a nodak lower for a clone build, I plan doing 1 of the cheaper lowers before attempting on my nodak. I'm between the 80% arms and modulus arms jig, its the only router based jigs I know of. I know the modulus claims to be better for getting the true specs, but haven't heard anything against a 80% arms setup. I'm trying to decide which one I should get but can't make up my mind, as it stands now I'm going with which ever one I can get cheaper in the next few weeks. If there other good setups I wouldn't mind hearing about them, I have a drill press but have no desire to use it as a mill. From the pictures I have seen, a router based setup produces better results. I hope you waited.... Because this one is a new to release today: http://www.slickguns.com/product/black-friday-deal-modulus-arms-heavy-duty-universal-ar-15-jig-17999 I did wait, but don't think I need a steel jig for 2 lowers 
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I did wait, but don't think I need a steel jig for 2 lowers Quoted:
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I'm about to buy a router jig setup solely to finish out a nodak lower for a clone build, I plan doing 1 of the cheaper lowers before attempting on my nodak. I'm between the 80% arms and modulus arms jig, its the only router based jigs I know of. I know the modulus claims to be better for getting the true specs, but haven't heard anything against a 80% arms setup. I'm trying to decide which one I should get but can't make up my mind, as it stands now I'm going with which ever one I can get cheaper in the next few weeks. If there other good setups I wouldn't mind hearing about them, I have a drill press but have no desire to use it as a mill. From the pictures I have seen, a router based setup produces better results. I hope you waited.... Because this one is a new to release today: http://www.slickguns.com/product/black-friday-deal-modulus-arms-heavy-duty-universal-ar-15-jig-17999 I did wait, but don't think I need a steel jig for 2 lowers They are having a special where you can get the new jig and bits for a reduced price. Not really more expensive than the older style one. Appears to have some improvements with the steel plates and recessed angle screws. I would guess the new type screws would center the side plates better? |
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They are having a special where you can get the new jig and bits for a reduced price. Not really more expensive than the older style one. Appears to have some improvements with the steel plates and recessed angle screws. I would guess the new type screws would center the side plates better? Key Features of the Heavy-Duty Jig: Solid Steel Side Plates: Solid High Strength Alloy Steel Side Plates. We went above and beyond the competition and rather than using aluminum or even steel bushings we decided to make SOLID STEEL side plates. Solid Steel Drill Template: Solid High Strength Alloy Steel Drill Template. The Heavy-Duty Jig has an increased thickness Drill Template that is made of SOLID STEEL. Oblonged holes and replacing pieces is a thing of the past. Solid Steel Router Template: Solid High Strength Alloy Steel Router Template. Every wear surface of the Heavy-Duty Jig is made from High-Strength Steel. No more worn out templates or melted aluminum. Easy and Fast Assembly: The Router Template and Drill Template are now held down with only four screws. This makes changing configurations for milling and drilling a breeze. Larger Area Router Base: The Router Base is now MASSIVE! It is almost twice the size as the standard jig and is almost a full 3/8" thick. |
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