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Posted: 11/20/2013 5:37:11 AM EDT
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My initial plan was to go with a clamp style gas block for my 3 gun build because it seems the clamp style is less likely to be knocked out of alignment.
But given the amount of set screw style blocks that I see and the fact that I can't find a clamp style block to fit under the hand guard I want to use (Midwest Industries Gen 2 SS Series) has me questioning whether I'm making too much about the reliability of a clamp style gas block. Anybody have any... 1. Thoughts on this? 2. Know where I can find a clamp style gas block that fits an front hand guard that is 1.3" inside diameter? Thx -K2 |
| I prefer clamp-on because of reasons you state. And it "clamps" with even pressure around the entire barrel instead of putting pressure in one spot. There's a lot of mating surface area, so as long as you torque down the screws good and tight, I doubt it would ever loosen. I don't know about the fit, but you could check the Yankee Hill (YHM-9384) clamp-on gas block. |
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I don't know about the fit, but you could check the Yankee Hill (YHM-9384) clamp-on gas block. Already checked that one. YHM replied to my email this morning. The 9384 is 1.5" tall. So does anyone have experience 'self-dimpling' a barrel for a set screw type gas block? -K2 |
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Already checked that one. YHM replied to my email this morning. The 9384 is 1.5" tall. So does anyone have experience 'self-dimpling' a barrel for a set screw type gas block? -K2 Quoted:
Quoted:
I don't know about the fit, but you could check the Yankee Hill (YHM-9384) clamp-on gas block. Already checked that one. YHM replied to my email this morning. The 9384 is 1.5" tall. So does anyone have experience 'self-dimpling' a barrel for a set screw type gas block? -K2 Plenty, but I've got a mill and center-bits... 
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Set-screws and pinned is the best answer. Check out the Geiselle Super gas block
"6. Spot drill barrel. Using a 135 deg split point #25 drill such as McMaster-Carr PN: 28765A75 spot drill the barrel through the open set screw hole. A hand drill works well for this step. All that is needed is a dimple so that the set screw enters into the dimple and does not pull up proud bumps when tightened. It also puts the set screw in shear from any axial or radial loads applied to the gas block in service. Blow out chips from drilling and install and tighten the 2nd set screw. Now remove the 1st set screw and dimple the barrel through that hole. Re-install the 1st set screw. Re-check gas tube alignment. It is permissible to use a locking compound such as Loctite Blue on the set screws." http://geissele.com/pdfs/gasblockinstructions.pdf 
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vltor's VST is a good clamp on and has an integral flip up sight and rail. It also has the option of a sling swivel attachment. Vltor has a done torque tests to try and move the gas block...its a video on their site. mine sits in front of my rail. one showing it up and one showing it folded down
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| If your life does not depend on this rifle then set screws will be just fine. Those who lives depend on rifles would even feel comfortable with a set screw block with a dimpled barrel. My last build i used a BCM low pro gas block that uses set screws and a dimpled barrel. I went one step further and sent the barrel and block in to be pinned as well. This is likely the most solid way to go but is definitely unnecessary. I like my rifles as tough as physically possible. Iv pushed them to the limits and id like to be comfortable in a high stress situation that my gas block (most of which is protected by my rail) could take a blunt for hit and not get miss aligned. |
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Set-screws and pinned is the best answer. Check out the Geiselle Super gas block "6. Spot drill barrel. Using a 135 deg split point #25 drill such as McMaster-Carr PN: 28765A75 spot drill the barrel through the open set screw hole. A hand drill works well for this step. All that is needed is a dimple so that the set screw enters into the dimple and does not pull up proud bumps when tightened. It also puts the set screw in shear from any axial or radial loads applied to the gas block in service. Blow out chips from drilling and install and tighten the 2nd set screw. Now remove the 1st set screw and dimple the barrel through that hole. Re-install the 1st set screw. Re-check gas tube alignment. It is permissible to use a locking compound such as Loctite Blue on the set screws." Thanks for the info - I like the Geiselle. May go that route and just use the set screws in the beginning. I can have it pinned later if need be. Dimpling seems a fairly straight forward process and I have to believe that, once dimpled, drilling for the pin shouldn't be too hard. Maybe it's time to buy a drill press.... Thx -K2 |
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I like set screws if the barrel is dimpled |
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Quoted:
Already checked that one. YHM replied to my email this morning. The 9384 is 1.5" tall. So does anyone have experience 'self-dimpling' a barrel for a set screw type gas block? -K2 Quoted:
Quoted:
I don't know about the fit, but you could check the Yankee Hill (YHM-9384) clamp-on gas block. Already checked that one. YHM replied to my email this morning. The 9384 is 1.5" tall. So does anyone have experience 'self-dimpling' a barrel for a set screw type gas block? -K2 Yup. I use the Rainier Gas Block Barrel Dimpler (cleverly named) for doing this. https://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=1089 Take your time and use a hand drill, and it comes out very nicely. |
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