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Posted: 1/13/2014 1:54:56 PM EDT
| I'm gathering parts to assemble an upper. This will be my first upper to build. I screwed up and ordered a PRI barrel wrench and forgot that the front sight base has to be removed to use the "full circle" style wrench. So should I knock out the front sight pins and use the PRI wrench or order another wrench that doesn't require the removal of the front sight? Barrel is a JT Distributing 14.5. Leaning towards ordering other wrench since the pins can be a pain in the ass. Who makes a decent wrench for less money? |
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Quoted:
I'm gathering parts to assemble an upper. This will be my first upper to build. I screwed up and ordered a PRI barrel wrench and forgot that the front sight base has to be removed to use the "full circle" style wrench. So should I knock out the front sight pins and use the PRI wrench or order another wrench that doesn't require the removal of the front sight? Barrel is a JT Distributing 14.5. Leaning towards ordering other wrench since the pins can be a pain in the ass. Who makes a decent wrench for less money? This is by far the best Armorers Wrench I have ever used. Made by Gem State Armory. Only $40 for a lifetime of service. |
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Quoted:
Knocking the pins out isn't a big deal. Start with a large punch to get them started. Once you get them started moving, then switch to a punch the same size as the pins. Make sure you're hitting them the right way. I have a large brass rod to get them started and a punch to finish knocking them out. From what I understand, most tapered pins knock out from left to right. I think I'll go ahead and try knocking them out when the barrel arrives. If it doesn't work, I'll order another barrel wrench. ARKAR |
| Did it hold up well after you cut it? I don't see why it wouldn't work. Most wrenches have three rods and if cut correctly the PRI would retain 4, maybe 5. Only reason that I could see for it not to work is if the steel of the body is weaker and depends on the full circle for strength. |
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Quoted:
I have a large brass rod to get them started and a punch to finish knocking them out. From what I understand, most tapered pins knock out from left to right. I think I'll go ahead and try knocking them out when the barrel arrives. If it doesn't work, I'll order another barrel wrench. ARKAR Quoted:
Quoted:
Knocking the pins out isn't a big deal. Start with a large punch to get them started. Once you get them started moving, then switch to a punch the same size as the pins. Make sure you're hitting them the right way. I have a large brass rod to get them started and a punch to finish knocking them out. From what I understand, most tapered pins knock out from left to right. I think I'll go ahead and try knocking them out when the barrel arrives. If it doesn't work, I'll order another barrel wrench. ARKAR while most do come out from left to right, dont just assume it. grab a pair of calipers and measure. i actually had on once that went the other way and got it to move (their a bitch to get started so you may not notice your going the wrong way) and it got stuck and i had to drill it out. takes 2 seconds to check. its only about 10 thou diff so it might look right but not be right. also you want to put it on a really solid surface. some workbenches will absorb the blow and bounce a little and then its a bitch to get the pins started. |
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