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Posted: 8/15/2015 5:47:26 PM EDT
| which one do you use for barrel and muzzle device install? I'm in the market for one and need opinions on what works, and what don't |
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You'll get tons of answers that contradict each other on this simple question. The "best one for you" depends on your comfort level with torque wrenches, and with measurement devices in general.
I have a Harbor Freight 1/2" drive, click-type torque wrench for barrel work. No it isn't rocket-rated, but I can test it to verify that it's reading accurately. That's where the "comfort level" comes in. It would cost more than the wrench cost to have it calibrated, but if it always checks out within specs, I don't need to have it cal'd. If you buy a Snap-On, Craftsman, or other big name wrench, you'll want to keep in mind that they will cal your wrench. For a fee. Not cheap. Remember that the torque range for a standard barrel nut is 30-80 foot pounds, so it's not a "precision" thing. You SHOULD use a torque wrench, because "feeling" less than 30 or more than 80 is what they call "error prone" in the precision measurement world. I check my wrench now and then. It's an 18" long wrench, so I do a little, simple math and apply various weights to the end of the wrench and see where it clicks. To get 30 foot-pounds at the socket, you apply TWENTY pounds at the end of the 18" wrench. To get 90 foot pounds, apply SIXTY to the end of the wrench. I check 30, 60 and 90 settings on the wrench with 20, 40, and 60 pounds respectively, and if the wrench is ±5% or so, I'm happy. I may eventually have to start charting errors with the wrench, as it drifts away from that ±5%, but that's simpler than going to the store to buy a new one. |
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I for one believe you get what you pay for. I have tried to cheap out a few times and buy Harbor Freight's version of a tool I need. I have always regretted it and most times take the item back for a refund. My last mistake was the Ultrasonic cleaner. That POS just makes noise but does not do much else. So I would stay away from the crap there.
As GHPorter noted barrel nut torque is not really critical. You are torquing to a pretty wide range. I have Snap-On and Craftsman torque wrenches. Either will suit you fine. Click type, old school beam type or even dial type will serve to get you the readings you need. If you must go for a cheap tool I would buy the Home Depot or Lowe's versions. |
| i have 2 snap on torque wrenches and 1 harbor freight. the harbor freight is just as accurate as my 2 snap on torque wrenches. for building ars i would be fine with just a harbor freight or craftsman torque wrench. i use the snap on torque wrenches for work so the get used more often. for something you are going to use once or twice i would just buy a cheaper torque wrench. |
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i have a (below) on the little more expensive side. Cheaper may get done what you want though. Mine has worked good though for the few times i have use it.
Wrench |
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Go to garagejournal and look up the HF torque wrench reviews. It's probably one of the best buys you can get at HF next to the 44" roller cabinet and the HF Pro line of composite, steel, and stubby (flex and non flex) ratchets.
I have had a set of 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" torque wrenches from HF and they have all held their accuracy over the last 6 or so years plus several moves. They cost a fraction of the snap on one I had (and have since sold). |
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seems like harbor freight is hit or miss, which i expected In my opinion it is miss or big miss. I bought one of their mini-mills to make some 80% lowers and do minor projects in my workshop. I bought it because I had a coupon and figured for my needs it would be good enough. I really wanted the Taig but could not justify double the cost for it over the HF model. Well once I got it home and it took a few hours to disassemble it and clean the sticky red grease off everything Then I trammed the adjustable column and tried to machine some scrap aluminum for a test. That was a big fail. So the I bought the solid column and base from Little Machine shop. In the end once I got done making this POS usable I had spent the same money on it as I would of the Taig. I know so many people who when it comes to their guns or reloading are of the "buy once, cry once" mentality. However when it comes to tools they cheap out and go buy junk. |
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Quoted:
In my opinion it is miss or big miss. I bought one of their mini-mills to make some 80% lowers and do minor projects in my workshop. I bought it because I had a coupon and figured for my needs it would be good enough. I really wanted the Taig but could not justify double the cost for it over the HF model. Well once I got it home and it took a few hours to disassemble it and clean the sticky red grease off everything Then I trammed the adjustable column and tried to machine some scrap aluminum for a test. That was a big fail. So the I bought the solid column and base from Little Machine shop. In the end once I got done making this POS usable I had spent the same money on it as I would of the Taig. I know so many people who when it comes to their guns or reloading are of the "buy once, cry once" mentality. However when it comes to tools they cheap out and go buy junk. Quoted:
