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Posted: 8/11/2009 12:56:38 PM EDT
| I have finaly found the time to start my 6.8 build. Stag lower parts in a Sun Devil lower and stoped at the fire control grop. I want to smooth/lighten up the trigger pull. With out sending it off can this be done at home? Any one have a good tutorial? Any help would be great thanks! |
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I had good luck with the JP springs, even with military primers, but as noted above, that is not the universal experience. Bobbing the hammer can help reduce light strikes and for the money it is a not a bad experiment.
You can do some good just by polishing the engagement surfaces. I used a low speed dremel with buffing compound. It will make things smoother, but won't help take up and creep. There's really not much you can do there by yourself. At least not that I would attempt. I know you didn't want to send your parts off, but Bill Springfield will do a great job on your components for only $35, including postage. I think I sent my parts on a Wednesday and got them back the next Monday or Tuesday. That was just a few weeks ago. Best money I ever spent on an AR. The trigger is light years ahead of where it was, even after polishing etc. Take up and creep almost entirely gone and much lighter. |
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Quoted:
dont put the jp yellow springs in it,,, had several fail to fires when i used them,, had to go back to regular springs,,, id go with a rra 2 stage trigger if i had the cash JP yellows are working great for me. I did a home trigger job, bill springfield style. I cut the notch off my hammer to make it a lightweight speed hammer and polished up the contact surfaces. Put a little great on contact points and it was G2G. its really light and smooth now |
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I haven't had much luck with the JP Trigger and / or Hammer Springs, Ignition Failures...
Everyone Loves Bill Springfield's Trigger Jobs. But here's something you can do at home. I use this method to fix triggers and it costs about a dollar: Some disassemble and re assembly required. Remove the hammer and trigger assy's from the lower..Any polishing to be accomplished at contact points can be done now with Semi Chrome Polish ( Found at Auto or Motorcycle Parts Stores) and a Dremel with a small polishing wheel. Caution too much polishing is too much.......Tap the 1/4 x 28 tpi hole for the receiver grip screw the rest of the way through. Put a small amount of Blue Loctite on the threads near the inside of the lower where you just tapped the additional threads. Reassemble the lower. Install a 3/8", 1/4 x 28 stainless set screw to take most the travel out of the trigger. Best way to do this is to cock the hammer and flip the safety to the safe position. Tighten the set screw till the trigger is pushed against safety selector, then back off just a touch so the selector moves freely. Installation of the grip is accomplished with a 3/4" fully threaded, stainless allen head cap screw and the original washer. The trigger pull weight can then be adjusted by trying various hammer springs. In most cases I don't need to change the spring but it's an option. This will eliminate the creep and travel and puts the trigger near the "Break Point". For the FNG's:  Never pull the trigger on a seperated lower without blocking the hammers travel, you may crack the lower in the bolt stop area.
SO-13 |
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Quoted:
I haven't had much luck with the JP Trigger and / or Hammer Springs, Ignition Failures... Everyone Loves Bill Springfield's Trigger Jobs. But here's something you can do at home. I use this method to fix triggers and it costs about a dollar: Some disassemble and re assembly required. Remove the hammer and trigger assy's from the lower..Any polishing to be accomplished at contact points can be done now with Semi Chrome Polish ( Found at Auto or Motorcycle Parts Stores) and a Dremel with a small polishing wheel. Caution too much polishing is too much.......Tap the 1/4 x 28 tpi hole for the receiver grip screw the rest of the way through. Put a small amount of Blue Loctite on the threads near the inside of the lower where you just tapped the additional threads. Reassemble the lower. Install a 3/8", 1/4 x 28 stainless set screw to take most the travel out of the trigger. Best way to do this is to cock the hammer and flip the safety to the safe position. Tighten the set screw till the trigger is pushed against safety selector, then back off just a touch so the selector moves freely. Installation of the grip is accomplished with a 3/4" fully threaded, stainless allen head cap screw and the original washer. The trigger pull weight can then be adjusted by trying various hammer springs. In most cases I don't need to change the spring but it's an option. This will eliminate the creep and travel and puts the trigger near the "Break Point". For the FNG's: Never pull the trigger on a seperated lower without blocking the hammers travel, you may crack the lower in the bolt stop area.
SO-13 Can any polishing media work or does it have to be semichrome? |
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First, make sure the hammer and trigger's pin holes are clean and free of burs. When you assemble them into the lower, put a LITTLE grease (I use Tetra grease) in the pin holes. Now cycle the trigger/hammer combination BY HAND several times and wipe off the grease that has worked its way out. After that, decide whether you need to do anything to the two of them to smooth them out.
FWIW, if I were going to do anything to a hammer and trigger combination, I'd spend the $35 and have Bill Springfield fix 'em up. Hard to beat his track record. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I haven't had much luck with the JP Trigger and / or Hammer Springs, Ignition Failures... Everyone Loves Bill Springfield's Trigger Jobs. But here's something you can do at home. I use this method to fix triggers and it costs about a dollar: Some disassemble and re assembly required. Remove the hammer and trigger assy's from the lower..Any polishing to be accomplished at contact points can be done now with Semi Chrome Polish ( Found at Auto or Motorcycle Parts Stores) and a Dremel with a small polishing wheel. Caution too much polishing is too much.......Tap the 1/4 x 28 tpi hole for the receiver grip screw the rest of the way through. Put a small amount of Blue Loctite on the threads near the inside of the lower where you just tapped the additional threads. Reassemble the lower. Install a 3/8", 1/4 x 28 stainless set screw to take most the travel out of the trigger. Best way to do this is to cock the hammer and flip the safety to the safe position. Tighten the set screw till the trigger is pushed against safety selector, then back off just a touch so the selector moves freely. Installation of the grip is accomplished with a 3/4" fully threaded, stainless allen head cap screw and the original washer. The trigger pull weight can then be adjusted by trying various hammer springs. In most cases I don't need to change the spring but it's an option. This will eliminate the creep and travel and puts the trigger near the "Break Point". For the FNG's: Never pull the trigger on a seperated lower without blocking the hammers travel, you may crack the lower in the bolt stop area.
SO-13 Can any polishing media work or does it have to be semichrome? Most polishing media's work, just don't over do it as it doesn't have to be super polished. I typically use the red and and then white polishing compound that came with my dremel. I too have done this mod more than several times, it works well and adding the JP spring set does make it even nicer. I've never had an issue with ammo not going pop. If by chance you did, JP will usually switch out the hammer spring for their red one for free from what I've read on numerous accounts. |
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More:Here
BTW I polished mine with polishing compound on the wheel and DIRT from the yard, just kept refreshing the wheel with sticky compund and dipping it in Dirt. I was already set up on the kitchen table, my compound had solidified, and the wife would be home in an hour. No time for a hardware store run, so field expedients ruled the day. Worked great though,my trigger surfaces shined up like a mirror! 
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