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Posted: 7/22/2009 6:31:43 PM EDT
| I'm getting the barrel for my 9mm build and just wanted to cover my bases before I put it all together. I remember reading something about "anti-seize" on the receiver threads. What else do I need to know about? |
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I'm getting the barrel for my 9mm build and just wanted to cover my bases before I put it all together. I remember reading something about "anti-seize" on the receiver threads. What else do I need to know about? I bought a pound of axle or wheel bearing grease ( for the Garand ) several years ago , at the local auto parts store . That is what I used for a .223 Rem AR barrel . Smeared it on the barrel extension and where the barrel extension slides insidr the uppet . On the male threads of the upper and the barrel nut ( inside and out . Black nasty stuff that will stain your clothes . When finished , rake a rag and wipe everything dowu , including the inside of the upper . Tighten down to 30 ft-pounds three times & loosen off . Then 30 ft-pounds again . If all the holes / notches line up , you are good to go . If not , keep tighten until they line up ( not to exceed 80 ft-pounds . God bless Wyr |
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I have a tube of Lubrimatic White Lithium grease at home. Is this good or should I just buy the above mentioned stuff? You really want the moly grease. The problem is that after years of shooting the oil in the grease will be pretty much baked out. When you go to remove the barrel nut to replace your shot out barrel, the moly disulphide, which is a dry lubricant, will keep the threads from seizing. Wheel bearing grease may have graphite in it, which os bad for aluminum. BSW Check your hometown forum. I bet there is someone close to you that has the correct grease. It’s not like you need a lot. BSW |
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Don't forget to put anti-seize on the front surface of the threads (flat portion) or you will be sorry. Loctite C5-A. Good stuff. |
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Quoted:
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I have a tube of Lubrimatic White Lithium grease at home. Is this good or should I just buy the above mentioned stuff? You really want the moly grease. The problem is that after years of shooting the oil in the grease will be pretty much baked out. When you go to remove the barrel nut to replace your shot out barrel, the moly disulphide, which is a dry lubricant, will keep the threads from seizing. Wheel bearing grease may have graphite in it, which os bad for aluminum. BSW Check your hometown forum. I bet there is someone close to you that has the correct grease. It’s not like you need a lot. BSW Forgot to include ; The pound of grease I bought several years ago, at O'Rileys or Auto Zone , is molly grease . Black nasty stuff , WILL stain your clothes . It is not graphite ( unless the label lied to me ) . God bless Wyr |
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The product description says it contains graphite. Graphite can corrode aluminum if it gets wet, which is why I wouldn't use it on M16 barrel nuts. Should be a good anti-seize if all the parts are steel or stainless steel. BSW |
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The product description says it contains graphite. Graphite can corrode aluminum if it gets wet, which is why I wouldn't use it on M16 barrel nuts. Should be a good anti-seize if all the parts are steel or stainless steel. BSW Thanks for the info Brian... I'll try something different. [edit] I just remembered that I have a tube of Tetra Gun Grease. It is a fluoropolymer based grease. One of the bullet points on the tube reads "prevents part seizure", but it doesn't discuss high temperature applications. I'm guessing this isn't a good product for this use... any thoughts? I'll probably just head out to autozone and pick up whatever moly based grease they have on hand... I've never seen never-seize there.[/edit] |
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