Quoted:
seems like harbor freight is hit or miss, which i expected In my opinion it is miss or big miss. I bought one of their mini-mills to make some 80% lowers and do minor projects in my workshop. I bought it because I had a coupon and figured for my needs it would be good enough. I really wanted the Taig but could not justify double the cost for it over the HF model. Well once I got it home and it took a few hours to disassemble it and clean the sticky red grease off everything Then I trammed the adjustable column and tried to machine some scrap aluminum for a test. That was a big fail. So the I bought the solid column and base from Little Machine shop. In the end once I got done making this POS usable I had spent the same money on it as I would of the Taig. I know so many people who when it comes to their guns or reloading are of the "buy once, cry once" mentality. However when it comes to tools they cheap out and go buy junk. those coupons tempt me as well. i usually stick to harbor freight when it comes to small ticket tools like pliers and such |
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which one do you use for barrel and muzzle device install? I'm in the market for one and need opinions on what works, and what don't I typically don't worry about torque wrench accuracy when putting a barrel nut on or a crush washer for a flash hider, hell you really don't even need to use one .If you are going to use one all you have to do is set the wrench at 30 ft lbs, use a good moly grease and seat the barrel nut three times, Then set it for 35 ft lbs for the final tightening. Once you get 35 ft lbs chances are that you are still going to need to turn the barrel nut to the next scallop for gas tube alignment. That could take as much as 80 to 120 ft lbs to get there, it doesn't matter what your Torque wrench reads or how accurate it is - you still have to align the gas tube, BTW, I never use shims. YMMV. |
| I use Craftsman tq wrenches. I have had barrel nuts that would not align at the low torque, and setting the tq wrench to 80ft/lbs and going for the next available slot may or may not be successful. You can go for minimum tq by feel and hope your barrel doesn't wobble while shooting, or you can go for max tq by feel and hope you don't snap your receiver. |
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Quoted:
I typically don't worry about torque wrench accuracy when putting a barrel nut on or a crush washer for a flash hider, hell you really don't even need to use one .If you are going to use one all you have to do is set the wrench at 30 ft lbs, use a good moly grease and seat the barrel nut three times, Then set it for 35 ft lbs for the final tightening. Once you get 35 ft lbs chances are that you are still going to need to turn the barrel nut to the next scallop for gas tube alignment. That could take as much as 80 to 120 ft lbs to get there, it doesn't matter what your Torque wrench reads or how accurate it is - you still have to align the gas tube, BTW, I never use shims. YMMV. I agree with what he said. |
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looks like I'm most likely going to go with this craftsman torque wrench, won't break the bank, and hopefully won't literally break.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-3-8inch-drive/p-00931423000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&pla&kpid=00931423000&kispla=00931423000P&kpid=00931423000&mktRedirect=y |
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looks like I'm most likely going to go with this craftsman torque wrench, won't break the bank, and hopefully won't literally break. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-3-8inch-drive/p-00931423000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&pla&kpid=00931423000&kispla=00931423000P&kpid=00931423000&mktRedirect=y The wrench you linked to is a 3/8" drive, while most barrel nut wrenches are 1/2" drive. Not all of 'em, but most. Just so you don't get a rude surprise... |
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The wrench you linked to is a 3/8" drive, while most barrel nut wrenches are 1/2" drive. Not all of 'em, but most. Just so you don't get a rude surprise... Quoted:
Quoted:
looks like I'm most likely going to go with this craftsman torque wrench, won't break the bank, and hopefully won't literally break. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-3-8inch-drive/p-00931423000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&pla&kpid=00931423000&kispla=00931423000P&kpid=00931423000&mktRedirect=y The wrench you linked to is a 3/8" drive, while most barrel nut wrenches are 1/2" drive. Not all of 'em, but most. Just so you don't get a rude surprise... whoops! i know my AR wrench is 1/2 inch, i thought i clicked on 1/2" on sears' site. |
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