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Posted: 7/30/2012 3:44:12 AM EDT
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Hey hive,
Found out my cousin's shop does more than build silencers and can pin my fh for me! Yay for not having to send my barrel away. I didn't have a chance to ask if he dimples for gas blocks tho. If he can't, then the question becomes:"do I need it dimpled?" I have a yhm set screw block with 2 screws. Are the dimples just to help align the block or are the important for seating the screws? I really would hate to have to send the thing to Adco just for the dimples...but don't want to buy the jig either. This will be my go to rifle so I want to do it right. |
but don't want to buy the jig either. This will be my go to rifle so I want to do it right.
| I'm not concerned with pinning really, the block sitsfar back under my DD omega x so it shouldn't get bumped. Looks like I'll be dimpling tho. 40 is still to much for a tool I'll only use once. Hopefully the cuz' has a jig or else off it goes I guess...though I'm really going to be frustrated waiting on such a small thing before I can finish this project. |
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Quoted:
I'm not concerned with pinning really, the block sitsfar back under my DD omega x so it shouldn't get bumped. Looks like I'll be dimpling tho. 40 is still to much for a tool I'll only use once. Hopefully the cuz' has a jig or else off it goes I guess...though I'm really going to be frustrated waiting on such a small thing before I can finish this project. Check the EE, somebody might have one they want to get rid of. Also, check your hometown forum and see if anybody has one they'd lend you. I've heard people marking the location with their gas block. Tighten the set screw so it leaves a mark on your barrel and use a drill to put a dimple in it. Not something I would do but I know others who have. |
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I've heard people marking the location with their gas block. Tighten the set screw so it leaves a mark on your barrel and use a drill PRESS to put a dimple in it. Not something I would do but I know others who have.
This is easy if you have ever used a drill press before. I have done it several times. Use a slightly larger bit at first then use the correct size so it makes a "wall" on the inside of the hole instead of just a slanted hole. Go slow and check your depth using a caliper with depth gauge. Measure your barrel wall thickness and know ahead of time how far down you need to drill. I wouldnt go more than 3/4 the way through. Some will even get thier panties in a wad about having exposed metal that will rust or cause your head to explode. I could care less about that, put some oil on it then mount your block. Done. Before you mount your block ensure that you know proper spacing from the barrel shoulder. If it is like an A2 FSB it needs to have a gap to make up for the handguard cap thickness. Others are meant to be all the way up against the shoulder, generally lo pros. Check this using the same caliper as before. |
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How much does it cost to ship a barrel to ADCO and then pay to have the dimple it? How close does that get you to the $40 for the jig? If I need a muzzle device pinned and welded, I'll have ADCO dimple it while it's there. If it's a normal build... I bought the jig. I've used it plenty of times. Way more than enough to justify the $40. |
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The only reason I can see needing a jig is if you are using regular drill bits and a crappy drill press.
Center drills do the job easily and don't tend to want to wander like regular bits when drilling into a rounded surface. ETA: If your cousin's shop has the capability of doing the work you already mentioned, this should be a piece of cake. |
| Well, guess I'll find out if he can or can't soon enough. If indeed he doesn't have the ability for some reason, I now have a few options to consider. Thanks folks. I'd rather leave the job up to people with experience however...last thing I want is to mess up and drill through my barrel the close to finishing |
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Quoted:
This is easy if you have ever used a drill press before. I have done it several times. Use a slightly larger bit at first then use the correct size so it makes a "wall" on the inside of the hole instead of just a slanted hole. Go slow and check your depth using a caliper with depth gauge. Measure your barrel wall thickness and know ahead of time how far down you need to drill. I wouldnt go more than 3/4 the way through. I wouldn't go deeper than about .030........all you want to do is dimple the metal ...................................... |
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You are making it a much bigger deal than it really is. I have dimpled a couple of barrels with nothing more than a hand drill. Dry fit and tighten your screws down so that they leave the exact marks where you need to dimple. Take a center punch and make a mark in the center of the hole. I start off with a really small bit, just barely breaking the surface and only going as deep as the cutting tip of the bit. Work your way up to the depth and width where the tip of the set screw will just sit in when you have tightened the block down. I wind up at a 15/64 bit and the screw tips fit perfectly.
ETA: After looking again, 3/16ths is the bit I wind up with for the small set screws on lopro gas blocks. |
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Quoted: The only reason I can see needing a jig is if you are using regular drill bits and a crappy drill press. The jig is setup as to perfectly align the first dimple exactly 180° from the gas port without measuring, taping, marking or guessing. It's actually a handy tool and well worth the $40, especially if you do multiple barrels for yourself, friends, family, etc. And yes... It is a DIMPLE in the barrel! There is no need to go deeper than the tapered tip of the set screw. |
| Well, the jig would be nice and all, but like I say, I'd probably only use it once. I was mainly curious as to whether the dimples were really necessary. Although I appreciate all the input...would it be wise to dimple the barrel before pinning the fh? The gas block could slide forward but without the jig (assuming they're the same width) I'd imagine it would make it harder to clamp. |
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