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1/5/2012 1:16:59 PM EDT
i'm looking at building an AR.  never have built one, don't know a whole lot about them - as far as whats good and whats bad.

to start with, how are the Palmetto Armory lowers?  they have them for 49.99 right now.
1/5/2012 1:40:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Good as any.
1/5/2012 1:43:52 PM EDT
[#2]
Topic Moved
1/5/2012 2:37:48 PM EDT
[#3]



Quoted:


i'm looking at building an AR.  never have built one, don't know a whole lot about them - as far as whats good and whats bad.



to start with, how are the Palmetto Armory lowers?  they have them for 49.99 right now.


Those are gone



If they get more in I don't know what price they will be



 
1/6/2012 4:46:40 AM EDT
[#4]
if you want to build a good rifle, i would recommend starting with a local purchase of an AR stripped lower. To me its less of a hassle than having to ship and wait and what not and you can find a good AR lower for under 100 bucks. As for the kits PSA kits are more mil spec with 1x7 inch twist barrels and chrome lining options.
I never bought into the the whole chrome lining kool aid ive always ran a chrome moly barrel they dont suffer the accuracy loss as with the lined barrels. the most accurate are stainless barrels but burn out quicker than the aforementioned. chrome moly to me seems to be an acceptable intermediary and is cheaper than chromed lining.  if you want to build more of a DMR type rifle id go with a stainless barrel in .223 wylde chamber with 1x8 twist. if you want a plinker go with chrome moly with 1x7 twist. if you plan on blasting out 10k rounds+ a year id get the chrome lined barrel.

1x7 inch twist is for stablizing heavier bullets while 1x9 inch twist offers more of a range of what you can shoot
1x8 inch twist is the best as it offers the most accuracy of out loads  55-69 grain
the .223 wylde chambering offers tighter chamber tolerances so you can shoot .223 or 5.56 ammunition and get the most of out both loads


heres a list of sites that you can get kits from starting with the cheapest ive found so far

www.delton.com
www.palmettostatearmory.com
www.model1sales.com
www.fultonarmory.com

if you still want to order a stripped lower online www.aimsurplus.com usually has surplus arms lowers for 59.97 and spikes lowers for 80 and custom ones for 90
1/6/2012 5:33:15 AM EDT
[#5]
+1 on buying your stripped lower locally.  
I bought my Yankee Hill Machine stripped lower from my local gun shop for $100 out the door including the $5 backround check fee.  
I purchased my lower kit from Palmetto State Armory.  I got their MOE Plus Lower Parts Kit.  It came with upgraded Magpul grip and trigger guard.  The kit had a quality trigger group that was already very smooth.  
All I did to improve it was to replace the springs with a $10 JPS 3.5 lb kit.
A Magpul CTR stock and tube kit from PSA completed my Lower.
I'm checking out options for a low cost upper now.
1/6/2012 5:35:26 AM EDT
[#6]
i forgot to mention that if you order your lower and your parts kit from the same site they will charge you 11% excise tax for building a new class 1 firearm.
1/6/2012 6:26:33 AM EDT
[#7]
i have a psa lower too. Luckily for me there was a gun show the week after christmas! i went and got a milspec buffer tube, castle but and spring DIRT CHEAP.

anyone have opinoins on the KNS trigger pins? are they a waste of time and money on a semi auto rifle or is there any value added?
1/6/2012 6:31:48 AM EDT
[#8]
its there if you want it..... ive shot 25K+ rounds and never had a pin walk out on me. but it was all in semi auto too
1/6/2012 9:38:37 AM EDT
[#9]
The KNS pins eliminate rotational wear on the pin holes in the lower.
If I had a full auto lower that would be very valuable.
1/6/2012 10:11:30 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
i forgot to mention that if you order your lower and your parts kit from the same site they will charge you 11% excise tax for building a new class 1 firearm.


I believe it is only if you order at the same TIME, i.e. same order number. Just place the order for the lower, to go to your FFL, and a seperate order with parts going to you.
I have ordered lower receivers and lpk from aim before and was not charged anything extra.
1/6/2012 12:46:54 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
i forgot to mention that if you order your lower and your parts kit from the same site they will charge you 11% excise tax for building a new class 1 firearm.


Must of just been where you ordered from. I got both from rainier arms at same time and was not charged anything extra.
1/6/2012 12:50:31 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
1x7 inch twist is for stablizing heavier bullets while 1x9 inch twist offers more of a range of what you can shoot
1x8 inch twist is the best as it offers the most accuracy of out loads  55-69 grain


I thought 1x7 was the best and could shot a wider range of grains.
1/8/2012 6:12:33 AM EDT
[#13]
nope 1x7 is more twist to speed up a heavier bullet, hell the original M16s were 1x12. doesnt make that big of a difference unless your shooting for sub-MOA
1/8/2012 8:27:37 AM EDT
[#14]
Quoted:
nope 1x7 is more twist to speed up a heavier bullet, hell the original M16s were 1x12. doesnt make that big of a difference unless your shooting for sub-MOA


1x7 can shoot higher gn. The military never used a 1x9 twist.
1/8/2012 10:06:22 AM EDT
[#15]
My take:
1x9” twist will not reliably stabilize the heavy bullets or the 70gr TSX.
Some people have posted they can stabilize 75gr OTM in their 1x9” twist barrels; others have not been able to.
1x8” twist will stabilize any bullet 80gr or below with the possible exception of M856 tracer.
1x7” twist will supposedly do anything 80gr or below, but there has been the occasional report of people having trouble with lightweight thin jacket varmint bullets.
Personally I am oriented toward the heavy bullets and I do not use anything lighter than 55gr, so 1x7” or 1x8” work for me.
I tend to use 1x7” in chrome lined barrels and 1x8” in anything else. YMMV
1/8/2012 12:33:25 PM EDT
[#16]
+1 for 1x7 inch twist
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