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Posted: 8/15/2009 10:33:37 AM EDT
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I'm getting set up to put together some uppers, but I've got a quick question.
Is a DPMS "Panther Claw" upper receiver block sufficient for any and all upper work? Rail installs, barrel swaps, etc? These are the white plastic blocks that fit inside the upper and have pins that fit through the takedown and pivot pin holes. I've got one and a vice to fit it, I just thought I'd ask before I started cranking down a barrel nut. It seems solid but it never hurts to ask. |
| I've seen people say that the claw works okay but it wouldn't be my choice. It should be fine if you don't need to go over 50 ft/lbs to get the barrel but aligned and for probably 90% of installs that should work. I've had to go all the way to 80 when installing and I've had to go far over that when removing and there's no way it would be able to handle that. |
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Quoted:
I've seen people say that the claw works okay but it wouldn't be my choice. It should be fine if you don't need to go over 50 ft/lbs to get the barrel but aligned and for probably 90% of installs that should work. I've had to go all the way to 80 when installing and I've had to go far over that when removing and there's no way it would be able to handle that. Where did you get your info? I've had two barrels between 70 and 80 with no problems. |
| I have a DPMS claw and one of the clamshell type blocks. For barrels I have more faith in the clamshell, the claw makes me nervous. I do like and use the claw for everything else, it's easier and doesn't cover up the receiver's rail for lining up free float rails. |
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Quoted:
I don't think they're plastic. I think they're nylon or something. Use one quite often, almost daily. They work great for most upper work, including rails, barrels, etc. They're worth having in the quiver. Nylon would be a type of plastic.... 
I find the claw good for everything except cleaning. I like to mount my upper in the vise when cleaning, and we know the claw blocks the path. So I milled a holding fixture out of a sheet of 3/4" nylon I had laying around. It looks just like the claw, except it doesnt have the center part to brace the upper part of the receiver. |
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Quoted:
I've seen people say that the claw works okay but it wouldn't be my choice. It should be fine if you don't need to go over 50 ft/lbs to get the barrel but aligned and for probably 90% of installs that should work. I've had to go all the way to 80 when installing and I've had to go far over that when removing and there's no way it would be able to handle that. I have literally stood on my wrench using my DPMS Panther Claw to get a barrel loose before. It was WAY over 100 ft-lbs, and no moly was used on the threads (idiot who sold me the upper didn't know what he was doing, obviously). No issues - worked like a charm. It is more than strong enough for normal barrel/FF work. I have had to run one up to right at 80 ft-lbs installing a barrel to get the barrel nut teeth to time right - worked fine. |
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I have one, use it and like it. I don't however use it for anything that requires a significant amount of torque. I have no doubt that it would stand up to heavy abuse. I however am not comfortable with the upper receiver pin holes standing up to the torque that I think the Panther Claw will handle. I've never done it but I believe the upper could be damaged using a Panther Claw and really cranking on it. I use a Clam Shell for heavier jobs and believe it is a better choice for serious loads. I don't believe either the Claw or Clam Shell to be the answer for torquing a muzzle brake. I believe that a barrel vise is best suited for this job and the closer to the end of the barrel the better. Just my 2 cents. YMMV. |
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