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Posted: 12/31/2014 4:46:22 PM EDT
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Here is a video that I did of a Rear Takedown Pin Set Screw install
(6 min, that's how long it takes...) http://youtu.be/dQUezyWxbq4 |
| Good vid, but might add in for those who are less experienced to be sure that the finished end of the spring goes in first, so that you don't have a clipped coil trying to ride over the back of the detent pin and bind it in the hole. It could bind bad enough that you no longer have the second step of the detent function, and wind up destroying the spring during removal by hyper-extending it. |
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I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze or something on there. When you thread that hole, you will be removing the anodizing. When using stainless hardware you will get galvanic corrosion if it ever gets wet. Once that happens you'll not be able to get that set screw out. But why would you ever?! It's not like the spring would wear out, but there is always that one time you'll need to for some reason.
Using something like aqua-lube will prevent that from happening. You could also use loc-tite. You won't need it to be used to stop the screw from backing out, but it can limit water from getting between the stainless and unfinished aluminum. I've used both for various underwater applications where stainless hardware is screwed into aluminum parts. Cerakoting, reanodizing, or other coating woudl also reduce/remedy this issue. Love the idea. I've got an unfinished New Frontier lower that came with the set screw already in place. |
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Quoted:
I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze or something on there. When you thread that hole, you will be removing the anodizing. When using stainless hardware you will get galvanic corrosion if it ever gets wet. Once that happens you'll not be able to get that set screw out. But why would you ever?! It's not like the spring would wear out, but there is always that one time you'll need to for some reason. Using something like aqua-lube will prevent that from happening. You could also use loc-tite. You won't need it to be used to stop the screw from backing out, but it can limit water from getting between the stainless and unfinished aluminum. I've used both for various underwater applications where stainless hardware is screwed into aluminum parts. Cerakoting, reanodizing, or other coating woudl also reduce/remedy this issue. Love the idea. I've got an unfinished New Frontier lower that came with the set screw already in place. I've added anti-seize to the 3-4 lowers Ive done. I can see that little screw being a pain to remove after a few years of sitting in there even if there wasn't any corrosion...forget about it if there was! The only option if that screw gets stuck and you needed to replace the spring or detent would be to drill out the screw I imagine. Id like to avoid doing that...especially in my pricey Noveske lowers! |
| Thanks for sharing. Looks like another good addition to the lower and this is perfect timing for me as I'm going to be replacing a receiver end plate with a Magpul ASAP-QD shortly. Looks like I'll be picking up another tap and set screw (I'm a big fan of tapping the grip hole and adding a set screw to remove trigger creep on MilSpec triggers). |
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