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Posted: 11/15/2012 5:06:41 PM EDT
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I've built a handful of lowers before, but I've never assembled my own upper. It turns out it's a lot easier than I thought!
Before: http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u537/ferchmn/DSC02699.jpg After: http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u537/ferchmn/DSC02706.jpg http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u537/ferchmn/DSC02710.jpg http://i1320.photobucket.com/albums/u537/ferchmn/DSC02707.jpg Parts list: S&W lower No name upper Nordic 18" Wylde Competition barrel (http://shop.nordiccomp.com/Nordic-223-Wylde-18-Competition-Barrel-BBL-18R-223W.htm) and Nordic Tactical Comp MI 15" G2 Handguard DPMS LPK ACS-L stock Daniel Defense bolt and BCG YHM lo pro gas block I've got a Geissele trigger on the way as a birthday present from my wife. |
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Thanks guys.
I didn't use any special tools other than the block that holds the upper receiver when you tighten down the barrel nut, and a standard AR armorer's tool to tighted the castle nut on the stock. I've seen videos where guys just cut a chunk of wood and put it in the magwell to accomplish the same result as the upper receiver block. Everything else was just standard punches, vise, wrenches and screwdrivers. The MI handguard came with a barrel nut and the wrench to attach it. I know I should have used a torque wrench when doing the barrel nut, but I'm not sure it would have mattered since the gas tube only aligned properly in a specific hole after getting it hand tight. Oh, I did buy an AR field gauge to check the headspace. I know most guys would say you don't need to, and in my case I wouldn't have needed it because it checked out just fine. I figured it's better to be safe than to be sorry though since the barrel and bolt were purchased from separate places. |
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