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Posted: 6/23/2009 3:02:24 PM EDT
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Well I read and reread the how to remove FSB's but this one is being a pain in the a$$. Im using some clp for lube, Brass punch, and my 8 oz brass hammer. Do I need to bring out a bigger hammer? From what I have read you punch left side looking down the barrel to the right side. Might have to pull out the calipers and make shore the left side is smaller then the right. Would suck if im punching them the wrong way.
If there is any other trick that would make this go easyer please let me know and also what paint do you use to retuch up them tapper tines do you use after pownding on them? |
| Well hard serface is the shop floor. Im using 2x4 for suport. CLP and have tried wd40 for oil's. Brass punch that is 1/4 of a inch and now has a dempal from hitting the pin. Hammer is a normal around the house hammer, i stopped using the brass hammer. So the next step get a bigger hammer, looking at getting a 3lb hammer tomarrow if I dont just brake down and go to the smith. Now what is the best way to aply heat. i assume that your talking more heat then a blow drier can put out. but not so much that it tempers the barrel. |
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Quoted:
 Ok I failed!!! Give me my "F" for the class on removing the FSB. Damn those tapper pin's are in there tight. Think I might have to take it to a smith to remove them and I will ask that I watch how its done right.I'm with you on this. I failed to remove the pins on my CMMG barrel. My punches were bending and the pins never moved. I used penetrating oil, a big hammer, and a solid surface. Eventually I F'd up the pins and FSB enough that I drilled out the pins and cut the FSB off. I went with a low pro gas block and a 9 inch rail to cover. |
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For future reference, the tricks are: Being sure of the direction before you start. Supporting the work properly on a sturdy surface. Use a gas block holder, and don't work in your lap.  Use a proper diameter punch. An undersized punch will mushroom the taper pin. Sears sells a punch holder. It looks like a screwdriver handle with a clamp on the end. It eases the fear that you'll whach the shit out of your hand, and the punch wont ping across the room and nail itself into the sheet rock. As stated before: Whack the shit out of it. If you try to be gentle with it and act like you're driving a finish nail, the pin will act like a rivet having the head peened into a mushroom, and it'll just get tighter. Quoted: Quoted: Ok I failed!!! Give me my "F" for the class on removing the FSB. Damn those tapper pin's are in there tight. Think I might have to take it to a smith to remove them and I will ask that I watch how its done right.I'm with you on this. I failed to remove the pins on my CMMG barrel. My punches were bending and the pins never moved. I used penetrating oil, a big hammer, and a solid surface. Eventually I F'd up the pins and FSB enough that I drilled out the pins and cut the FSB off. I went with a low pro gas block and a 9 inch rail to cover. |
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