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Posted: 6/1/2011 3:18:53 PM EDT
Can some of you guru's post some links to a low cost trigger for my sons olympic wanna be AR-15. The trigger in it is way too hard for him to pull reasonably. Hes 9 and its got to be 15lbs or more, worse than any trigger ive pulled. The trigger on my FS2000 is less than half the felt resistance. I dont need any thing special just a shooter, no 2 stage for target shooting. Thanks for the insight.  |
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i am gonna try this & a polish on my friends m&p15. he just bought it and its got a horrible trigger. dont know if its because its ma compliant or if this is common s&w issue. http://spinstage.http.internapcdn.net/Spinstage/userdocs/products/p_452000007_1.jpghttp://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=7582/avs|Make_3=AR-15zz1zzM4/Product/AR_15_REDUCED_POWER_SPRING_KIT |
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I did the 15 minute trigger job on both my wife's rifle and my friend's rifle... Freaking Awesome... took it from 8-9 lbs to about 5 lbs with no creep.
polish the hammer surface with 600 wet or dry sandpaper and then grease it. works great! Do Not bend the hammer spring legs back too far! Videos are on youtube |
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Quoted: Bill Springfield's 4 or 5 lb trigger job is $39. Pull the trigger group, send it to him, get it back in a week and be happy. Best trigger going for the price. Or... send it to Bill, have him screw it up so your hammer no longer locks back / sear engagement is so minimal that the hammer slips with the slightest vibration to the FCG causing negligent discharges and have to spend another $40 on a new FCG. YMMV [And yes, this is not heresay, I sent him a trigger 6 mo ago and it no longer locks. A friend of mine sent his in 2 months ago and has yet to hear back, and another friend had a ND- thank god his rifle was pointed in a safe direction...] |
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Yea you view makes sense. However I have no trouble rebuilding an engine in a skidder 1/2 mile in the woods, done it before. So a simple little mod to a 1/8" flat surface is no big deal for any one. This thing is so far past reasonable its crazy. No way is the hammer going to be a safety hazard by me getting it down to a 6lbs. pull. |
| Its not hard to polish a trigger group at all. You can take the lower and place either valve grinding compound or jewlers rough inbetween the hammer and trigger engagement. While holding the hammer pull the trigger, cock it back and repeat 50 or so times. The trigger will get very smooth... I do this with all of my ar's |
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Quoted:
Its not hard to polish a trigger group at all. You can take the lower and place either valve grinding compound or jewlers rough inbetween the hammer and trigger engagement. While holding the hammer pull the trigger, cock it back and repeat 50 or so times. The trigger will get very smooth... I do this with all of my ar's In a pinch this works great for smoothing the trigger, just don't over do it. With the set screw trick and JP springs makes for a nice trigger. |
| If you run the yellow JP springs be prepared to have issues if you run some of the russian ammo. I'd say call JP and order the RED spring kit and installl those. Put some moly grease in the FCG where they touch and go for it. That is what I ended up doing when the yellow springs would give light strikes. Same setup but I also run a JP speed hammer and and happy with the pull and feel. |
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if you do the polishing thing just be careful not to compromise the angle in the triger group and hammer... i have done this with some real fine gunsmith polishing stones... and i did just a real light polish with stones and clp... i have also lightened the pull and shortened the slop by adjusting the springs just a tad.... but you really have to have a good understanding about sear engagment and the right type of stones to do this type of triger job... i dont recomend it if you never done something like this or if you dont have the right type of gunsmithing stones... i dont know about using the sand paper i guess you could use it but i would go with a 1000 grit or even the 1200 grit black sand paper and glue it down to some flat surface like glass and then use it with some clp... be very patiant and work slow and steady and light... take your time and remember just a slight polish...
like i said i dont recomend to a newbee... but it can be done if you have some knowledge and know how... 
i have yet to try the yellow springs but i hear they work... |
| I put the JP springs on one of my rifles with DPMS LPK, was pulling 7lb stock. with the springs it was a 4lb, after about 500rds, I got some light strikes (2) on some hard primered cheap ammo, had no problems with any quality ammo, but I dont like the "click", so I pulled the hammer spring and put the stock spring in, but left the JP on the sear and trigger, it now runs 5 to 5.5lbs and is 100% reliable. Not all Mil-spec springs are equal either. From one to the next makes a full 1lb difference, so I may play with a few standard hammer springs to get my pull down to 4 1/2 to 4 3/4. |
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If you want to simply use a standard LPK trigger, hammer, disconnector arrangement and modify your existing lower receive per this drawing from Superior Arms., you will end-up with a “match trigger.” I’ve done Superior’s mod (by thru tapping my own 10-32 hole w/ adjustment screw) to all my ARs’ and it works great!
http://www.superiorarms.com/ss_trigger.php Lower / Trigger Mod –– PDF Version |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Bill Springfield's 4 or 5 lb trigger job is $39. Pull the trigger group, send it to him, get it back in a week and be happy. Best trigger going for the price. Or... send it to Bill, have him screw it up so your hammer no longer locks back / sear engagement is so minimal that the hammer slips with the slightest vibration to the FCG causing negligent discharges and have to spend another $40 on a new FCG. YMMV [And yes, this is not heresay, I sent him a trigger 6 mo ago and it no longer locks. A friend of mine sent his in 2 months ago and has yet to hear back, and another friend had a ND- thank god his rifle was pointed in a safe direction...] 
This. I have had the same.problem.with numerous.triggers of.his. :( |
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