AR Sponsor
Posted: 3/1/2011 8:10:58 AM EDT
| I just started a toolbox with just tools to be used for building rifles. What tools do you keep for gun use only? |
You will quickly outgrow a single tool box 
I have a few tools used primarily for firearms, but used very little on anything else. Specialty screwdrivers and pliers are a couple of things I don't use open paint can lids. I have a small work area to set aside to work on my guns, this picture only shows some of the stuff; other tools (like revolver gauges, trigger weight, polishing stones, the evil Dremel tool) are stored in cabinets awaiting use when needed. 
Pin punches of various sizes and lengths. Brownells replaceable tip punches are good. Screwdrivers of all kinds. Brownells has a line of screwdrivers that use interchangable tips. You can get tips ground into sizes for your sideplate screws on a revolver and just about any other task. Too many to mention but a proper sized screwdriver is a must to ensure you don't damage your screws. Brass hammer, nylon hammer, etc....to drive pins without bashing dents are scratching stuff. Nylon block (hocky puck) to help hold and position stuff to fit or tap parts in place. Working on your AR-15 can include an action block for barrel/receiver jobs, buttstock wrenches, torque wrench, barrel wrenchs, etc.... Dental picks, tweezers, the list goes on........... If you hit the Brownells and Midway websites for gunsmithing tools,,,,,,,,there is a bunch of stuff that makes jobs easier. Start with basic punches, screwdrivers for your main firearm and the collection of tools will grow as you encounter other issues. 
Of course you need a way to measure your work or check the size of parts. Shown here are two front sight blades being measured......... |
Like a308garand said there are tools that are for a specific purpose (like a 1911 sear jig) and then you have tools you buy that serve multiple purposes (like a good set of tweezers or needle nose pliers). I started out with a decent size tool box for gun tools and cleaning supplies but I soon outgrew that and it basically serves as range box now...
I'll pull a couple of things out I don't need and toss a couple of more things in it I might need and head to the range.... but the majority of my real tools are in and on and above my work desk. 
You are going to find that even with a good sized tool box your going to run out of room quick. |
|
Go for this. The green box on top of the mini fridge is exclusively gun cleaning/ mantenance supplies. All other tools are used for varying degrees of projects to include guns. The reloading table stays the reloading table. For AR rifles you will deffinetly need an armorers wrench, action block for upper and lower recievers, moly grease, torque wrench, punches, dental picks, and all the other stuff mentioned. The white surface on the reloading table is wall panel and an over head LED light, lots of little tiny pieces had been lost before I added that. On the bigger workbench I put a storm window upside down on the bench top. It is clear so you can slide a diagram or whatever underneeth to reference, it has a lip so stuff wont roll off, and the lip is magnetic for holding small metal pieces. Speaking of that, get a Craftsman magnetic bowl to hold all your small parts as you work. Almost everyting in a LPK is magnetic and will save you much distress.
Ensure you have a mini fridge in the close proximity to your work area filled with the frosty brew of your choosing. Dont be this guy. |
|
If for any amount of specificity, I use a PRI 5 pin barrel nut wrench, and a 1/2" drive torque wrench that goes to 150ft-lbs. I usually install barrel nuts to around 50 or 60 ft-lbs depending on the caliber. If you can't find that, the DPMS 3-pin has worked well for me and I got it here.
Upper receiver blocks like the PRI or the Claw will be of benefit to you if you build uppers. I like the PRI because it can double as an picatinny alignment vise when installing rails. If you're putting together delta-ring packs then a pair of expanding-nose pliers will be invaluable. I also keep a good set of punches around for FSB pins. I will be adding a MOACKS––-carrier key staking tool––-and a gas block pinning jig later. |
|
None, which doesn't explain a thing. Everything I used was already purchased to fix cars or lawn mowers
Vice grips, small, curved jaw - to press in roll pins. Saferwhen starting them, much less chance of breaking things or slipping. Drill bits - as pin punches to finish driving them in. Bits offer more sizes, and once dulled, work great. Even new, cheap bits are a better deal. Expanding snap ring pliers - for the delta ring, but it can be rolled on with some effort with vice grips. Barrel nut pliers - 12" channel locks. Bessey vice blocks, but two pieces of wood will do the exact same thing, prevent scratching the upper while tightening the barrel nut. Vice - a block of wood jammed in the upper deckscrewed to something solid would do. Only guns you plan to sell need to be scratch free. That's a commercial assembly standard, and I hope you have the FFL to go with it. For a lot of us, it's just a hobby gun that will be used on ranges and in the field. Very few won't knock, scratch, or even abuse the finish, another hidden scratch on the barrel nut is insignificant. Done right, even the official tool will do that. Buying a number of specialty tools really defeats the whole point of building an AR at home, and definitely can add $150 to the build cost. That is a significant sum of the final cost, and takes away from mags, ammo, optics, etc that are more desireable end game items to own. If assembling itself is the point, then go for it. Don't just stop at barrel lathe, go all out for the hammerforging setup. 
|
AR Sponsor