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Posted: 9/25/2011 12:52:14 PM EDT
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I've taken off some tough ones, but this one is a real pain.
Colt A1 Are the front sight pins tapered, and in the same direction? They don't seem to want to budge either way. 
I'm trying not to scratch it up too bad, but because the barrel is so thin my barrel block will only hold it close to the extension. This is making it spring a little when I hit it, and the punch slips. Thanks kz |
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Quoted: I'm trying not to scratch it up too bad, but because the barrel is so thin my barrel block will only hold it close to the extension. This is making it spring a little when I hit it, and the punch slips. Thanks kz Do not hold it in a barrel block and smack the pins you'll bend the barrel! Soak the pins in some good penetrating oil like kroll. Align the FSB on a FSB block(or other hard block),place on a hard surface(like a concrete floor) and HIT not tap the pin with a stout punch and a hammer. Once you get it broken free use a proper size punch and finish removing the pins. |
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Quoted:
If this is the same barrel with the fouling that is in your other thread you said it was going to ADCO. They can get the FSB off while they're doing whatever else you're having them do. Yep, more $. +, makes me look like a newb. 
I'm gonna try hitting it some more. |
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OK, this thing just wont budge.
I can only hit it so hard. I put duct tape on the punch, over the head of the pin to give me more confidence in the swing, and nothing. If I send this thing to ADCO for a chop job, it's going to have to go out with the FSB attached. 
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Quoted:
I've taken off some tough ones, but this one is a real pain. Colt A1 Are the front sight pins tapered, and in the same direction? They don't seem to want to budge either way. http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l565/urbankz/aff79a96-da20-4923-93fc-cdf5eb632014.jpg I'm trying not to scratch it up too bad, but because the barrel is so thin my barrel block will only hold it close to the extension. This is making it spring a little when I hit it, and the punch slips. Thanks kz Is your barrel is flexing due to being in a barrel block? Do you have the front of the barrel secured on something solid? Get this for best results: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR_15_FRONT_SIGHT_BENCH_BLOCK |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I've taken off some tough ones, but this one is a real pain. Colt A1 Are the front sight pins tapered, and in the same direction? They don't seem to want to budge either way. http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l565/urbankz/aff79a96-da20-4923-93fc-cdf5eb632014.jpg I'm trying not to scratch it up too bad, but because the barrel is so thin my barrel block will only hold it close to the extension. This is making it spring a little when I hit it, and the punch slips. Thanks kz Is your barrel is flexing due to being in a barrel block? Do you have the front of the barrel secured on something solid? Get this for best results: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR_15_FRONT_SIGHT_BENCH_BLOCK No. It's because he's trying to use a barrel block incorrectly. |
| soak it in kroll, get a 2x4, drill a hole almost through it, lay it on/over the hole. Make sure you are using a larger punch than the pins, this will really aid in getting it loose. If your worried about scuffing up the barrel lay a towel or something over the area your afraid to hit. Slam the shit outa that punch with a nice heavy blow. The wood will provide sturdy enough surface to slam, and wont mar the barrel. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I've taken off some tough ones, but this one is a real pain. Colt A1 Are the front sight pins tapered, and in the same direction? They don't seem to want to budge either way. http://i1124.photobucket.com/albums/l565/urbankz/aff79a96-da20-4923-93fc-cdf5eb632014.jpg I'm trying not to scratch it up too bad, but because the barrel is so thin my barrel block will only hold it close to the extension. This is making it spring a little when I hit it, and the punch slips. Thanks kz Is your barrel is flexing due to being in a barrel block? Do you have the front of the barrel secured on something solid? Get this for best results: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=20727/Product/AR_15_FRONT_SIGHT_BENCH_BLOCK I had a stubborn BM that just wouldn't budge. I bought the FS bench block, used a bigger punch, put it on the concrete and gave it a good wack. Worked for me. Of course by that time I had given my FSB some nice "character" with slipping using the smaller punch. Lesson learned. |
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If you don't care about recovering the fsb, then dremel it.
