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Posted: 8/16/2014 1:57:16 AM EDT
| I have a beautiful build that Denny at GTS made many years ago with a vlotr forged upper, kreiger stainless, and DD 12 or 13" rail. it has a smith vortex on there and i was trying to take it off to put on a surefire for my new suppressor. it took a fair amount of force, but i figured i had a geiselle reaction rod in so i would be ok. after getting off the device my rail now has some play (wiggle) to it that it didn't have before. does anyone have any ideas what i possibly damaged or loosened in the process? do i have to get a new barrel nut? possible damage to barrel or upper? thanks in advance. |
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Did you put the barrel in a barrel vise? isn't that the point of the geiselle reaction rod? that's what you put in the vice. F-it i'm just going to take the rail off and start over. time for a new rail anyway. got to be in fashion with all slicksides.thanks for the replies. |
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isn't that the point of the geiselle reaction rod? that's what you put in the vice. F-it i'm just going to take the rail off and start over. time for a new rail anyway. got to be in fashion with all slicksides.thanks for the replies. Quoted:
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Did you put the barrel in a barrel vise? isn't that the point of the geiselle reaction rod? that's what you put in the vice. F-it i'm just going to take the rail off and start over. time for a new rail anyway. got to be in fashion with all slicksides.thanks for the replies. With a reaction rod it shouldn't have damaged anything outside of possibly loosening your barrel extension. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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With a reaction rod it shouldn't have damaged anything outside of possibly loosening your barrel extension. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile Quoted:
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Quoted:
Did you put the barrel in a barrel vise? isn't that the point of the geiselle reaction rod? that's what you put in the vice. F-it i'm just going to take the rail off and start over. time for a new rail anyway. got to be in fashion with all slicksides.thanks for the replies. With a reaction rod it shouldn't have damaged anything outside of possibly loosening your barrel extension. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Did you put the barrel in a barrel vise? isn't that the point of the geiselle reaction rod? that's what you put in the vice. F-it i'm just going to take the rail off and start over. time for a new rail anyway. got to be in fashion with all slicksides.thanks for the replies. With a reaction rod it shouldn't have damaged anything outside of possibly loosening your barrel extension. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile After reading, how is it possible that i loosened the barrel extension just removing the muzzle devices? that should fall under a warranty on the barrel then right because that should be torqued to about 150 ft-lbs? |
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I clamp barrels in vice jaws on general principle, as there is no possibility of creating other problems.
It is unlikely that removing a properly installed Vortex would twist the barrel in the extension normally. Even if the barrel was torqued to 150 ft/lbs that does not necessarily mean after years of use it would take 150 ft/lbs to twist the barrel in the extension So a “fair amount of force” may have a bearing on the issue. It is also unlikely that removing the FS using a reaction rod caused the rail to come loose directly. Barrel nuts come loose occasionally a free float tube attached to the nut just adds to the possibilities. Also free float tubes have been known to come loose on the mount. |
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I clamp barrels in vice jaws on general principle, as there is no possibility of creating other problems. It is unlikely that removing a properly installed Vortex would twist the barrel in the extension normally. Even if the barrel was torqued to 150 ft/lbs that does not necessarily mean after years of use it would take 150 ft/lbs to twist the barrel in the extension So a “fair amount of force” may have a bearing on the issue. It is also unlikely that removing the FS using a reaction rod caused the rail to come loose directly. Barrel nuts come loose occasionally a free float tube attached to the nut just adds to the possibilities. Also free float tubes have been known to come loose on the mount. Thanks for the reply. What is the best way to determine if the barrel extension is loose? Is hand-checking it sufficient once I get the rail off? Waiting for an adjustable spanner wrench for MSC since I have a legacy FSP DD rail with this 2.25" lock nut... |
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If it is loose it should be obvious. Look at the alignment between the gas port and index pin. Why do you think your barrel may be loose? That is not a common problem unless you applied really a lot of torque to break the FS free. Definitely not sure if barrel is loose. Abbreviated story: went to uninstall flash hider using geissele reaction rod, required good force but nothing crazy (only used spikes tactical wrench which is about 6"), after uninstalling DD FSP omega rail has a little bit of wiggle if rotated firmly. I was just hoping I didn't damage the receiver or the barrel. Is there a way once I get the rail off to tell if I screwed the upper also? Thanks again for your help. |
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Definitely not sure if barrel is loose. Abbreviated story: went to uninstall flash hider using geissele reaction rod, required good force but nothing crazy (only used spikes tactical wrench which is about 6"), after uninstalling DD FSP omega rail has a little bit of wiggle if rotated firmly. I was just hoping I didn't damage the receiver or the barrel. Is there a way once I get the rail off to tell if I screwed the upper also? Thanks again for your help. Quoted:
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If it is loose it should be obvious. Look at the alignment between the gas port and index pin. Why do you think your barrel may be loose? That is not a common problem unless you applied really a lot of torque to break the FS free. Definitely not sure if barrel is loose. Abbreviated story: went to uninstall flash hider using geissele reaction rod, required good force but nothing crazy (only used spikes tactical wrench which is about 6"), after uninstalling DD FSP omega rail has a little bit of wiggle if rotated firmly. I was just hoping I didn't damage the receiver or the barrel. Is there a way once I get the rail off to tell if I screwed the upper also? Thanks again for your help. If you damaged the upper the notch the pin rides in will be obviously deformed. Is there a chance the rail was loose before and you just didn't notice it? The rail should attach to the barrel nut which secures the barrel extension. The reaction rod holds the extension firmly so all you could have done is started taking the barrel out of the extension which wouldn't loosen your rail. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Definitely not sure if barrel is loose. Abbreviated story: went to uninstall flash hider using geissele reaction rod, required good force but nothing crazy (only used spikes tactical wrench which is about 6"), after uninstalling DD FSP omega rail has a little bit of wiggle if rotated firmly. I was just hoping I didn't damage the receiver or the barrel. Is there a way once I get the rail off to tell if I screwed the upper also? Thanks again for your help. Quoted:
Quoted:
If it is loose it should be obvious. Look at the alignment between the gas port and index pin. Why do you think your barrel may be loose? That is not a common problem unless you applied really a lot of torque to break the FS free. Definitely not sure if barrel is loose. Abbreviated story: went to uninstall flash hider using geissele reaction rod, required good force but nothing crazy (only used spikes tactical wrench which is about 6"), after uninstalling DD FSP omega rail has a little bit of wiggle if rotated firmly. I was just hoping I didn't damage the receiver or the barrel. Is there a way once I get the rail off to tell if I screwed the upper also? Thanks again for your help. If the barrel will not twist back and forth by hand and the gas tube and gas block are not canted then most likely you did not cause any problems. That is not 100% because some builders/manufacturers have been known to let out weapons with canted gas blocks. |
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