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Posted: 7/22/2013 1:37:09 PM EDT
| what is the correct position to have the torque when torqueing the barrel? I have seen from the armorers book that the wrench should be parellel to the tool but some show 90 degrees? Wouldn't I get different readings? |
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Depends on how accurate you want your torque to be...
This will explain what you need to know (if you're interested). Torquing with an adapter |
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Quoted:
I have read the manual but with the torque wrench that I have it says 90 degrees. And if I didn't have a question there would be no need for forums. "RTFM" The RTFM was not directed at you. So, you either have to go with the torque wrench instructions or the TM. You get one guess. 
Hint: The torque wrench manual is going to talk about standard operating procedure in the automotive, aircraft, industrial arenas. |
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It's always been PARALLEL. The extension dimension is already factored in. It is made cystal clear in the M16/M4 Tech Manual. So, is one to assume that every armorer's wrench is made to the exact same dimensions or does the Tech Manual only refer to the combination wrench as shown? "Using combination wrench (10) and torque wrench, torque barrel nut assembly (9) to 30 ft-lb (40.5 N-m). Torque is measured when both wrenches are used together." Step 9 Page 3-41 (Page 155 of the pdf) https://colfaxtactical.com/docs/AR-15%20manual.pdf |
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Quoted:
Throw the torque wrench back in the tool box. Tighten and loosen three times then tighten to next point of alignment. Done. I second that! Hand tighten the barrel nut then use your wrench,you may have to loosen and tighten 4 or 5 times to get the right position but 30 psi minimum is not rocket science.I have ruined more barrel nuts using a torque wrench period. |
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So, is one to assume that every armorer's wrench is made to the exact same dimensions or does the Tech Manual only refer to the combination wrench as shown? The tech manual only refers to the correct and authorized tool - the GI combination tool. However, if the 1/2" drive socket hole of any commercial tool is located at the same distance from the center of the wrench jaw, it is functionally identical to the GI combination wrench. When I lay my GI combination tool up against my heavy-duty commercial armorer's wrench, I see that the 1/2" drive socket location is indeed at the exact same distance from the center of the wrench jaw, so the same procedure can be applied to my commercial wrench, at least. |
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Quoted: I second that! Hand tighten the barrel nut then use your wrench,you may have to loosen and tighten 4 or 5 times to get the right position but 30 psi minimum is not rocket science.I have ruined more barrel nuts using a torque wrench period. Quoted: Quoted: Throw the torque wrench back in the tool box. Tighten and loosen three times then tighten to next point of alignment. Done. I second that! Hand tighten the barrel nut then use your wrench,you may have to loosen and tighten 4 or 5 times to get the right position but 30 psi minimum is not rocket science.I have ruined more barrel nuts using a torque wrench period. I am totally blown away by the lack of logic / mechanical skills on this forum when discussing barrel nut tightening. The torque does not matter. You are tightening the nut to a specific position, to align the hole for the gas tube. How do people not get this? |
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Quoted:
So, is one to assume that every armorer's wrench is made to the exact same dimensions or does the Tech Manual only refer to the combination wrench as shown? Quoted:
Quoted:
It's always been PARALLEL. The extension dimension is already factored in. It is made cystal clear in the M16/M4 Tech Manual. So, is one to assume that every armorer's wrench is made to the exact same dimensions or does the Tech Manual only refer to the combination wrench as shown? Yes, the standoff is approx 1-3/4" on the USGI wrench and the aftermarket wrenches I've handled are about the same. |
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Quoted:
This. I am totally blown away by the lack of logic / mechanical skills on this forum when discussing barrel nut tightening. The torque does not matter. You are tightening the nut to a specific position, to align the hole for the gas tube. How do people not get this? Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Throw the torque wrench back in the tool box. Tighten and loosen three times then tighten to next point of alignment. Done. I second that! Hand tighten the barrel nut then use your wrench,you may have to loosen and tighten 4 or 5 times to get the right position but 30 psi minimum is not rocket science.I have ruined more barrel nuts using a torque wrench period. I am totally blown away by the lack of logic / mechanical skills on this forum when discussing barrel nut tightening. The torque does not matter. You are tightening the nut to a specific position, to align the hole for the gas tube. How do people not get this? The bottom (30 ft lbs) of the torque range is for the 3x torque method (and minimum torque) as outlined in the TM. The top of the torque range is so that Bubba doesn't break something. Pretty simple. Personally, I've bolted down enough exhaust manifolds, intake mainifolds, cylinder heads, hubs etc to where I don't need the torque wrench for the barrel nut. It is however, a necessary tool for someone who hasn't done any disciplined wrenching. |
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I used a torque wrench because I had one already and I wanted to see where it came in at.
I did the 3x tighten loosen thing then with both wrenches parallel I tightened it to the next hole. It came out at around 42ftlb. Going to the next hole would have probably damaged the upper threads. 30-80 is a VERY large range and I believe it is there because without it the gorillas would crank it down as hard as they could with a cheater bar because everyone knows that more is gooder! |
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Quoted:
30-80 is a VERY large range and I believe it is there because without it the gorillas would crank it down as hard as they could with a cheater bar because everyone knows that more is gooder! I recently had an upper/barrel nut combo that was still in the middle of a tooth at 80 ft-lbs. I tried going back to the prior opening and it was not even hand tight. If I followed the advice of some and went without a torque wrench, I probably would have broke the receiver trying to align things. It's a relatively thin walled piece of aluminum, not a 3/4 ton truck axle. A different barrel nut fixed the problem. |
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Quoted: I recently had an upper/barrel nut combo that was still in the middle of a tooth at 80 ft-lbs. I tried going back to the prior opening and it was not even hand tight. If I followed the advice of some and went without a torque wrench, I probably would have broke the receiver trying to align things. It's a relatively thin walled piece of aluminum, not a 3/4 ton truck axle. A different barrel nut fixed the problem. Quoted: Quoted: 30-80 is a VERY large range and I believe it is there because without it the gorillas would crank it down as hard as they could with a cheater bar because everyone knows that more is gooder! I recently had an upper/barrel nut combo that was still in the middle of a tooth at 80 ft-lbs. I tried going back to the prior opening and it was not even hand tight. If I followed the advice of some and went without a torque wrench, I probably would have broke the receiver trying to align things. It's a relatively thin walled piece of aluminum, not a 3/4 ton truck axle. A different barrel nut fixed the problem. I guess that I have incorrectly assumed that anyone assembling their own rifle should have at least some mechanical ability. This sub-forum and these ridiculous threads have proven that belief to be horribly wrong.
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