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Posted: 7/5/2014 1:29:07 PM EDT
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I love the Geisselle Reaction rod but as I'm sure many of you have had the same problem the upper always tends to slide towards me and it disengages the lugs on the rod. I know you can mount the rod vertically but i'm not comfortable turning wrenches in that direction so i came up with a simple solution.
I placed the upper on the vice with the upper fully engaged on the lugs. I then scribed it so that i could see where it was sitting. I took it to the mill and centered a 1/4" drill bit to the scribe line and moved over .1875" this is giving me a 1/6" tolerance for other uppers. Once i drilled the hole right in the middle of the ejection port opening i drilled another hole 90 degrees apart. The reason for the second hole serves two purposes, one so that you can clock the upper to a different location in 90 deg increments and two so that i can use a KNS Pivot pin. With the second hole there the engagement lugs on the KNS push pin engage in the cavity of the second hole, hence not allowing it to back out unless you push the button on the pin to disengage it. This will keep your upper perfectly secured on the rod without any worries of it disengaging. Now you can drink a beer while you torque your barrel nut. lol http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j203/anibal999r/GMOD-1.jpg http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j203/anibal999r/GMOD-2.jpg The Pivot pin works best as it is longer than the take-down pin http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j203/anibal999r/knspin.jpg |
lol Man i see i messed up pretty bad! Guys as much as i would like to take in the work there is just not enough time in my day to accomplish so many side projects. We have a new born and time is sacred just like sleep. 
I am pretty sure this material is not hardened (well at least not that part of the rod) so anyone with a decent drill press should be able to accomplish this with a good carbide drill bit, not your Lowes, Home Depot bits. If anyone needs any help i'll be happy to walk them through it. |
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Yup once it angles down it slips really easy, but even when you are torquing you are always having to place constant pressure in the direction of the receiver in fear of it slipping off. Another problem is usually as you are torquing the rod slips in the jaws angling it down causing the problem.
I was thinking of machining a small shoulder to eliminate this problem as well. Like making a "T" shape out of the area you clamp on the vise. |
| I applaud your work, but I really haven't found keeping the upper on the Reaction Rod to be a problem, especially if it is angled slightly above horizontal. That doesn't mean I don't appreciate your work or sharing it on the forum. I will keep it in mind if I run into the slipping issue. Thanks. |
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Why not just one hole, thread it, and use a machine bolt ? I guess you could do that but i would put a plastic bushing sleeve so that it doesn't mess up the finish like previously stated. I prefer the pins and the two holes because i like to index it 90 deg. |
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Threads could potentially cause damage to the upper. Quoted:
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Why not just one hole, thread it, and use a machine bolt ? Just use a shouldered bolt and cut the threaded end off to give you the right length of threads. You would only have to tap it 1/4 to 5/16 deep to have enough threads to hold. |
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Yes, obviously cover any exposed threads to protect the upper:
tape (masking, electric, duct); tubing (vacuum, heater, pvc, rubber), a thick layer of RTV silicon. Or cut off the bolt so only 3/4 inch of thread is exposed and but a vacuum cap (nipple) on it - epoxy optional; or just epoxy the threads - Gee the choices are nearly infinite. 
Also the bolt does not need to be as MASSIVE as the OPs push-to-release pin, therefore less structural damage to the Action Rod. The only purpose of this pin/bolt is to keep the A-Rod from sliding. 
Brain-fart – how about a thumb-tab bolt that has about ¼ to 3/8 inch of thread into the A-Rod and ¾ thread exposed (and of course covered - see above). This will allow tool-less insertion into and removal from the A-Rod. Only need a 8-32 threading. Probably get the thumb-tab bolt at Ace Hardware for 10 cents. 
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Quoted:
Yes, obviously cover any exposed threads to protect the upper: tape (masking, electric, duct); tubing (vacuum, heater, pvc, rubber), a thick layer of RTV silicon. Or cut off the bolt so only 3/4 inch of thread is exposed and but a vacuum cap (nipple) on it - epoxy optional; or just epoxy the threads - Gee the choices are nearly infinite.
