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9/26/2013 5:34:26 PM EDT
I built my first AR-15 a few years ago with an order from Model 1 sales.  I've since decided that I want to swap the standard gas block with one that has a flip up front-sight.  Is this easy to do, or no?  Will I need to take it to a gunsmith?  

Here's a picture of my current setup that I posted to PixPipeline.com...  

http://pixpipeline.com/st/d9ec798d411d.jpg

Any advice you can offer would be appreciated.  

Thanks!
9/26/2013 6:20:24 PM EDT
[#1]
You could do it yourself if you are handy at that. I, personally, would just cut your FSB down and put a flip up sight on your existing rail . My opinion only.

Edit. It all depends on the look your after.
9/26/2013 7:07:01 PM EDT
[#2]
Hammer those bastards out and replace it. It's seriously very easy.
9/26/2013 8:47:05 PM EDT
[#3]
To take that A2 site/gas block off you will need a few gun related tools and some punches, that site is held on with 2 taper pins and the gas tube is held into that site with a tiny roll pin, all of those need to be punched out from the LEFT side to the RIGHT, in most cases as the larger pins are tapered. Getting those large pins out is tricky and I just did it my self. I had a set of craftsman punches in assorted sizes and I actually bent one of the punches trying to get those big pins out. Its not a hard job but can be very frustrating if those pins are stubborn. Brownells even makes a bock to sit that Site/gas block into for better support. Best tip I can give you is be patient and search you tube as there are a tons of how to's on there. If you don't feel comfortable take it to a gun smith. I did mine first time around and its wasnt fun by any means, in fact to date I would rank that has the hardest/most frustrating job to date as far as working on my ar15 only due to the pins. Once those are out your golden. YMMV

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9/27/2013 6:26:27 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote History
Quoted:
Best tip I can give you is be patient and search you tube as there are a tons of how to's on there. If you don't feel comfortable take it to a gun smith. I did mine first time around and its wasnt fun by any means, in fact to date I would rank that has the hardest/most frustrating job to date as far as working on my ar15 only due to the roll pins. Once those are out your golden. YMMV
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Thanks for the tips!

Do you know if I'll run into any issues sliding it over my A2 flashider?  Does that need to come off too?? .....

http://pixpipeline.com/st/ccf24a5f3cee.jpg
9/27/2013 6:40:04 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote History
Quoted:


Thanks for the tips!

Do you know if I'll run into any issues sliding it over my A2 flashider?  Does that need to come off too?? .....

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Quoted:
Quoted:
Best tip I can give you is be patient and search you tube as there are a tons of how to's on there. If you don't feel comfortable take it to a gun smith. I did mine first time around and its wasnt fun by any means, in fact to date I would rank that has the hardest/most frustrating job to date as far as working on my ar15 only due to the roll pins. Once those are out your golden. YMMV


Thanks for the tips!

Do you know if I'll run into any issues sliding it over my A2 flashider?  Does that need to come off too?? .....

</a>

Yes it does...
9/27/2013 6:59:03 AM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:

Yes it does...
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Do you know if I'll run into any issues sliding it over my A2 flashider?  Does that need to come off too?? .....


Yes it does...


What does that involve?  Or should I just YouTube it?

9/27/2013 7:11:46 AM EDT
[#7]
The flash hider is normally threaded on with a peel washer to keep tension.  If that's the case, It can be removed with a wrench.  Worst case is if it was pinned and welded on, or silver soldered.  If you have a 14.7" barrel, this is done to make legal length.
9/27/2013 8:19:29 AM EDT
[#8]
"Hammer those bastards out and replace it. It's seriously very easy"

Question: I worked for a mill chain manufacturer,( think 14# chain links for moving logs thru a mill) and we had to remove pins and add attachments sometimes. I found drilling thru the centers of the pins first allowed the pins relief and made removal easier. 3 minutes vs 10 mins with a sledge hammer is a wrist saver. Wouldn't this work as well with roll pins?
Just asking?
9/27/2013 12:50:03 PM EDT
[#9]
Front sight base pins are usually taper pins, not roll pins.

They also interface with a transverse cut in the barrel, so the risk/benefit of drilling on the pins is higher on the "damage barrel and destroy FSB" side of things than using a good punch and whacking the pins like you gotta pair.
9/27/2013 2:45:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote History
Quoted:
Front sight base pins are usually taper pins, not roll pins.

They also interface with a transverse cut in the barrel, so the risk/benefit of drilling on the pins is higher on the "damage barrel and destroy FSB" side of things than using a good punch and whacking the pins like you gotta pair.
View Quote

Correct, I edited my post and removed the word roll... And as for whacking it; I started out with a ball peen hammer and finished up with the heaviest roofing hammer I had in my tool box but I cant stress enough about making sure the site is supported well on the hardest thing you can use so those hits count and are not absorbed by something else other than those pins.
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