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Posted: 1/17/2011 9:13:03 PM EDT
Okay....total noob question, what does the Army M16/M4 Manuel mean by the "Three Times Torquing Method" when installing a barrel? What? You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns? Saw a guy building ARs at a gun show do something like this, but he was doing it so fast I didn't really get to see what he was doing. And he wasn't using a torque wrench. And when I asked him what his method was, he turned out to be a total ASS as he told me if I wasn't buying anything to not bother him with questions, Dick
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Okay....total noob question, what does the Army M16/M4 Manuel mean by the "Three Times Torquing Method" when installing a barrel? What? You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns? Saw a guy building ARs at a gun show do something like this, but he was doing it so fast I didn't really get to see what he was doing. And he wasn't using a torque wrench. And when I asked him what his method was, he turned out to be a total ASS as he told me if I wasn't buying anything to not bother him with questions, Dick ![]() lol, you must of been at the 1500
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782 |
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You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns? Yes. Tighten to 30ft/lbs, release, tighten, release, tighten to 30ft/lbs then line up the gas tube hole (not to exceed 80ft/lbs, or repeat). Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right. |
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Okay....total noob question, what does the Army M16/M4 Manuel mean by the "Three Times Torquing Method" when installing a barrel? What? You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns? Saw a guy building ARs at a gun show do something like this, but he was doing it so fast I didn't really get to see what he was doing. And he wasn't using a torque wrench. And when I asked him what his method was, he turned out to be a total ASS as he told me if I wasn't buying anything to not bother him with questions, Dick ![]() lol, you must of been at the 1500
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782 HAHAHAHA. |
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Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.
I have Coastal Uniplex Super Hi-temp Hi-pressure grease. It looks more like lithium grease tho (it's white/yellow) But it doesn't say moly on it anywhere. Should you only use grease that states it is Moly based? |
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Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.
I have Coastal Uniplex Super Hi-temp Hi-pressure grease. It looks more like lithium grease tho (it's white/yellow) But it doesn't say moly on it anywhere. Should you only use grease that states it is Moly based? Just use a high temp grease of your choosing....I used copper based anti-seize. My barrel nut took about 60 pounds befor the tube lined up....that nut will never come loose! The three times method is used in many critical parts of machinery..ex: Building an engine using arp rod bolts...tighten-loosen-tighten-etc...what this does is stretches the bolts and beds in the threads to get a nice contact surface so they won't come loose....same principal for an ar. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.
I have Coastal Uniplex Super Hi-temp Hi-pressure grease. It looks more like lithium grease tho (it's white/yellow) But it doesn't say moly on it anywhere. Should you only use grease that states it is Moly based? Just use a high temp grease of your choosing....I used copper based anti-seize. My barrel nut took about 60 pounds befor the tube lined up....that nut will never come loose! The three times method is used in many critical parts of machinery..ex: Building an engine using arp rod bolts...tighten-loosen-tighten-etc...what this does is stretches the bolts and beds in the threads to get a nice contact surface so they won't come loose....same principal for an ar. That's the principle, it's even more important on an AR because of the relatively-soft aluminum of the receiver... the torque/retorque process essentially "beds" the aluminum threads to the steel barrel nut for full contact. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
You set your torque wrench and crank till the wrench trips? Then back the barrel nut off a little, repeat two more times and tighten till the gas tube hole aligns? Yes. Tighten to 30ft/lbs, release, tighten, release, tighten to 30ft/lbs then line up the gas tube hole (not to exceed 80ft/lbs, or repeat). Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right. Liberal amount of grease, Ive sheared index pins while torquing without enough grease. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Use the correct moly grease or it won't be right.
I have Coastal Uniplex Super Hi-temp Hi-pressure grease. It looks more like lithium grease tho (it's white/yellow) But it doesn't say moly on it anywhere. Should you only use grease that states it is Moly based? Just use a high temp grease of your choosing....I used copper based anti-seize. My barrel nut took about 60 pounds befor the tube lined up....that nut will never come loose! The three times method is used in many critical parts of machinery..ex: Building an engine using arp rod bolts...tighten-loosen-tighten-etc...what this does is stretches the bolts and beds in the threads to get a nice contact surface so they won't come loose....same principal for an ar. That's the principle, it's even more important on an AR because of the relatively-soft aluminum of the receiver... the torque/retorque process essentially "beds" the aluminum threads to the steel barrel nut for full contact. Yes and no - while burnishing the threads like that does improve the thread engagement, it's real use is in preventing false torque readings. A burr or a malformed thread can artificially elevate torque readings, and so you think the joint is tight but it's really not. |
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