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Posted: 6/18/2014 8:38:24 AM EDT
| I was putting a barrel on a friends gun and I really had to torque it to get to the next hole. My friend asked if we could just dremel the tooth that was in the way and leave it as is. It seemed like it would work but I told him the right way was to get it to the next hole and I did but the question is instead of shims has anyone heard of taking down one of the sprocket teeth to get the gas tube in? |
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Quoted:
I was putting a barrel on a friends gun and I really had to torque it to get to the next hole. My friend asked if we could just dremel the tooth that was in the way and leave it as is. It seemed like it would work but I told him the right way was to get it to the next hole and I did but the question is instead of shims has anyone heard of taking down one of the sprocket teeth to get the gas tube in? Don't. Shim or face the receiver with fine (600 grit) sandpaper on a flat (glass is good) surface if you are exceeding 80 ft/lbs on the barrel nut. |
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Buy a package of these and you'll be good to go.
You will most likely only need 1 or 2 of the paper thin shims max. |
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Quoted:
Do not dremel off the teeth; they are there for a purpose Back the barrel nut off and tighten it down.. try this two or three times to get it to line up. If its way off after doing that you got another problem. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/499708_.html And this purpose is ? Most of the newer rail systems come with their own proprietary nut, sans teeth. |
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Quoted:
And this purpose is ? Most of the newer rail systems come with their own proprietary nut, sans teeth. Quoted:
Quoted:
Do not dremel off the teeth; they are there for a purpose Back the barrel nut off and tighten it down.. try this two or three times to get it to line up. If its way off after doing that you got another problem. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/499708_.html And this purpose is ? Most of the newer rail systems come with their own proprietary nut, sans teeth. To keep the barrel nut from backing off. The gas tube keeps it in place. I would assume that allowing too much play in the barrel nut if something were to happen would damage the gas tube |
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I will agree with you that it "would" prevent the nut from backing off. Whether or not it is needed.... probably not. Even for Troy/VTac Rail systems one tooth at 12:00 isn't going to matter.
There is a whole laundry list of rails being produced today with one of the benefits of not having to time a barrel nut. Of course I do agree that taking a Dremel to a tooth is a Bubba move. |
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I did get the nut to index on the next hole so didn't need shims or to take down some of the receiver, just curious if sometimes people take down a tooth to get the gas tube in on the GI type barrel nut.
I know that the sprocket and gas tube helps to hold the nut in place if it loosened but I can tell you from experience that it is enough to have your groups shoot all over the place. My DPMS with varmint barrel was shooting fine when it loosened enough that you could move the nut with your fingers. The DPMS folks didn't take it to the next hole and just stopped short and maybe used lock tite. When I rebarreled I went with a WOA free float tube that didn't need to get indexed. Anywho, thanks for your help. |
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