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11/25/2009 5:08:01 PM EDT
how do you guys hold the upper when taking off the flash suppressor? need to perm it and i didn't know what to clamp on to. i had a vise with wood jaws on teh barrel but the barrel would just spin when i tried to twist the FH off.
11/25/2009 5:54:53 PM EDT
[#1]
Put the upper in an upper receiver block. Please don't clamp your barrel in a vice. If you absolutely don't want to get the correct tools - use a strap wrench around the barrel while you break the fh loose
11/25/2009 6:24:25 PM EDT
[#2]
ok ill get a block. any way to do it without it? whats required for welding the FH? 1/4 way around. i dont plan to ever remove it so i dont need to drill and pin
11/25/2009 6:32:56 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
i dont plan to ever remove it so i dont need to drill and pin


I think welding AND pinning need to be done to conform with the law.

11/25/2009 6:56:43 PM EDT
[#4]
You shouldn't use an upper receiver block when removing the flash hider. It's not the proper tool for the job.

You were correct in using the barrel vise. Adding some rosin or other grippy material to your wood jaw vise clamps would help to keep the barrel from spinning.
11/25/2009 6:59:47 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
You shouldn't use an upper receiver block when removing the flash hider. It's not the proper tool for the job.

You were correct in using the barrel vise. Adding some rosin or other grippy material to your wood jaw vise clamps would help to keep the barrel from spinning.




So youre saying that i can torque a barrel down to 75 ft/lbs, but cant install a FH to 10-20. You may want to re-read you armorers manual.
11/25/2009 7:20:21 PM EDT
[#6]
...as per ARMY manual
http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd72/jeepjohn/3-31.jpg
11/25/2009 7:55:54 PM EDT
[#7]
Get a manula that is up to date, the .mil no longer uses "peel washers" the manual i use refers to the weapon as an M4. Whats in the pic is clearly not an M4
11/25/2009 9:44:47 PM EDT
[#8]
no need to get offensive, just pointing out one of the correct methods.  No need to buy a receiver block if he already has a barrel vise, plus with a barrel vise you don't have remove rear sights, optics, etc.
11/25/2009 9:55:18 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Quoted:
You shouldn't use an upper receiver block when removing the flash hider. It's not the proper tool for the job.

You were correct in using the barrel vise. Adding some rosin or other grippy material to your wood jaw vise clamps would help to keep the barrel from spinning.




So youre saying that i can torque a barrel down to 75 ft/lbs, but cant install a FH to 10-20. You may want to re-read you armorers manual.


My armorers manual shows the pic above for flash hider removal and install.

Barrel vise blocks.

So according to the manual they are the proper tool.



11/26/2009 5:43:08 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
You shouldn't use an upper receiver block when removing the flash hider. It's not the proper tool for the job.

You were correct in using the barrel vise. Adding some rosin or other grippy material to your wood jaw vise clamps would help to keep the barrel from spinning.


A  barrel vice would obviously work. I believe if you re-read the OP you will see that he was using a regular vice with wood jaws - this is NOT the proper tool for the job.
11/26/2009 6:45:00 AM EDT
[#11]
I wonder how many of you guys saying "not the proper tool for the job" actually take FH's on and off, repeatedly enough, with a receiver block on multiple rifles every day.

Receiver blocks work just fine and are perfectly acceptable for 99% of all FH jobs.
11/26/2009 6:50:46 AM EDT
[#12]



Get a set of these.





http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=12470/Product/AR_15_M16_BARREL_VISE_JAWS







Trust me you will use the jaws for many applications besides AR15's.





End of thread.



 
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