Use a cutter wheel on the dremel and cut from the bottom side of the fsb, directly under the pins. Cut until you reach the channel the pins are running through, then widen the cut. This should release some of the pressure on the pins. From there you should be able to punch them out. Of course this requires cutting off the bayonet lug and sling attachment point first, but it will get the job done. |
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It's not rocket science...
All you need are a hammer, a couple punches, something to use as a back-up block and a SOLID work surface. I can't stress SOLID enough. Such as a the anvil portion of a vise mounted to a heavy workbench or the concrete on the floor of your garage. If you are working on your lap, the kitchen table or a flimsy workbench you run a good chance of just peening the ends of the pins. The taper pins on most but not all FSB's drive out from left to right sighting down the barrel. If in doubt, just measure the ends of the pins. If they are the same they aren't taper pins. Penetrating oil is all but useless in my experience. Unless (A) you have either enough time and oil to soak the thing for a month or (B) the manufacturer did a shitty machining job and there are actually some clearances for the oil to creep into. If you can't get the pins started out within three or four solid blows. STOP. Heat the FSB (stripped, of course) with a torch or simply lay it on one of the burners of your stove. When it is hot try it. (If you see a puff of smoke while heating it, great, someone used locktite on the pins and FSB and it just let go.) Let it cool down and try again. Then heat if necessary. You can also try the opposite, cooling in your freezer. It's the expansion and contraction of the metal that does the trick. I usually use a 5oz. Tack Hammer to drive the pins out. |
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Quoted: Kroll will work it's way into a millionth of an inch clearance over night. I guarantee you it will penetrate into a taper pin ream. (actually Kroll guarantees it too)Penetrating oil is all but useless in my experience. Unless (A) you have either enough time and oil to soak the thing for a month or (B) the manufacturer did a shitty machining job and there are actually some clearances for the oil to creep into. |
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Follow all the advice listed above.
You need to put the FSB on something solid before you try to hit them again.............. If there's any flex or movement, you will never get them out. I've had the best success getting them started on a block of 2x4 on a concrete floor, and I always start them with a larger but stubby punch and a Big ass Hammer. |
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Got it off!!!
Barely scratched the FSB too.
Sorry guys, but I came home from work today determined to get this sucker off. ( spent the day thinking about it) It was a learning experience. (next time I'll be more patient) All of the advice here helped in it's way, for this one, and the ones I'll face in the future. Here's how I got t off. (easy) 1. Cut the FSB with my Dremel until it stopped functioning. 2. Pound with a hammer and large punch. 3. Cut more with a hack saw. 4. Pry 5. Pound and pry some more. (thanks to a shit load of duct tape on all of the above tools, not much was scratched) About 2 hours. (my hack saw blade got dull) ( thanks to the poster that said start cutting) Take a look at those pins.... They don't look tapered too me. ( they don't roll as if they were tapered) I'd play hell trying to hammer them back into the barrel right now with out the FSB. ( they look to be non tapered, and pressed in) Any whey, to those that stepped up to help,,, Thanks kz P.S. Dose anyone know where to get a 0.625 FSB for a barrel like this. Just curious.
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You probably should have been more patient.
ADCO charges $105 to install an FSB with taper pins and, your going to need taper pins now. A new .625 FSB from Brownell's or Midway will run about $28. So, your up to about $133 without shipping. Compare that to less than $50 it would have cost to let ADCO take care of it... I say this because, the FSB is not a drop in part. Each one is unique to it's barrel. They're drilled and reamed together before being pinned. You can't just take one from another barrel and pin it on and have it be a-okay. If you'd saved the old FSB, you could have just put it back on without fuss. Now, if you want to use anything other than a clamp on or a set screw type, you'll need to pony up the cash or hone your gunsmithing skills. 
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