Also the bolt does not need to be as MASSIVE as the OPs push-to-release pin, therefore less structural damage to the Action Rod. The only purpose of this pin/bolt is to keep the A-Rod from sliding.
Brain-fart – how about a thumb-tab bolt that has about ¼ to 3/8 inch of thread into the A-Rod and ¾ thread exposed (and of course covered - see above). This will allow tool-less insertion into and removal from the A-Rod. Only need a 8-32 threading. Probably get the thumb-tab bolt at Ace Hardware for 10 cents. I used what i had on hand at the time but if i had to buy something i'm sure you can find a push pin at McMaster Carr for about $5-7 http://www.mcmaster.com/#95255a285/=t4g65e |
| Nice idea OP. I used a bungee cord going around the top of the upper where I had a qd sling mount installed on the top rail and set the hooks into two eye bolts I installed into the bench behind the vice. Drilled through the table and used washers/hex nuts to set the bolts so that I could install them and remove them when needed. Another idea is to use shorter hook bungees, one going into the gas tube hole over the top or to a mount like the Magpul RSA, the other hooking to one of the eye bolts or anywhere on the vice that will catch. There's a lot of options here since there's only a need for slight rearward pressure. Plus no altering of the RR needed. Just my .02 |
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this is why my vice jaws can be rotated. Still a great idea though. Mine rotates too, this just makes the RR more versatile. I can easily rotate the upper and push out gas block pins, remove rails. Like the kmr rail you have to pull on it to get it off with force, this made quick work without having to switch to a mag block. |
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Nice idea OP. I used a bungee cord going around the top of the upper where I had a qd sling mount installed on the top rail and set the hooks into two eye bolts I installed into the bench behind the vice. Drilled through the table and used washers/hex nuts to set the bolts so that I could install them and remove them when needed. Another idea is to use shorter hook bungees, one going into the gas tube hole over the top or to a mount like the Magpul RSA, the other hooking to one of the eye bolts or anywhere on the vice that will catch. There's a lot of options here since there's only a need for slight rearward pressure. Plus no altering of the RR needed. Just my .02 Sounds good but don't the bungees stretch while you are pulling and tugging? I use the RR for more things than just the typical barrel nut and muzzle break install. |
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This is a very good idea - I also used the bungee cord method - hooked the bungee to an empty scope ring on
Upper’s rail and then attached the other end to the vise. The pin/bolt method is cleaner and more versatile than a bungee cord, however according to Geissele drilling into the Reaction Rod invalidates the warranty. 
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Quoted:
Sounds good but don't the bungees stretch while you are pulling and tugging? I use the RR for more things than just the typical barrel nut and muzzle break install. Quoted:
Quoted:
Nice idea OP. I used a bungee cord going around the top of the upper where I had a qd sling mount installed on the top rail and set the hooks into two eye bolts I installed into the bench behind the vice. Drilled through the table and used washers/hex nuts to set the bolts so that I could install them and remove them when needed. Another idea is to use shorter hook bungees, one going into the gas tube hole over the top or to a mount like the Magpul RSA, the other hooking to one of the eye bolts or anywhere on the vice that will catch. There's a lot of options here since there's only a need for slight rearward pressure. Plus no altering of the RR needed. Just my .02 Sounds good but don't the bungees stretch while you are pulling and tugging? I use the RR for more things than just the typical barrel nut and muzzle break install. If it's too long it will but one sized just right to where its tension is close to maxed out when attached works perfectly. I set the bungee on the upper and stretched it back to know where to set the eye bolts. I couldn't pull the barrel off the RR when its set without excessive force. Quality bungees with coiled hook connections, 6 to 12" long and 1/4 to 3/8" thick are ideal. Also, if you run the bungee over the vice it's provides a bit of upward pull on the RR for torqueing in a downward direction. It's not going to stop it from shifting if you're torqueing at the wrong angle but it does provide a little extra support. Jerry rig, yes, but very effective so far. |
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