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1/17/2011 9:13:03 PM EDT
Okay....total noob question, what does the Army M16/M4 Manuel mean by the "Three Times Torquing Method" when installing a barrel? What? You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns? Saw a guy building ARs at a gun show do something like this, but he was doing it so fast I didn't really get to see what he was doing. And he wasn't using a torque wrench. And when I asked him what his method was, he turned out to be a total ASS as he told me if I wasn't buying anything to not bother him with questions, Dick
1/17/2011 10:09:16 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Okay....total noob question, what does the Army M16/M4 Manuel mean by the "Three Times Torquing Method" when installing a barrel? What? You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns? Saw a guy building ARs at a gun show do something like this, but he was doing it so fast I didn't really get to see what he was doing. And he wasn't using a torque wrench. And when I asked him what his method was, he turned out to be a total ASS as he told me if I wasn't buying anything to not bother him with questions, Dick


lol, you must of been at the 1500
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782
1/17/2011 10:22:40 PM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns?

Yes.  Tighten to 30ft/lbs, release, tighten, release, tighten to 30ft/lbs then line up the gas tube hole (not to exceed 80ft/lbs, or repeat).

Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.
1/17/2011 10:45:29 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Okay....total noob question, what does the Army M16/M4 Manuel mean by the "Three Times Torquing Method" when installing a barrel? What? You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns? Saw a guy building ARs at a gun show do something like this, but he was doing it so fast I didn't really get to see what he was doing. And he wasn't using a torque wrench. And when I asked him what his method was, he turned out to be a total ASS as he told me if I wasn't buying anything to not bother him with questions, Dick


lol, you must of been at the 1500
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782


HAHAHAHA. nail on the head! I see you have had the pleasure of the Indy 1500 as well!
1/17/2011 10:50:02 PM EDT
[#4]
Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.


I have Coastal Uniplex Super Hi-temp Hi-pressure grease. It looks more like lithium grease tho (it's white/yellow) But it doesn't say moly on it anywhere.
Should you only use grease that states it is Moly based?
1/17/2011 11:36:18 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.


I have Coastal Uniplex Super Hi-temp Hi-pressure grease. It looks more like lithium grease tho (it's white/yellow) But it doesn't say moly on it anywhere.
Should you only use grease that states it is Moly based?


Just use a high temp grease of your choosing....I used copper based anti-seize.  My barrel nut took about 60 pounds befor the tube lined up....that nut will never come loose!

The three times method is used in many critical parts of machinery..ex:

Building an engine using arp rod bolts...tighten-loosen-tighten-etc...what this does is stretches the bolts and beds in the threads to get a nice contact surface so they won't come loose....same principal for an ar.
1/17/2011 11:43:44 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.

I have Coastal Uniplex Super Hi-temp Hi-pressure grease. It looks more like lithium grease tho (it's white/yellow) But it doesn't say moly on it anywhere.
Should you only use grease that states it is Moly based?

Just use a high temp grease of your choosing....I used copper based anti-seize.  My barrel nut took about 60 pounds befor the tube lined up....that nut will never come loose!

The three times method is used in many critical parts of machinery..ex:

Building an engine using arp rod bolts...tighten-loosen-tighten-etc...what this does is stretches the bolts and beds in the threads to get a nice contact surface so they won't come loose....same principal for an ar.

That's the principle, it's even more important on an AR because of the relatively-soft aluminum of the receiver... the torque/retorque process essentially "beds" the aluminum threads to the steel barrel nut for full contact.
1/18/2011 4:43:32 AM EDT
[#7]
The 1500 is one of the most irritating gun shows I have ever been to!
1/18/2011 6:25:34 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Quoted:
You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns?

Yes.  Tighten to 30ft/lbs, release, tighten, release, tighten to 30ft/lbs then line up the gas tube hole (not to exceed 80ft/lbs, or repeat).

Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.


Liberal amount of grease, Ive sheared index pins while torquing without enough grease.
1/18/2011 6:52:03 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.

I have Coastal Uniplex Super Hi-temp Hi-pressure grease. It looks more like lithium grease tho (it's white/yellow) But it doesn't say moly on it anywhere.
Should you only use grease that states it is Moly based?

Just use a high temp grease of your choosing....I used copper based anti-seize.  My barrel nut took about 60 pounds befor the tube lined up....that nut will never come loose!

The three times method is used in many critical parts of machinery..ex:

Building an engine using arp rod bolts...tighten-loosen-tighten-etc...what this does is stretches the bolts and beds in the threads to get a nice contact surface so they won't come loose....same principal for an ar.

That's the principle, it's even more important on an AR because of the relatively-soft aluminum of the receiver... the torque/retorque process essentially "beds" the aluminum threads to the steel barrel nut for full contact.


Yes and no - while burnishing the threads like that does improve the thread engagement, it's real use is in preventing false torque readings.  A burr or a malformed thread can artificially elevate torque readings, and so you think the joint is tight but it's really not.

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