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Posted: 1/11/2010 3:51:25 PM EDT
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I recently got a new barrel from BM and it came with a standard gas block that was milled down to be "low profile". Anyways it uses taper pins and I bought low-pro YHM gas block that is much shorter an utilizes set screws. Is there a problem with doing this? There is bare metal showing what should I do? I want to use the YHM gas block, should I paint the exposed portion to protect it?
Here are two pictures to show you... 
Any suggestion or experince would be great. Thanks Ian |
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I would paint from the gas block to the barrel nut with high temp flat black BBQ paint just to be safe. Your rail is gonna cover it anyway. Good luck with your build. Hmm... think you may have missunderstood the question. But yes I will probably throw some high-temp paint just the cover the bare metal, seems like the logical thing to do. ian |
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There is bare metal showing what should I do? Paint it with high-temp paint, or use something like this: BC Bluing Pen |
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If your original FSB was chopped down to low profile.. why would you then go buy a set screw low profile gas block?
You aren't losing any considerable weight on the rifle, just a more likely chance of the set new set screw gas block twisting and your rifle choking up down the road. It's not that the set screws are GOING to fail, but for a $30 part, why take a chance? Nothing is ever going to fit as secure to the barrel as the original chopped FSB. As long as your new FF tube clears the old taper pinned chopped FSB.. put it back on there. Shit.. You've already got a gas block for your next rifle 
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I agree with "unpleasant" about the already cut down FSB being a better option than the set screw, however, I'm guessing there is a problem with the way it was cut down. With the bayo lug remaining on the FSB it won't fit inside the YHM Diamond you are using. To use it you would have to chop the bayo lug off (actually just removing a little off the bottom would work, but if you do that you might as well remove the whole thing.) Also, depending on the length of the rail, the cut off FSB may not fit completely under the rail especially if you want to use the YHM end cap. So, I'm guessing one of these or both is the reason for the short YHM GB.
YHM makes a two band set screw GB that would cover the area. DD and LaRue make them, too. These will only work if the rail is long enough or you are ok with the GB sticking out a little. If you use that one you probably want to dimple one of the set screws (the one closes to the barrel shoulder is easiest, but may not work if the pin channel is directly underneath.) The exposed part is really only cosmetic and simply cleaning the area, taping it off and a apply some high temp black paint will make it look better. Good luck, looks like a nice set up (I saw it in another thread you posted). |
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Quoted:
I agree with "unpleasant" about the already cut down FSB being a better option than the set screw, however, I'm guessing there is a problem with the way it was cut down. With the bayo lug remaining on the FSB it won't fit inside the YHM Diamond you are using. To use it you would have to chop the bayo lug off (actually just removing a little off the bottom would work, but if you do that you might as well remove the whole thing.) Also, depending on the length of the rail, the cut off FSB may not fit completely under the rail especially if you want to use the YHM end cap. So, I'm guessing one of these or both is the reason for the short YHM GB. YHM makes a two band set screw GB that would cover the area. DD and LaRue make them, too. These will only work if the rail is long enough or you are ok with the GB sticking out a little. If you use that one you probably want to dimple one of the set screws (the one closes to the barrel shoulder is easiest, but may not work if the pin channel is directly underneath.) The exposed part is really only cosmetic and simply cleaning the area, taping it off and a apply some high temp black paint will make it look better. Good luck, looks like a nice set up (I saw it in another thread you posted). Got it right on the money, the original fsb gas block was just a little large. I am now considering justt grinding down the bayonet lug on the original block and remove the sling mount. It wont look as good under the handgaurd in my opinion but I'd rather be safe then sorry. Ian |
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It's easy enough to do. If it's a spector length rail it will be plenty long enough to use the end cap. If it's a mid rail it won't be. The end of the cut FSB will be pretty much even with the end of the rail.
If you do chop it and decide to paint it, clean any excess paint out of the pin holes before putting it back on. I did it once and didn't clean out the holes and the excess paint made it a pain to get the pins back in. As far as the look is concerned, you probably won't even notice it once you get it back together. It'll look good regardless of the combination you have and it will be solid, perfectly aligned. It's a fun project, post some pics when you get it finished. Here are some pics to show the length of several combinations. The first one is a spector with a YHM GB that is the same length as a cut down FSB. The second is the mid length with the YHM you have. If it had the cutdown FSB it would end at the edge of the rail.  
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I agree with "unpleasant" about the already cut down FSB being a better option than the set screw, however, I'm guessing there is a problem with the way it was cut down. With the bayo lug remaining on the FSB it won't fit inside the YHM Diamond you are using. To use it you would have to chop the bayo lug off (actually just removing a little off the bottom would work, but if you do that you might as well remove the whole thing.) Also, depending on the length of the rail, the cut off FSB may not fit completely under the rail especially if you want to use the YHM end cap. So, I'm guessing one of these or both is the reason for the short YHM GB. YHM makes a two band set screw GB that would cover the area. DD and LaRue make them, too. These will only work if the rail is long enough or you are ok with the GB sticking out a little. If you use that one you probably want to dimple one of the set screws (the one closes to the barrel shoulder is easiest, but may not work if the pin channel is directly underneath.) The exposed part is really only cosmetic and simply cleaning the area, taping it off and a apply some high temp black paint will make it look better. Good luck, looks like a nice set up (I saw it in another thread you posted). Got it right on the money, the original fsb gas block was just a little large. I am now considering justt grinding down the bayonet lug on the original block and remove the sling mount. It wont look as good under the handgaurd in my opinion but I'd rather be safe then sorry. Ian Are you serious? |
| I'm no expert on whether or not it should be painted but I can tell you with a great deal of certainty that if you paint it you will probably not be able to use the micro gas block because the tolerances are to tight and there are no adjustments to help the fit. I had problems getting mine on without adding thickness to the barrel. |
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I'm no expert on whether or not it should be painted but I can tell you with a great deal of certainty that if you paint it you will probably not be able to use the micro gas block because the tolerances are to tight and there are no adjustments to help the fit. I had problems getting mine on without adding thickness to the barrel. paint it from the gas block back? |
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I'm no expert on whether or not it should be painted but I can tell you with a great deal of certainty that if you paint it you will probably not be able to use the micro gas block because the tolerances are to tight and there are no adjustments to help the fit. I had problems getting mine on without adding thickness to the barrel. Paint after the gas block is in place, and worry about it when you have to take it off. Anyways, looks like I am jsut going to use the factory gas block, and do a little grinding. Thanks for the input guys. Ian |
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